22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I had no idea Mel's Heritage was now grown in Baden-baden. That's news to me. I didn't know the rose had found its way to Europe at all! I have no idea if anyone sells it in Europe. I've been completely out of touch with what nurseries are doing for the past four years, since I no longer do any work with roses. Good luck in your search. I'm afraid I'm not going to be of much help.
Lemongrass? Really! :) Mine (new bare root) smells faintly so far - but it's sweet. Hopefully yours will straighten out and smell right - that is unless you love the smell of lemon grass. :)
I like the banana smell that Acapella has. Smells exactly like those banana candy marshmallowy things..
Carol
2013
Dang, you had to spray your antiques? HMs? Polyanthas? Wow. I just live with the defoliated Austins...love them too much. But I don't have your winters, that's for sure.
So what else is looking good up there?
Ivor's Rose (now Flamenco Rosita) is bulletproof here. Nary a spot....ever....Clotilde Soupert...
I agree with Ingrid, roses worth growing do not include poisoning the planet and its inhabitants.
Susan
I have 2 Ivor's Rose they are planted in two completely separate places. They are in their first years and quite rambunctious. Boy they grow fast. Right now both have mildew that I hope is because they have outgrown their roots. No spots of any sort on them. Thank you for the comment it is appreciated.
Wow. What about the miticides? How do they affect the roses, insects, soil, etc and how often would they have to be sprayed?
When are the mites most active.....if it only takes an hour...I agree with Ann...terribly sad.
Seems there still is not a way to PREVENT....
Susan
Thank you Patty i greatly aporeciate you have noticed me and answered my dillema.im in zone 8b texas houston very humid extremely hot. My roses mostly in pots apart from a few climbers in garden. Rosanna is going to be substitution for another climber i dont really like but i agree with you that climbers need a few years to reach their full potential.again thank you and happy gardening Patty!!!
I'd move them indoors during the winter months just like my potted Jasmines & orchids. Ylang Ylang is a fat tree (pretty wide), I might have to trim them narrow, so they can fit inside. There is also another fragrant tree I tried in the past-michaela alba tree, it's very hard to grow in a colder zone, but I heard In CA, you can find it cheap at China Town market for about $20-25 for a good sized michaela alba. It cost me $75 for a 1' tall baby tree shipped from FL, and it was gone after 2 months. I should get a bottle perfume instead. :-) One bloom of michaela alba can prefume a whole room.........but that empty dream cost me $75. I could use another pair of red shoes. Love red shoes! I love rose fragrance, but it's very light in my garden, I thought if I mixed in with trees fragrance in the rose garden, it just like I dropped a bottle of prefume! :-)
My Pretty Lady rose behaves the same way BraveRichard's does! His climate is similar to mine, probably. I waited until a few weeks ago to move it from the 15 gallon pot to the permanent place in the ground. I was really pleased with how much it bloomed in the pot in the shadehouse. I kind of wish I had called Brecks to tell them about the 2 roses that didn't leaf out, but I was thinking I got such a good deal on them all, and the rest did so well, that I would call 80% survival a success overall. Pretty Lady is a rose I would buy again, at full price.
She has black spot here also, not bad but it is there. She's also been threatening powdery mildew. We have not had rain since the second week in June. If we get rain when the cooler temps come next week and the mildew or BS explodes on her. It will be sad but I shall report on it. My spot where she planted is the same. Right now she is way to large to place elsewhere unless she is going to bloom up a storm again.
Kingcobb please help with advise on your LoS. I have a post on here now about my LoS. Is yours grafted or own root? What are you doing that is so successful? How much sun does she get? I know this is a lot to ask of you. But if you have the time I surely would appreciate your wisdom. Lady of Shallot is kind of driving me nuts.
Hi Garcanad - sounds like you've done your homework before this project started, and your supports are indeed sturdy and sunk in concrete. I'm presuming that most of the new consideration roses are for the shorter shrubs, since only a few of these climb. I haven't grown all of these (yet), but all but one or two at least have been in my yard at one point or another.
Bad news first - there's not much chance that Paul's Himalayan Musk or Swan Lake will survive in your zone, and I've had terribly bad luck with Black Lady even in a protected spot. I can grow a lot of hybrid musks without problem in my zone 5, but PHM has not been very forgiving. Swan Lake on two or three tries hasn't survived the winters. A better white climber would be White Cap or White Dawn, though neither is very prolific for me.
The only other possible climbers on your list (I don't know Crimson Cascade) would be A Shropshire lad and Lavender Lassie. Lavender Lassie has survived well in a rotten spot in the yard, but it's part shade so it doesn't bloom much. It's not cane hardy in my winters, so it only regrows to about 5-6' for me, so keep that in mind. Since you mention not liking pink, mine is mostly a vaguely orchid pink, mostly looking pink to my eyes. A Shropshire Lad also tends toward the pink side, or apricot pink, and I've only just gotten one to survive this year. No info about whether it's cane hardy, but it has a good odds for being so as most of the Austins are hardy more or less for me. It doesn't have a great reputation as a rebloomer. A more reliably peach colored Austin that gets about as tall for me is Carding Mill (topping out at about 6' most years).
Beyond that, I expect your hardiest and most reliable shrubbier rose will be Dark Desire. Since it's new this year, I can't speak from experience, but it's a Kordes rose and reputed to be nicely hardy. I really like the dark coloring of this one. Barkarole is a nice dark red, but I only got mine to survive by planting it in the zone 6 pocket of my yard. Kardinal Kolorscape or Archbishop Desmond Tutu are both hardier dark reds in a similar color scheme. BTW, AC Navy Lady is supposed to be about 2-3' high but it's putting out massive long floppy canes sideways and looks to want to climb - this is one of my darkest reds in my yard. White Licorice is also a bit tender for me and didn't survive a normal zone 5 winter. I do have one replanted in a more protected spot this year. Better and hardier white shrubs are Polarstern, Bolero, Snowdrift, or Paloma Blanca. Monte Carlo Country Club is new to me for next year and will get a protected spot (and I anticipate it will need it). I've had poor hardiness responses from the Adam roses.
Hope that helps - your results may differ, so don't take any of this as a given, and experimenting is always part of the fun.
Cynthia
Cynthia, Thank you very much for sharing so much of your experience, and effort to write them out. All the info you provided are useful to me.
I checked out all the suggestions you made in the last post. I can only source some of them in Canada. I would definitely want a 'Quadra'. Some of the Explore rose are noted as 'occasional repeater; not encouraging.
It is too bad that many in my tentative list are not reliably hardy. I based these selection on Hortico's and Palatine's info. I live a short distance away from Hortico. Its catalog lists Paul's Himalayan Musk as Zone 4 and Swan Lake as zone 5. I may try them once since the spots for them are well protected. The two white alternatives you suggested are not available here. AC Navy Lady was dropped from my list when I realized that I have too many red on it. With your comment, I will add it to my list again (the curse of 'I want it'). Most of the white shrub alternatives are not available here. I choose White Licorice partly because it is described as 'continuous bloomer and very fragrant'. For roses, I think I start to forgive the very pale pink roses for being pink since I need them for contrast. I was intrigued/inspired by a picture showing a pillar with a combination of light mauve climbing rose and dark purple clematis. For next year's projects, I am thinking of experimenting with a group of three pillars red/pale pink-peach combination and 2 pillars of pale mauve/dark purple combination. The possible combinations for the 3 pillars are: Rosa Night Owl with Clematis Violet Elizabeth, Rosa A Shrophire Lad with Clematis Kermesina, Rosa Crimson Cascade with Clematis purpurea plena elegans. Possible combinations for 2 pillars are: Rosa Lavender Lassie with Clematis Romantika, Rosa Stormy Weather (can't get 'Purple Splash' here) with Clematis Veronica's Choice. White Licorice, Barkarole and Dark Desire are supposed to join a group (Twilight Zone, Munstead Wood, and Windermere) I planted this year. I have a feeling that they may be too red and not dark enough to join.
Thanks again to everyone, I've enjoyed reading the links that were shared and the advice you have all given. I'm glad to know compost is still ok.
A lot of my roses didn't pose any pruning questions for me both winters knocked them completely to the ground. The only survivors were my own root roses. I grow pretty vigorous roses mainly antiques and austins and a few oddballs thrown in and most of them bounced back although a few didn't make it. A lot of my plants showed the yellowing leaf margins and a generally chlorotic look this year. On a whim I added some Epsom salts(even though I had been told we didn't need extra magnesium here by other local gardeners, not sure how they got that conclusion) to my normal fish emulsion and I saw such a huge improvement. They started pushing new growth, healthy leaves, bigger more vividly colored blooms and a much stronger fragrance. So those results along with the yellowing leaves prompted me to get a soil test done. Thanks to everyone who helped me understand the results better and gave me pointers I really do appreciate it!!!
grave e
A single dead cane may have been bored by a larva of the raspberry horntail sawfly or something similar. See if it's hollow and full of worm poop. Try to locate and kill the worm. The early symptom of this is tips wilting in July.
My 'Aloha' didn't react well to being cut back, but yours will recover. Standard pruning of climbers is to remove 1/3 or 1/4 of the oldest canes at the base every year, to encourage new canes from the base.
Marlorena's advice is good.
My first thought was what Michael said, borers. Another though is how are the canes tied to the trellis? I know I've lost canes that I had tied too tightly to the support or that I injured or bent trying to get them on the support. You really have to be careful about how you train them.
You don't say where you live or what zone you're in. If you are in a cold zone you should not prune any roses in the fall. You want to wait until spring to see how much survives over the winter before you do any pruning. Besides that you really don't want to prune climbers much anyway or they won't ever climb for you.
Hey Buford, if the ending of your user name is where you are and your zone then we are very close. I'm in NE Arkansas, zone 7A. I'm a transplant from Western Washington, zone wet and soggy (don't know the zone number). I've never planted a rose in the fall but around here it doesn't seem like a bad idea. I'm looking for a climber right now, to grow with my clematis so I may go ahead and buy Amadeus from them. Their prices seem to be pretty reasonable.
Yes, then multifloria would work for you. I know people in California can't grow multiflora because their soil is very alkaline.