22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I can relate to changing taste in roses. However, instead of changing taste, I would say that I am "expanding my rosey horizon". I will always love the perfect and formal flower of the HT. However over the years, I am warming up to a lot of old garden roses especially D.A. roses as I like their informality. Lately, due to this forum and the influence of fellow posters, I am beginning to warm up to single flower roses.
I think the changes in my taste in roses reflect the changes in my life as I get older. I realized I prefer simple and non-fussy, perhaps less formality in my life. I used to love very formal gardens but I love the informal, cottage type of gardens now. I now prefer the "natural" look instead of the formal enforced garden style.
K&M Nursery isn't bare root but it may be your only good source for Crystalline. I know I'll be getting 4 this coming spring. All of their roses are on fortuniana root stock. You shouldn't have any trouble with this root stock. I live in zone 7 and over half of my garden is on fortuniana root stock. K&M has a nice web site and a great selection of roses. I also order from Edmunds, Palatine and Wisconsin Roses. I get own root roses from Roses Unlimited.
For the sake of argument, that picture doesn't necessarily mean the rose is taking root very well (although I'm sure it actually is!): I once thought I had a rose cutting rooting well because it grew a whole set of leaves within about three weeks. But then it started dying and I looked and it hadn't rooted at all! I think all the growth was just from whatever it had stored in the cutting, and it had just used up what it had and gave out!
I am of the "bigger is better" school, so all I do to our climbing Ice Berg is tie up the long laterals to the arch it is on, or to the house, depending. It has made it up one side of the arch (which is about 8 feet tall and 6 feet wide), over the entire top of the arch, and it now growing up the side of the house. Total height about 12 feet, along with several feet of horizontal growth. But, that is just me - I love to let roses get big.
Yours is gorgeous - I would just keep doing what you are doing.
Jackie
^ actually wait, I take that back...that's a contentious thing to say, even if I'm joking :)
One of the coolest surgeries I read about recently was about leprosy: people with leprosy don't have good pain receptors, and a tiny bit of pain from our eyes drying out is what signals us to blink, so people with leprosy can tend to never blink and therefore go blind.
A missionary surgeon a read about thought to tunnel a piece of chewing muscle up patients' cheeks and onto their eyelids, such that as long as they chewed gum, they retained their sight. Cool, huh?
I've worked with surgeons all my adult life and they are usually very confident and focused individuals and that sometimes can be construed as cocky. That being said some are just plain arrogant and A-holes and some are very nice and caring towards their patients.
Hi
@Ingrid-my yarden is a huge mess right now. My soil is sandy, so I am trying to amend the soil by digging holes and dumping kitchen scrap/grass clipping. On top of that, I have a huge mound of soil from the holes that I dont know what to do with.The good news is that I found a place where I can get horse manure..Yay! Will post picture when the yarden(yard/garden) is more "presentable"
@thonotorose-I am right behind Disney World, so close that we can see the fireworks and hear the booming noise .
@msdorkgirl-I too use too much fertilizer! It is hard to gauge how much to give and how often when it keeps raining on and off. Right now I am experimenting with alfalfa, cracked corn, molasses etc..I spray only when I cannot stand to look at the BS anymore. Right now I am trying out Kirk"s castille soap for BS.
Here is another pic..i.I love having what I call "a living bouquet": combination of roses and short growing,everflowering perennial because roses in my yarden dont bloom like those in cooler area, plus the blooms dont last long. The perennials keeps the yarden colorful when the roses are resting.
I haven't settled on where I'll be living so everything is in pots--- I'm not sure how long we'll be in this location either, so I can only dream that someday I can put together a living bouquet too.
How are your David Austins/English roses doing in Florida? What do you find is most helpful? I imagine Florida has similar weather to Hawaii, but the one English rose we have in the Urban Garden Center produces two inch Crocus Roses only so that made me think that they're not good in 300 day bright sun :(
Hi Seil,
You were ahead of me this year. I hope you have an easier winter for your roses than last year.
I finished mine yesterday. Same as last year, pots in the unheated cold room, plants in the garden wrapped in straw and then covered with light recycling bags. I had the best cold climate rose garden, with the most cane survival ever last year, so we shall see if my unorthodox method works as well this year.
We got our Christmas tree today and will decorate tomorrow. Gardening done till late March now. Just cyber roses for the next few months.
Cheers, Rick
'Westerland' isn't a Rambler. It's best described as a big shrub which can be planted against a wall or fence and somewhat trained as a climber. Many modern roses called "climbers" are really just long-caned HTs, Floribundas, or Shrubs. They can be trained to fan-out on a trellis, but can also grow as free-standing shrubs. Ramblers have more flexible canes which can more easily be wrapped around things. See pictures of it on HelpMeFind to see how mature specimens look.
:-)
~Christopher
Here is a link that might be useful: 'Westerland' at HelpMeFind
If you want Westerland to grow along your fence, just let the new shoots grow until they get as long as they are going to get, and have hardened off a bit, so they are not fragile. Then I would tie them horizontally along the fence. By all means look at the "training a climbing rose" link above and watch Paul Zimmerman's video.
Christopher is correct, of course - this rose is a climber (or shrub if you want to prune it to be just a bush), not a rambler. This is good if you want your rose to bloom all spring and summer and fall - that is what this one should do in your warm climate. Ramblers only bloom once in the Spring.
I would never remove new, healthy cane shoots on a baby rose - just let it grow for a year or two. Then you will have enough rose to begin training and pruning it. The advice you read that some people remove "buds" refers to flower buds, not new canes. From the looks of your rose, it is healthy and growing well, so I personally I would not remove any flower buds either - I only do that on very tiny, new fragile roses (the ones that are 6-10 inches tall).
Good luck with your rose - it is going to be so beautiful!
Jackie
Bart ...
I have clay and silt with the rocks in my gardening area, which does hold moisture. If you have more sand particles between the rocks, the water may be draining too fast. I don't know.
I did a perk test on each rose hole to determine how fast the rose hole drained. The books say that it should drain completely within a couple of hours, but a rose friend told me that if it drained overnight, the rose would be fine. Turns out she was right.
As I said above, I have perfect drainage. It can rain hard for days and there are no puddles, so I know the water is passing through and I don't have to deal with root rot. I think that happens because of all of the rocks !
I don't put any organic material or manures in my rose holes, but just use the native soil along with all of the small rocks and put the amendments on top because the feeder roots of a rose can be found in the top 10 inches ... of course, it depends on the rose.
If you have sandy soil where the drainage is too fast, someone else who has experience with that kind of soil can give you better advice than I can because I have not gardened in that kind of soil.
After a couple of years of just mulching on top, I found a lot of earth worms in the soil where there had been none when I started. Last year, when I planted bulbs in the same beds where I couldn't dig with a shovel when I first planted my roses, after years of mulching, I could dig easily with a hand trowel.
You've said you are uncomfortable with container gardening. I am too, especially since I garden in an area where there are high summer temps all season long. However, I have found that if I plant a rose with a larger and healthy root mass, the rose takes off faster and seems to be able to handle the stress of high temps and the colder winter temps. So, I do grow the roses in containers until they have a healthy root mass before planting them in the ground.
I think, with less than good soil, starting plants with a good root mass is one of the primary keys to success.
Smiles,
Lyn
Looking at Clbg. Mrs. Sam yesterday, I'm thinking seriously to sp.It's just one cane,about a foot high, and now even that looks like it's dying.Perhaps a combination of being moved too many times, of never having had good conditions,and of being kind of a "miffy" rose to begin with...and I seem to remember I DID start that one in a pot,so it may well just be time for The Shovel,at least for that one.
I feel rather silly not realizing what it was now that I have pulled it out of the "grow-up" zone. It was lost in the foliage of the other roses and other than it falling over when it bloomed I did not pay any attention, just thought it was moms friends cutting and did not think about it more.
TO: Tuderte
I read about people using sand ... would that be like Coral Sand that you can buy at a home improvement store? Or can I use beach sand?
TO: seil
I have the opposite problem, in that in winter it doesn't get below 60 deg here to induce dormancy and allow for slow root development.
I used to do the bottle method but I have like 20 cuttings so I am going to try a plastic translucent bin --- would the humidity thing with pebbles and water work in that scenario? I'm also going to try (and probably fail) the burrito method. I don't think the burrito will work because the cuttings don't have enough food in them to survive the week/two weeks without any nutrients.
I was also just on amazon checking on grow light information --- what wattage fluorescent are you using? How many inches from the actual plant does the lamp have to be?
I attempt to do stem cutting propagations using the bottle method and want to up my success rate of 5% to at least 10%, so am really considering trying artificial light.
TO: Jesse09
Wow, HB-101 is pretty pricey, is it worth it really? What have you found it to do? How is it different/the same to Superthrive?
ps: let me know if you want me to remove that photo because it is so large ..... it might slow down this thread.
this link might help with file sizes: (i'm still trying to figure it out).
http://ths.gardenweb.com/forums/load/photo/msg0215473631213.html
this photo (again please tell me to remove) was reduced in PAINT to 19.9 kb, I reduced the horizontal pixels to 200 and maintained aspect ratio.
i'm not sure how this helps you because we're probably not using the same programs...so first of all which program are you using?
I think according to that link using photobucket is helpful so you can re size before you post.
hmm edit ...I just saw the photo in the preview and I have the same problem as you seem to have....
when I view it on my computer the photo is at least half that size ... 1.5 inches x 1 inch.... but very sharp and clear.... now it is 5 times the size and blurry.
Hehe, I'm kind of glad I'm not the only one who has issues wit the posting of clear pictures :)
Thank you for looking that info on the leaves for me .. but bronze tipped young leaves they are not so maybe something is wrong with it. There's some buds that came along with the new growth so I'm going to wait and see if there's a difference in one of the old blooms versus a bloom from the slimy leaves.