22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Bart ...
I have clay and silt with the rocks in my gardening area, which does hold moisture. If you have more sand particles between the rocks, the water may be draining too fast. I don't know.
I did a perk test on each rose hole to determine how fast the rose hole drained. The books say that it should drain completely within a couple of hours, but a rose friend told me that if it drained overnight, the rose would be fine. Turns out she was right.
As I said above, I have perfect drainage. It can rain hard for days and there are no puddles, so I know the water is passing through and I don't have to deal with root rot. I think that happens because of all of the rocks !
I don't put any organic material or manures in my rose holes, but just use the native soil along with all of the small rocks and put the amendments on top because the feeder roots of a rose can be found in the top 10 inches ... of course, it depends on the rose.
If you have sandy soil where the drainage is too fast, someone else who has experience with that kind of soil can give you better advice than I can because I have not gardened in that kind of soil.
After a couple of years of just mulching on top, I found a lot of earth worms in the soil where there had been none when I started. Last year, when I planted bulbs in the same beds where I couldn't dig with a shovel when I first planted my roses, after years of mulching, I could dig easily with a hand trowel.
You've said you are uncomfortable with container gardening. I am too, especially since I garden in an area where there are high summer temps all season long. However, I have found that if I plant a rose with a larger and healthy root mass, the rose takes off faster and seems to be able to handle the stress of high temps and the colder winter temps. So, I do grow the roses in containers until they have a healthy root mass before planting them in the ground.
I think, with less than good soil, starting plants with a good root mass is one of the primary keys to success.
Smiles,
Lyn
Looking at Clbg. Mrs. Sam yesterday, I'm thinking seriously to sp.It's just one cane,about a foot high, and now even that looks like it's dying.Perhaps a combination of being moved too many times, of never having had good conditions,and of being kind of a "miffy" rose to begin with...and I seem to remember I DID start that one in a pot,so it may well just be time for The Shovel,at least for that one.
I feel rather silly not realizing what it was now that I have pulled it out of the "grow-up" zone. It was lost in the foliage of the other roses and other than it falling over when it bloomed I did not pay any attention, just thought it was moms friends cutting and did not think about it more.
TO: Tuderte
I read about people using sand ... would that be like Coral Sand that you can buy at a home improvement store? Or can I use beach sand?
TO: seil
I have the opposite problem, in that in winter it doesn't get below 60 deg here to induce dormancy and allow for slow root development.
I used to do the bottle method but I have like 20 cuttings so I am going to try a plastic translucent bin --- would the humidity thing with pebbles and water work in that scenario? I'm also going to try (and probably fail) the burrito method. I don't think the burrito will work because the cuttings don't have enough food in them to survive the week/two weeks without any nutrients.
I was also just on amazon checking on grow light information --- what wattage fluorescent are you using? How many inches from the actual plant does the lamp have to be?
I attempt to do stem cutting propagations using the bottle method and want to up my success rate of 5% to at least 10%, so am really considering trying artificial light.
TO: Jesse09
Wow, HB-101 is pretty pricey, is it worth it really? What have you found it to do? How is it different/the same to Superthrive?
'Chinatown' smells deliciously of peaches, and very strongly. It opens a strong yellow and fades toward light pink in the sun. Sometimes described as resistant to blackspot, it was fairly susceptible for me. Mine was own-root and plenty vigorous, unless you want a full sized climber. Growth was upright with fairly stiff 7' basals, not particularly full for me, but I was trying to grow it as a climber. Should make a good large shrub with the right pruning.
Just looking at grandiflora Heart of Gold/Heart O' Gold & thought of you. If what you really want is Gold Medal with fragrance, this may be your rose. Broadway x Gold Medal
Here is a link that might be useful: Heart O' Gold
This post was edited by vasue on Thu, Dec 4, 14 at 14:15
Sorry, duplicated.
Braverichard
For sure, the new growth is sucker from the original rootstock Dr Huey.
I never have had experience or trouble with the rose under freezing temperature. Because I live in the one of the hottest region in the world. We suffered from the heat, but this happens for everywhere.
Your rose had been cared very good and healthy, nice cane. For me, I would use the healthy new sucker to graft with other favorite varieties on it, it will award you with bloom in just few weeks when the weather is warm enough and a lot of fun!
The T-budding, Chip Budding and Cleft grafting do good to success.
This post was edited by gardentiller on Thu, Dec 4, 14 at 13:40
I had a knockout rose do that two years ago. the canes look really brown like my did. I went ahead and dug my up and got rid of it. It was five years old when it happened. I pull the rose shrub out with no problem so maybe the roots were already dead. just to be safe see what happens over the rest of the winter and see if it puts out new canes at the bottom next spring if it does not get rid of it.
I would go ahead and do it now. In your zone I don't think it would be a big problem. Temps would have to get down to about 28 degrees for the rose to be damaged. If your roses don't go completely dormant during the winter than you should be able to re-pot it at any time. The biggest thing you need to do is keep the existing root ball intact when you transplant it. If you keep it intact and just move it into a bigger pot with more soil it should go on with out any problem.
Corona makes a Felco clone of good quality and a Felco clone of not so good quality. The good one is very good. I have both Felcos and the Corona version. I have a long pole pruner to deadhead the big climbing roses. That really comes in handy.
Really handy is the little sharpener Corona makes that works well on the bypass blades. Sharp clean cuts every time. Some 0000 steel wool and oil to clean the blades keeps them like new.
The West Country gauntlet rose gloves have been very durable. They are made out of some sort of synthetic fabric that has been very tough and protective, and can be machine-washed. I can destroy a pair of quality garden gloves in a week, but these have held up for over a year, a record for me.
We bought our original bypass Felco pruners (and loppers in two sizes) in 1987-1988. We still have them, and with careful hand-sharpening when needed, we still have the original blades.
(Yes, the blades ARE replaceable. Ours have not needed replacement.)
You're more likely to have a few canes with hard pruning than not, as has been pointed out stem tissue reduction reduces ability to grow back afterward. In fact, a British study showed that shearing bush roses like a hedge resulted in increased flower production over the beloved "opening up of the center". But if you think what is being done at the park is to your taste then by all means go for it.
My only other comment is that I would not assume that what I saw happening at a public park was always the result of someone there being in the know. The fact that so many public parks continue to undertake things like formal bedding out of flowering plants in the first place shows that the thinking involved has often not changed in a very long time. Tradition and routine can be a big part of the culture in such settings.
And pressure to keep things the same can come from outside, as well as within a parks organization. For instance, the testing-of-the-waters changing of one set of hanging flower baskets on the downtown streets here to harmonious pastels (instead of the traditional loud, clashing color combinations) one year resulted in an outcry.
This post was edited by bboy on Mon, Dec 1, 14 at 13:26
I think we've had good discussions on this. I've heard of what other folks do. Good to know.
There is no perfect solution to almost anything. If we see something to our liking, then we can create the same effect. There are just so many ways to get things done.
I think it is time to close this topics. Or we just go circles....
Happy gardening.
I got mine a week late also. I did get them planted as I dug the holes weeks ago. We have had early cold weather so I am keeping my fingers crossed, I have had great luck with fall planting from Palatine and hope for success this time,too! Hope your roses settle in and glow in the spring. Lesley
Lesley, I did plant roses last year in the Fall that I received from Palatine, with no problem. I was actually surprised that they made it through the Winter given the awful polar vortex that hit us pretty hard. Let's hope that we don't see a polar vortex part 2 this year! Good luck with your roses and I look forward to seeing pics of your beautiful garden. :-)
'Westerland' isn't a Rambler. It's best described as a big shrub which can be planted against a wall or fence and somewhat trained as a climber. Many modern roses called "climbers" are really just long-caned HTs, Floribundas, or Shrubs. They can be trained to fan-out on a trellis, but can also grow as free-standing shrubs. Ramblers have more flexible canes which can more easily be wrapped around things. See pictures of it on HelpMeFind to see how mature specimens look.
:-)
~Christopher
Here is a link that might be useful: 'Westerland' at HelpMeFind
If you want Westerland to grow along your fence, just let the new shoots grow until they get as long as they are going to get, and have hardened off a bit, so they are not fragile. Then I would tie them horizontally along the fence. By all means look at the "training a climbing rose" link above and watch Paul Zimmerman's video.
Christopher is correct, of course - this rose is a climber (or shrub if you want to prune it to be just a bush), not a rambler. This is good if you want your rose to bloom all spring and summer and fall - that is what this one should do in your warm climate. Ramblers only bloom once in the Spring.
I would never remove new, healthy cane shoots on a baby rose - just let it grow for a year or two. Then you will have enough rose to begin training and pruning it. The advice you read that some people remove "buds" refers to flower buds, not new canes. From the looks of your rose, it is healthy and growing well, so I personally I would not remove any flower buds either - I only do that on very tiny, new fragile roses (the ones that are 6-10 inches tall).
Good luck with your rose - it is going to be so beautiful!
Jackie