22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Welcome, Steven. Glad to meet you and I enjoyed your lovely 'thank you' posting. You have good instincts for a great group of mentors to follow here; there are so many wonderful contributors on this forum.
Hope to read more about your garden and your roses in future,
Anne
dingo2001, I put the collars on yesterday and filled with all the existing mulch and some leaves that were in the rose bed, so I don't need to add more mulch now. I live in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, so not the East coast, but the Midwest. Lots of places that normally carry mulch that I use were out by September. They must think it is a summer thing. Grrrrrrrr. Oh well, it worked out though. When I take the collars off in Spring, I will be able to just scoop the old mulch around the roses & get rid of the old so I can add new.
Thanks for the advice Seil. Usually, my roses are okay in the winter, except the last polar vortex we had last year. I usually don't really winterize them except put a mound of soil on top of them to protect the base of the plant. Almost all of my older plants comes back. The only ones that may not is the D.A. roses and Climbing Eden that I planted this year. I think it is too late for me now but I will check this weekend.
Thank you, JJPeace! I picked Gold Medal in part because my ARS rose encyclopedia says it does well in California,"where it was born." In your zone, you can grow rugosas like "Rose de Recht", which I want but can't have. And also, I'll bet that during the summer your blooms don't dry to dust within their first four hours of life the way ours do out here!
Sylvia
You got a good point, SFV4Life. I didn't realize that summer blooms dries up that quickly down there. No, it doesn't dry up here. We get to enjoy them.
Well I guess the solution is, I grow Rose de Recht and send you some over the summer and you do the same with GM. Lol.
The rose pictured is Quicksilver bred by Jack Christensen. It was a variety that was an exclusive in 1985 for Michigan Bulb Co. It was almost lost, until Tom Carruth at Weeks mentioned he had been keeping a plant for breeding purposes. A nice 2G plants sold in the auction for $55.
Kim, I can take hardwood cuttings after Jan 1 and budding material in May. Thanks!
Here is a link that might be useful: Quicksilver
Quicksilver, Silverado and Plum Crazy were all Armstrong creations which got caught up in the Moet to Bear Creek sale fiasco. All three were pretty much Armstrong Garden Center exclusives for two, perhaps three years. Plum Crazy was the first to become available through Armstrong Garden Centers due to what they described as a "field error". Reportedly, the fields of Quicksilver and Silverado were plowed under in error, per what the local Armstrong Garden Centers stated at the time. When I finally found Silverado and Quicksilver plants, they were even worse than the Plum Crazy plant I initially bought. The bud unions were not well "engineered" and Silverado, the weaker of the three, was actually double budded to produce a Grade 1 plant. All three suffered similar "defects" in my Newhall garden. All three had very tender foliage which fried easily in the sun and hot wind in comparison to the other twelve-hundred-plus roses planted on the same hill, same soil and same culture as they were. I didn't spray anything other than water due to not desiring exposure to any chemicals, the ever present wind and heat, wild life and the fact the garden was inside a planned community with many residents wandering through every day. Hundreds of other varieties grew and flowered acceptably, but none of these three could maintain foliage which didn't demonstrate regular heat and sun damage. All were beautiful, when they were beautiful, but the colors and flowers hated the aridity, heat and sun so I seldom found really good flowers on them much of the summer. In cooler ends of the season, they could be breath taking and all were very well scented. The later Christensen creation, Fragrant Plum, was a significantly more vigorous, productive and durable plant and flower, with every bit as much scent and none of the heat issues the earlier three demonstrated. Royal Amethyst, put out at about the time of Fragrant Plum, also performed much better than the intial three and had much more durable foliage and flowers. The only other really "silver" HT that was as fragile and virused as Silverado was Buck's Silver Shadows. All were commercially budded plants on Dr. Huey and all were planted in the same bed, in the same garden so I could more easily compare them against one another. Silverado and Silver Shadows were just too fragile in every way with very fleeting flowers. Quicksilver and Plum Crazy were the next least durable in all plant parts. Eventually, only Royal Amethyst and Fragrant Plum remained out of that bunch, with more reliable, durable, heat and sun resistant types replacing the "offenders".
John, please take a look at my HMF garden list for anything you might be interested in. Putting in the request earlier (as in like right now) rather than January is better as there is a tremendous culling under way to significantly reduce the quantity of plants I have to water. Waiting too long will likely result in things not being available. Thanks. Happy Thanksgiving! Kim
You may have to read-up on biological controls.....
:-)
~Christopher
Here is a link that might be useful: Predator Mites of Spider Mites in Greenhouses
Spraying them with a fungicide on a regular basis is the best way to eliminate BS. However, many of us have decided that we don't wish to use those harsh and dangerous chemicals in our gardens anymore so we've begun to use less hazardous methods. Removing the spotted leaves is one of those. But be careful with that too. If a leaf is still green it is still capable of producing food for the plant. And that plant will need energy to produce new leaves. I only remove the already yellowing leaves as those will no longer supply energy anyway.
Removing the leaves will not eliminate the BS. It just slows it down a bit. The spores for it are already out there everywhere. They are in the plants, in the soil and in the air and only need the right weather conditions to become active and spread through your roses. They particularly like cool wet nights which is why they tell you not to water late in the day. it doesn't give the plant enough time to dry off before it cools down and gets dark. That can't always be avoided though. It's pretty much a never ending battle and unless you want to spray constantly you really need to adjust your expectations some and learn to live with some spots. It doesn't make the blooms any less beautiful!
7 looks like the miniature 'Rainbow's End'.
3 looks like a modern ground cover rose of some sort - beautiful & very healthy foliage!
Where are you approximately? When were these pictures taken? Are they blooming now? This info will help.
Jackie
Not always. Some do the "float" or "sink" test and prefer planting the sinkers, feeling they have larger, heavier embryos inside. Sometimes they float due to trapped air bubbles. Sometimes they float because they are empty. If you have too many seeds to comfortably handle, it may be a convenient way to reduce the load. I don't do the sink test. If I have way too many of a particular cross, I may only plant the larger, plumper ones. If it's from a particularly intriguing or difficult cross, I'll likely plant every one of them. It's up to you and how you want to handle them. Try it, you may be surprised..or not. It's all part of the discovery. Good luck and have fun! Kim
BTW - the reddish rose in back of the photo above is Don Marshall, another mini. You can see that Rookie is a little taller than that mini, with considerably larger flowers (and prettier, in my book).
Here's a closeup of a bloom
Cynthia
Thank you Cynthia! The thorns in the first picture look like my Mystery rose but the blooms are different. Might be the climate or immaturity of my plant