21,400 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

I agree that among the two rose types you mention the Knockouts are the better performers overall in the summers. They bloom more often and have a fuller look. Like MadGallica, I've been underimpressed with the Flower Carpet roses having skimpy growth and sporadic blooming. If you want an easy care low growing bloomer, better options would be the Kordes Vigorosa roses, the Drift series (like Peach Drift), or several low-growing Easy Elegance roses.
Cynthia

I really like my flower carpets but they do set seed and I must dead head for constant bloom. My favorites have been Apple Blossom, Pink and Red. Mine stay healthy with no spray as long as I'm sure to remove any winter damage cane. They have gone down to the crown in the last two winters. My favorite knockouts are Home Run and White Out (which technically isn't a knockout). Both are very healthy here for me. Home run sets seed easily so needs dead headed or bloom will slow down. They also die to the crown in the nastiest winters.
Would like to add that I have two Kordes roses that were tip hardy this year. Little Chap and Innocencia Vigorosa.

Oh my goodness, there are so many suggestions we can give :D I adore my New Dawns, keeping in mind that they are thorny monsters, because their blooms are just so gorgeous :) And for me, I use them in a ton of shade. I've never seen a rose bloom in as much shade as they take.
Some complain about lack of re-bloom in their New Dawns, but my clone does great. I do prune the ends often enough that I have both old and new wood, so that might matter. It's also a sport of a once-blooming rose, so maybe some revert back? Dunno, but if anyone needs cuttings of my clone, no problem :)
For more suggestions, I'd make separate posts describing the situation for the rose for prime spots. Space, sun, even soil type all matter a lot when picking the perfect rose for a spot. And color, scent and kind of bloom, too!
Definitely tell which zone 7 you will be. Mine is sunny, very hot, and humid, whereas the Pacific Northwest is much different. I think we even get colder in the winter, too, and that matters very much in some zones (not usually our sevens :) ).

Wow, sorry Nummy! They should have replaced your rose or credited you. It shouldn't matter where you live. If their rose didn't make it, they should compensate you one way or the other. She told me they would do a one-time replacement. That's all I wanted. If these don't make it, it'll be on me.


I've bought roses from the big box stores that looked like this and revived them. Place the rose in a shady spot (no direct sunlight, but with access to sunlight) and water thoroughly (water saturation to the point of overflow) every night for a week. It'll come up right away. I'd guess the spray played a part, but lack or water and too much fertilizer maybe played a bigger role. Like everyone said, remove the dead/damaged leaves.


I grow nearly all of mine in pots. This year I'll have 26 pots of roses. I aim for a container 17-18 inches deep. I've got HTs, floribundas, and grandifloras in there, and most seem to do well. The trick is keeping them watered daily, as you're their best water source. I'm in zone 7, and in winter move them to a sheltered (though still outdoor) location.


I can vouch for the wonderful diversity of plants offered by SFA. They don't have a lot of roses, but I always buy some. A couple of years ago I got a "Pink Marechal Neil" - whatever that is. It has buds on it now, so will see. Scottsville Rose is supposedly the oldest rose in Texas, was found growing near Marshall. I have 2 - one in the ground and one in a pot with a beautiful arching habit - going to let it bloom on my deck before I plant it [its a once bloomer]. The one in the ground has beautiful foliage - I may pick up another couple of them "just because". There will be all sorts of interesting plants - I must have a Marmalade shrub - that blooms yellow and orange. So much neat stuff - if any of you are nearby, its well worth the effort and time to go! I have been when its raining, that deters no one - very serious plant people go! Plus the azaleas at the nearby Ruby Mize Garden should be in bloom and that is truly a sight to behold! Also in autumn when the Japanese maples turn their brilliant colors.
Judith

Here is Greg Grant's (from SFA) description of R. banksia 'fragrant snowflake': "An intoxicatingly fragrant, delicate, single white Lady Banks rose. A vigorous seedling selected by the late Robert Bayse (breeder of Belinda's Dream) from seed from Italy. He was looking for an easier to root form for a rootstock and for blackspot resistant breeding stock. It's the most fragrant rose I've ever grown."


That is not RRD. It's very normal new spring growth. A lot of people get a little paniced when they see that really red growth but MANY roses' new growth will be very red until it matures and turns green. The leaves are often furled like that until they grow and flatten out also.
I don't see any signs of the excessive and very distorted growth that comes with RRD. RRD growth is usually so tightly packed with vegetation and all bent and curled. Which is why it's called witches broom. The thorns will cover the stems to the point where you can't even see the cane.


This oil is only used when the roses are dormant. Since Japanese Beetles come out in June, it will not stop them. A better preventive for JBs is something called Milky Spore, which you put on your lawn (that is where JBs live in the winter, not in flower beds) and it can kill the grubs. For blackspot, while dormant oil will kill the spores that overwinter, it's likely that other spores will come around during the growing season. Your best bet is to get a spray fungicide to apply regularly to roses to prevent blackspot.
If you are careful with spraying, you should be able to avoid the vegetables.


It LOVES California. I say that because I see very old ones all over - not tended, but still blooming like mad. I haven't seen noticeable disease on any, either. There is one up the street from our house. We just saw it walking back from dinner. It has a Dr. Huey rootstock flower on the bottom of it. I have told the lady who lives in that house how to take off the rootstock several times in the last 5 years. Nothing. My point is, JC must be pretty strong because it is still 95% of that plant.
Jackie

Pot them up and get really good potting soil. Pro Mix has a growth enhancer in it. I potted up six of the nine roses I got from Palantine and they are going gangbusters in the pot. The ones in the ground have new growth, but not as much. Of course it helps that I was able to take them inside during the freeze last weekend. The ones that were planted I was able to cover and they are fine.

Okay thanks guys, mine are now potted up and in my three sided window area. I will bring them outside when it is over freezing for a few days in a row, lol! I am nervous about potting them up although I don't know why. I did use a good potting soil. I guess only time will tell. I potted up my Palatine roses that came in Nov. 2013, wintered them inside and planted them in the ground in spring 2014 and they are fine but I did have one from that batch that didn't leaf out so was a loss (Philatelie) -- ugh, so nervous about these. In pots I have Neil Diamond, Raspberry Cream Twirl Climber, and Rio Samba. I NEED Neil Diamond to make it, I think I am most excited about that one. :)
Andrea


I should add they did not have Bolero that I noticed and I was unimpressed with Grand Dame. I did get a kick out of a lady explaining to her friend how the nursery forgot to pinch off all the extra buds on a florabunda spray so the HT put out the extra buds.










I had assumed you got bare root, grafted plants. Green, potted plants are another thing entirely.
You'll have to acclimate them slowly to full sun. The wind is a factor, as well. They've been grown in very sheltered artificial conditions, and have to get used to the real world! They were in an 85 degree greenhouse, high humidity, no wind, then they got shoved in a dark box, taken out and put in cold ground with 40 degree air temps. I'd lose my leaves, too, lol.
The advice cecily gave is good: keep them in filtered sun for a few days, and pot them into larger pots until they form a stronger root system. Keep them moist, not wet. Don't fertilize until you see new growth. Let them get a little bigger, and their chances of survival will increase. I RARELY put roses that small directly into the ground, unless I know they are strong growers. As for the ones you've already planted, like Kippy said, give them a couple of weeks, they might put out new growth. If it's been dry, water; but don't drown them. Without leaves they won't be losing much water.
John
Thanks Guys