22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
The rose pictured is Quicksilver bred by Jack Christensen. It was a variety that was an exclusive in 1985 for Michigan Bulb Co. It was almost lost, until Tom Carruth at Weeks mentioned he had been keeping a plant for breeding purposes. A nice 2G plants sold in the auction for $55.
Kim, I can take hardwood cuttings after Jan 1 and budding material in May. Thanks!
Here is a link that might be useful: Quicksilver
Quicksilver, Silverado and Plum Crazy were all Armstrong creations which got caught up in the Moet to Bear Creek sale fiasco. All three were pretty much Armstrong Garden Center exclusives for two, perhaps three years. Plum Crazy was the first to become available through Armstrong Garden Centers due to what they described as a "field error". Reportedly, the fields of Quicksilver and Silverado were plowed under in error, per what the local Armstrong Garden Centers stated at the time. When I finally found Silverado and Quicksilver plants, they were even worse than the Plum Crazy plant I initially bought. The bud unions were not well "engineered" and Silverado, the weaker of the three, was actually double budded to produce a Grade 1 plant. All three suffered similar "defects" in my Newhall garden. All three had very tender foliage which fried easily in the sun and hot wind in comparison to the other twelve-hundred-plus roses planted on the same hill, same soil and same culture as they were. I didn't spray anything other than water due to not desiring exposure to any chemicals, the ever present wind and heat, wild life and the fact the garden was inside a planned community with many residents wandering through every day. Hundreds of other varieties grew and flowered acceptably, but none of these three could maintain foliage which didn't demonstrate regular heat and sun damage. All were beautiful, when they were beautiful, but the colors and flowers hated the aridity, heat and sun so I seldom found really good flowers on them much of the summer. In cooler ends of the season, they could be breath taking and all were very well scented. The later Christensen creation, Fragrant Plum, was a significantly more vigorous, productive and durable plant and flower, with every bit as much scent and none of the heat issues the earlier three demonstrated. Royal Amethyst, put out at about the time of Fragrant Plum, also performed much better than the intial three and had much more durable foliage and flowers. The only other really "silver" HT that was as fragile and virused as Silverado was Buck's Silver Shadows. All were commercially budded plants on Dr. Huey and all were planted in the same bed, in the same garden so I could more easily compare them against one another. Silverado and Silver Shadows were just too fragile in every way with very fleeting flowers. Quicksilver and Plum Crazy were the next least durable in all plant parts. Eventually, only Royal Amethyst and Fragrant Plum remained out of that bunch, with more reliable, durable, heat and sun resistant types replacing the "offenders".
John, please take a look at my HMF garden list for anything you might be interested in. Putting in the request earlier (as in like right now) rather than January is better as there is a tremendous culling under way to significantly reduce the quantity of plants I have to water. Waiting too long will likely result in things not being available. Thanks. Happy Thanksgiving! Kim
You may have to read-up on biological controls.....
:-)
~Christopher
Here is a link that might be useful: Predator Mites of Spider Mites in Greenhouses
Spraying them with a fungicide on a regular basis is the best way to eliminate BS. However, many of us have decided that we don't wish to use those harsh and dangerous chemicals in our gardens anymore so we've begun to use less hazardous methods. Removing the spotted leaves is one of those. But be careful with that too. If a leaf is still green it is still capable of producing food for the plant. And that plant will need energy to produce new leaves. I only remove the already yellowing leaves as those will no longer supply energy anyway.
Removing the leaves will not eliminate the BS. It just slows it down a bit. The spores for it are already out there everywhere. They are in the plants, in the soil and in the air and only need the right weather conditions to become active and spread through your roses. They particularly like cool wet nights which is why they tell you not to water late in the day. it doesn't give the plant enough time to dry off before it cools down and gets dark. That can't always be avoided though. It's pretty much a never ending battle and unless you want to spray constantly you really need to adjust your expectations some and learn to live with some spots. It doesn't make the blooms any less beautiful!
7 looks like the miniature 'Rainbow's End'.
3 looks like a modern ground cover rose of some sort - beautiful & very healthy foliage!
Where are you approximately? When were these pictures taken? Are they blooming now? This info will help.
Jackie
Not always. Some do the "float" or "sink" test and prefer planting the sinkers, feeling they have larger, heavier embryos inside. Sometimes they float due to trapped air bubbles. Sometimes they float because they are empty. If you have too many seeds to comfortably handle, it may be a convenient way to reduce the load. I don't do the sink test. If I have way too many of a particular cross, I may only plant the larger, plumper ones. If it's from a particularly intriguing or difficult cross, I'll likely plant every one of them. It's up to you and how you want to handle them. Try it, you may be surprised..or not. It's all part of the discovery. Good luck and have fun! Kim
The Antique Rose Emporium sells a 2 gallon sized plant for $19, and it is listed as being in stock on their website.
Palatine sells it grafted onto multiflora if you prefer it grafted.
HMFRoses lists quite a few sources for it. If you click on the "view all nurseries selling this rose" tab at the bottom of the "Buy From" page, you will be able to see all the sources.
Here is a link that might be useful: sources for Dortmund
Sounds good to me. Why don't you alternate Munstead Wood (dark purple/burgundy red) and Princess Anne (pink) or Boscobel (apricot pink)--they are all quite good on bs resistance and good on rebloom. And all about 3 x 2.
If you can hold out for an extra year, Austin's new Olivia Rose Austin may be available in America. She is a fantastic beauty. You can see her on the English David Austin site.
kate
I deeply sympathize but after gardening for 20 years in my present garden I am getting more thickskinned. I give a rose at least 4 years (I live in Sweden where the climate is harsh), often much more. But I have started culling non-performers and roses I don't much like sooner now. I still have enough space for roses but I am beginning to want other plants, too, more ornamental trees and shrubs, evergreens and large perennials. I hang on longest to roses from friends, it feels like a betrayal to get rid of them, however bad the plants. This New Dawn, an old clone, promises to be a keeper though. I got it and the little white rose in the background (a foundling, may be La Neige) from a friend.
It depends on the rose and the reason I wants it gone for me. If the plant is marked for removal due to excessive disease and such, then I just compost it because I can't see heaving a bad plant onto other people. Especially considering that I don't have any experienced rose folk around to give them to. Others that are good plants, but I want to remove them just to have space for something else, usually end up sitting around so long that I forget why I wanted to get rid of it and it stays. I'm lazy like that. If I happen to actually dig the plant up, I almost always pot it up...where it sits forever till I find a new place for it. :)
Some roses described as climbers are semi-shrubby with stiff, relatively upright canes. It is easier to bushify these types. Others make very long shoots that are nowhere near self-supporting.
To make a stand-up shrub, I let the new basal canes bloom out and then cut them back to 3-4 feet. The cane then produces 2 or 3 laterals that are cut back to a self-supporting length and then branch again. Every time I prune a lateral, I leave several bud sites to encourage branching. Once you get a lot of branches, the plant will produce fewer long basal canes.
The other option is to let it form a fountain shape as boncrow describes. Here you may need to allow for 10-12' width.
This post was edited by michaelg on Fri, Nov 21, 14 at 12:22
with the ten of thousands of roses available....
i would wonder why you would need to buy and try to make a climber ... into a bush ... other than for the sake of learning how to prune ..... you may come to truly understand the vigor of some of these climbers ...
sure.. anything can be pruned into whatever shape and form the pruner wants it to be.. think bonsai for the extreme ... pruning never killed anything ... itself ...
but i would step back... and try to find one.. that grows in the shape and form i wanted... rather than sign myself up for a lifetime of pruning ...
on the other hand .... i truly do understand.. that often.. you gotta have .... what you want ...
ken
Please wait until March or you'll worry yourself to death all winter over that rose. If it were bareroot (dormant) you could certainly plant it now but its awfully late in the season to plant a potted rose. The best solution IMHO is to schlep it outside during warm spells and keep it in the basement during Jan, Feb and especially cold spells in Dec & March. Mad Gallica is a very experienced cold zone gardener (she over winters all sorts of things in her basement including heirloom peppers) so take her advice regarding light set ups. I've been buying special fluorescent tubes for years and apparently I don't really need them LOL.
Thank you, JJPeace! I picked Gold Medal in part because my ARS rose encyclopedia says it does well in California,"where it was born." In your zone, you can grow rugosas like "Rose de Recht", which I want but can't have. And also, I'll bet that during the summer your blooms don't dry to dust within their first four hours of life the way ours do out here!
Sylvia
You got a good point, SFV4Life. I didn't realize that summer blooms dries up that quickly down there. No, it doesn't dry up here. We get to enjoy them.
Well I guess the solution is, I grow Rose de Recht and send you some over the summer and you do the same with GM. Lol.