22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

Hi

Thanks for the info. I may have both because sometimes I saw raised soil winding through my yard and when I dug, I found tunnels, normally leading to compost hole. That makes me think that whatever it is, it is looking for worms that is eating the compost. I tried the mole bombs but it is not doing any good. I did try to follow the tunnels but they kinda dip so deep that I gave up. I know that when the roses start not to look too happy and have yellow leaves, i have to dig around for these tunnels. I have not seen any mole hills yet ( didnt know such thing exists except in the old saying..he he) On most days however, I saw holes dug right under the roots of my annuals. Every morning I have to make a run just to cover these holes and salvage the plants before going to work.Do you think the tunnels and the holes are done by moles? The holes are normally about 6" in diameter.

@fduk: A question on nematodes, I guess this is the good kind, not the one I already have in my soil. I dont know what kind of grubs I have. I have St Augustine grass so my guess is that they are the ones that eat my grass as well. So do you think the nematodes that you use will work on these grubs?

Thanks

Oh, I should have been clearer! Yes, completely different nematodes - it's a massive, massive group, something like a million different species, I believe.

They all have their different niches, and one that parasitises grubs is NOT going to cause damage to your plants. They naturally occur in the soil, except not necessarily in the quantities required to wipe out an infestation. It's like introducing ladybirds to a greenhouse to control aphids, except, of course, everybody loves ladybirds, and most people have only heard of nematodes as those things that kill your plants!

So, at a guess, (are you in Florida?) if the grubs are eating Augustine grass roots, they are most likely japanese beetle, may/june bugs or some form of chafer.

There's not really any other way to approach it, except to identify what kind of grub, and then order the nematodes specific to that species. I guess you might be able to get a broad spectrum mixed pack for your area? The ones I use for the vine weevil are called Steinernema kraussi, and they are specifically predatory to vine weevil, so they wouldn't do you any good, I'm afraid.

If you've seen some adults, that would help with identifying them, or you could dig around till you find some grubs to compare with pictures on the internet. Or you could take a punt on the ones that are most common to your area, and treat for those and see if it makes a difference. The bad thing about that would be wasted money, but the good thing is that you can't hurt your plants by treating them - if there aren't any of their prey species available, the nematodes just die.

I hope this helps - I'm not really a bug expert. I believe from reading other forum member's post, that in addition to nematodes, there's a bacterial product called Milky Spore for controlling japanese beetle, and if all else fails, I think there's a pesticide called merit?

so if it is the least of her problems what are the greater problems?

Roses are highly susceptible to herbicide damage including the broadleaf insecticides that are sprayed on lawns. A little overspray would produce distorted growth, which hasn't had time to appear yet. A thorough wetting such as might cause burn from the fertilizer ingredient could kill them with herbicide.

But as for the pictured damage, I'll return to my theory that she may have overdone soil prep and provided excess nutrients. It's a common mistake with rose newbies. If this is the case and ample water has flushed the soil, then the new growth should be OK.

whatever you decide, I found that horse manure helps to lessen the problems so I put a good layer down in the spring after removing old leaves from the ground.

I noticed a significant improvement, too, when I started using horse manure.

I've posted photos of some of the "untagged" roses in the ROSES forum.

As soon the other roses bloom, I'll post their photos, too.

In my garden, the general rule for spacing roses is 2-3 feet apart (from one base to the next base)--depending on how wide the rose will supposedly grow when mature.

Never prune roses so severely unless they are suffering from freeze damage after a severe winter.

Fortunately, reasonably healthy roses will jump back (if allowed to) and start growing and blooming (with time) like champs again--so you have some beautiful roses to look forward to.

Let us know how it goes. : )

Kate

summers rhythm makes a good point that the first flush needs deadheading if you want good repeat. You can do this casually with hedge shears, so it's not a terrible chore unless you have to get on a ladder. Don't worry where you snip, just get rid of the hips.

Wow that looks very cool Elks. Beautiful and healthy too. Good choice growing against the red bricks because it made the rose really pops out. Love the way it grows over the window, so the rose can be appreciated on the inside as well. If it does well in London, Ontario than Toronto shouldn't be a big problem. Thanks!

Thanks guys, I will write all your important points down so when I do decide to grow this rose, I will have a good start.

Ttrying to grow roses in sandy Florida soil. I am starting to see Ken's point....I'm quite sure I would have time to enjoy them once I have the watering system set up..I think...or..maybe after I buy the fertigation thingy..or maybe after I amend the soil a little more so that I do have a bloom or two to enjoy...

Planting morning glory from seed. I'm still paying for that little fiasco 10 years later.

Great picture!

An annual here in WI :(

Considering that your rose is already fully leafed out, I assume that you are in a warm part of the U.S. Please keep us informed if the symptoms disappear in hot weather (i.e. is this a temperature sensitive virus) and what the dealer reply to your inquiry is.

I haven't had a reply yet, but I will definitely keep you updated! And yes, I am in warmer weather, Florida 9a. I will let you know if the symptoms disappear.

It's impossible that you could get enough of a rootball to support all that foliage. It would have to be cut back a whole lot anyway.

Just think, wouldn't you be happy to be receiving a bare-root standard in a big box from Edmunds? Cut it back about half-way and strip the leaves before digging.

I know it's tough but it's for the best. They will grow back!

Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I turned them over and def small bugs with some white fuzzy webby substance on them. I'm going to try neem oil on them and see if it helps.

Washing the bush every day for three or four days would be more effective than neem (and doesn't have the potential to burn foliage in hot weather vwhen mites are most prevalent). Good luck.

Joe - that's a relief to read that your problem isn't like mine. That cold snap you mention could have done it. Hope you see new growth soon!

Update: Yes, it was the cold front wrecking havoc. The bush is filled with lil' shoots of green, so yay! Thanks for all of your help. :D

Amazing advice. Thank you!

I got a very ripe hip from our Paradise bush, and the seeds have been well-scrubbed and now in the fridge for stratification. Hopefully, I'll get a rose or three out of it. *crosses fingers*

Glad someone mentioned toxoplasmosis! As a pregnant gardener, a neighborhood cat using my yard would outright stop me from any gardening for at least a season. It is not something to be messed around with and I'd be furious if I was banned from my garden because you can't be bothered to keep your pet off my property!

If the cats are wild, trap them and send them to SPCA. If they're your neighbors, trap them and give them to the animal control cops, the owners have to pay a fee to get their cats back, I think it's $45 each for my town. It's easy to say, hard to do. One of my neighbors cat always in my yard, they're good people, so the cat just becomes part of my garden......still not a cat person.