22,151 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

I don't know enough about the science behind any of this to say which of you might be right. I do know that psychologically I feel better when I put down some kind of protection, lol!

I feel bad reading this post because I did not winterize my roses at all and I live in Canada, the Great white North. We had our first snowfall yesterday here in Toronto.

Well, I believe that if a rose can't survive our winter than they are not worth keeping.

I agree with Seil for not bringing roses indoor as they are not houseplants. Well the exception is mini roses.

Ok. Doggone it. I am just going to stop worrying this year. Everything is a reasonable size and well protected and damn the torpedoes. I have only a few that are truly irreplaceable.
Susan

If you want just protect those irreplaceable ones and leave the rest. That should cut down on the work. The problem is we really have little control over it anyway. It's up to Mother Nature what kind of winter she wants to throw at us this year.

Eureka ... There WAS an active Las Vegas Rose Society .. Some of it may remain. Try the American Rose SocIety Website.

Also, look to Rose groups in Southern AZ and other desert areas.

Start to build a list of GOOD roses, and recommended rose culture techniques for desert conditions.

Where I live in CA, the temps in the summer are about as hot as Vegas and this last summer Vegas was often cooler then we were! When I started rose gardening, I read the book, Roses in a Desert Garden. It was very helpful for me when growing my own roses. Might want to see if your local library has a copy you could read. We are also under water restrictions so that adds fuel to the fire when trying to grow roses.

I learned that a lot of roses need afternoon shade when it gets to be 105-117 degrees. I prefer to grow roses on their own root as I have to muIch very heavily due to heat and water restrictions (we can only water twice a week during the summer and not at all during the winter). Some of my older roses not on their own roots have started reverting back to root stock, so those are coming out this year with some not so great performers in the heat.

Best of luck to you on this challenge. The people you serve will be better off with your knowledge.

Thanks, Kippy, but please go ahead and bid on it. I NEED another rose like I NEED fleas. You will enjoy it and probably propagate it. Besides, you NEED it! LOL! Thanks. Kim

I love Ralph Moore roses. I had Sweet Chariot at one time as a standard but don't anymore. Wasn't one of my favorites as the flowers shattered easily but it was a pretty little rose. Good bloomer for me.

My favorite is probably Lavender Crystal. What a little beauty! I had her as a standard and then when I pruned her, stuck a twig in the ground and it grew. The "stem" for the standard was not doing well, so I now just have her on her own root. I love her flowers and she is pretty much always in bloom for me. Gets to be about two to three feet tall and about 2 feet wide or so. Large flowers for a mini.

I also have a bi-colored rose that I don't know the name of from him. Nice mini. The color is almost a burnt pink on the edges that fades into a lighter color on the same petal. Interesting coloring. It is a strange color and I may have to move it this year as I don't think it gets enough water where it is located. Not sure I would get this one again but I got it for the strange coloration on the petals.

I have Sequoia; a nice yellow mini as well.

I have, I think, a Pink Powderpuff. It is a huge climber with wonderful full pink flowers. Very tall (probably about 10-12 feet or so. I wish it bloomed more but I do love the rose. Stands up to our heat. Mean thorns on this one.

Then I also have the rose that he bred Diamond Anniversary. It is a beautiful little mini. Took a while to get it as he was constantly out of it but sent one to my folks (for their 65th wedding anniversary even though this one is named after the 60th wedding anniversary). A very nice mini.

I also have the Birthday Cake rose. Interesting colors on this one. It has taken a while to get into a bush shape (I bought it as a small, barely rooted twig on its own root and have only had it for two years--if that). It is still quite small but I expect it to start leaping this coming spring.

I love and miss Ralph. I wish I had room for more of his roses.

Hi everyone. I have been stalking for more than 3 years now and I am finally ready to come out from hiding. LoL.

I just wanted to say that I have grown Peace twice. The first time I bought it was a strong bushy plant with robust canes from Home Depot. I had planted it at the right side of my backyard and it died after the first winter. Nevertheless in its short life, it was bushy and seemed to be thriving but had blackspot like crazy.

Two years later I bought another Peace at a local gardening centre and decided to plant it on the left side of the garden. This bush rarely had blackspot except near the end of fall and is a blooming machine with big blooms. It only stopped blooming near the end of October. (FYI: I live in Toronto, Canada). However, my Peace seems to be more yellow with less pink than most other people's I've seen.

Therefore based on my experience I have to say that it all depends on location (the first location I've eventually noticed is more shady and waterlogged while I noticed roses in the second location to be have less blackspot) and the health of the plant itself.

Based on this experience, I have decided to grow Graham Thomas again (which I bought a second time this summer) and Marilyn Monroe (which died last winter but will purchase next spring).

I hope that helps.

Hi, marcindy. I have been growing this rose for twenty years. Probably have planted and killed 15 of them. A few years ago, I got one from palatine. It even survived last winter.

Kippy, you got a band size Rosette Delizy from Antique Rose Emporium? Or did you mean Heirloom????

Melissa

Melissa, I bought Rosette Delizy from ARE, it arrived with a lot of black canes, first trim back after a week of keeping it in the open shade to see if the canes were live and just dark or dead, I had half of the shipped plant alive. The die back continued, cut off another half trying to keep it alive, cut off another half, what survived is one side of the 3" cane and a 6" lateral. Note I cut about 1/4" below the black with cleaned prunners trying to only cut in clean wood with out cutting off too much. I have sent photos back and forth to ARE and Mike and we are watching it for now to see it it might make it. I has been two months and has stopped dying back and is showing signs of life.

I am guessing it is a rose not to have shipped that distance, there was some one else that posted previously with a similar problem with the same plant.

I did get a nice looking General Schablikine that is doing well and a Mlle de Sombreuil that is small but only had a couple of canes die back (shipped with Rosette Delizy)

I am enjoying Mike's Book, it wonderful.

But after ordering from 5 different nurseries, I am not seeing a vast difference in purchasing bands vs 1gs.

So, to me, the price difference between pot sizes is not something I worry about, but the difference in stock/variety availability is what is important.

Okay I talked to the owner or RVR today and she said she's defineately planning to introduce Dakota Redwing spring 2015, assuming all goes well with the crop. She believes it will sell out fast and reccomends anyone wanting it should put it on their wish list or sign up for their newsletter.

As for Carolyn Supinger (they have it under Carol Supinger), she hopes to have it introduced in the summer to early fall 2015.

She said they've been fighting drought and other issues, so she doesn't know for sure if they'll be able to introduce these roses, but if all goes well her plan is to introduce them at the times mentioned.

Edit:
I meant to say she doesn't know for sure if they'll be able to introduce the roses NEXT YEAR. She does plan to introduce them as early as possible.

This post was edited by Rosecandy on Mon, Nov 17, 14 at 13:28

Thanks so much for asking, RoseCandy! Looks like I need to get my wish list set for this one, and I already get their newsletter. I'm excited to get my hands on this wonderful rose, and I really appreciate your efforts in communicating with RVR.

Cynthia

they are not houseplants...

you will do more harm.. leaving them indoors.. with insufficient light..

than you will .. exposing to what you might think is cold ...

you are on the verge of loving them to death ...

in a pot that big.. see if you cant get someone to come by.. once a week ... to water ... and if you cant... just water real heavy for a few days prior.. to get the media nice an moist.. and hope for the best ...

ken

And, in Z9, 1\3 barrel isn' big enough long-term, for Grandiflora Roses.

Pulled out Shrub Roses and Climbing Roses ('93) to check on Austin's definitions from the included Glossary.

BUSH. I use this word to describe closely pruned bedding roses, as for example a Hybrid Tea.
BUSHY SHRUB. A rose of dense, rounded growth.
SHRUB. A rose that is normally pruned lightly and allowed to grow in a more natural form, as opposed to a bush which is pruned close to the ground.
SPREADING SHRUB. A shrub on which the branches tend to extend outwards rather than vertically.
UPRIGHT SHRUB. A rose in which the growth tends to be vertical.
ARCHING SHRUB. A shrub in which the long main branches bend down towards the soil, usually in a graceful manner.

In my head a border is usually a narrower strip backed by something else. It "borders" a fence or wall of a house or even a walk/drive way. But it's not too wide and is usually longer in length than depth. Usually the taller plants are to the rear of the viewing angle with shorter ones in front. If it's free standing along a walk or drive way where it can be viewed from both sides you can put taller in the center with shorter on either side.

A bed can be anything else, square, round, free form, big or small, whatever shape or size you need or want. It can be free standing in the middle of a lawn or against a house, building or wall but it's deeper than a border. It can be uniform in height or it can also have taller focal points in the center or a key area surrounded or filled in with shorter plants. Whatever allows the plants to be seen unobstructed and at their best from the viewing point, i.e. good curb appeal!

I think either one can be formal or not depending on what you put in them and how you arrange it. I don't particularly like a too formal look to my garden so mine are pretty much a riot of different colors, textures and shapes. I tend to over fill them (because there;s always something else I want, lol) so they look a bit big and blowsy. That's the look I like though. Nothing too neat or rigid for me. I like a more relaxed and natural looking arrangement of plants. Only humans plant in neat little rows. Mother Nature never does!

Early on (before I knew about the virused rose situation) many of my commercial roses had a life time of about 5 years. Later on, I did not keep roses with virus symptoms. I am a hybridizer and did not want to take the chance of producing a virused offspring and / or infecting my valuable seedlings..

The latest tool for virus identification seems to next generation sequencing.

The research paper below reports finding PNRSV in wild multiflora by what they call "deep sequencing"..

"A bizarre virus-like symptom of a leaf rosette formed by dense small leaves on branches of wild roses (Rosa multifloraâÂÂThunb.), designated as âÂÂwild rose leaf rosette diseaseâ (WRLRD), was observed in China."

"The assembly of siRNAs led to the reconstruction of the complete genomes of three known viruses, namely Apple stem grooving virus (ASGV), Blackberry chlorotic ringspot virus (BCRV) and Prunus necrotic ringspot virus (PNRSV), and of a novel virus provisionally named âÂÂrose leaf rosette-associated virusâ (RLRaV)."

H. Kuska comment: Although they call their procedure "Deep sequencing" it appears to be similar to "next generation sequencing" see below.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

In the U.S. Professor Tzanetakis (whose research group was the first to identify Rose Rosette Virus) has recently published a paper on next generation sequencing.

Title: "Development of a virus detection and discovery pipeline using next generation sequencing."

Authors : Thien Ho , Ioannis E. Tzanetakis

"The pipeline was used to process more than 30 samples resulting in the detection of all viruses known to infect the processed samples, the extension of the genomic sequences of others, and the discovery of several novel viruses. VirFind was tested by four external users with datasets from plants or insects, demonstrating its potential as a universal virus detection and discovery tool."

http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0042682214004437

Here is a link that might be useful: link to Chinese paper and PNRSV

Ratdogheads, love your varieties of roses and the display. Thanks also for the names.

seil, seeing your lovely bouquet is bittersweet because I know this is the end of the rose season for you, and I'd like it to last longer. Still, they gave you a splendid send-off.

ratdogheads, that's a gorgeous display and I love how you've staged the roses in term of color grouping and choice of vases. The only one I have is Marie Pavie which looks so sweet in its little vase. Mine is white and I love the pink color of yours.

Ingrid

The reason I'm able to cut my floribundas to the ground before spring is that there is never live healthy cane at winters end. Even those which do not appear dead have discolored centers when trimmed if I allow them to grow they will not have healthy leaves. They go down to the crown every year. The unhealthy canes don't provide food to the rose. So they are safe to remove in the middle of our ice cold winters. In spring feeder roots that have died will begin to grow. Canes will sprout again. Healthy leaves will feed the roots. The beautiful roses will be back.

I've never had any luck with "tender" (many floribundas, most hybrid teas, some shrubs, etc.) roses in the ground; whether against a south wall exposed, or mounded after freezing weather with free-draining mulch, they always die back to the crown. Come spring, it's always prune down to those last few inches!
My 'Papa Meilland' was a fantastic example of this, but came back very well each season I had it and was always around four feet tall by the end of July.

Interestingly to me, nickjoseph, is what a different type of Zone 5 climate you experience there in Wisconsin.
Here in my south-central Michigan (southern most county very near Interstate 69) I had NO blackspot on my two roses I would suspect to have it the most ('Angel Face' and 'Mirandy'), and I have NEVER seen rust in my location (nor 15 miles southeast at my father's). Generally blackspot is the most prevalent fungal presence in my humid climate.
This year's scourge for me was powdery mildew. 'Therese Bugnet' seemed to be heavily infected this season, beginning shortly after the new season's growth began (but after my main spring flush) and 'Mirandy' started showing signs and touches of it through September only.
I did not spray this year except for washing down of plants with copious fresh water spray.
My AF and Mirandy are my first-time pot experiments, and I love trying new things.

I suppose the best option, of course, is to select those wonderful, cane hardy varieties for us here in the Great North.
I have found Rugosas and gallicas to be exceptionally impressive in this regard, and look forward to trying more classes of these roses.
Interestingly, Westerland, which I often seen rated as hardy, always died near the ground for me in a southern, sheltered site. I ended up SP'ing this one.
The once-bloomers are more than worth their place (especially if one has the room) in the garden during their one, extended, intense, and bountiful display of blousy beauty.

Steven

I am also thinking of having a sprinkler system with drip in the beds for my front yard. how does that work, zone wise. Are the drips different zones than the sprinklers for the lawns? If I have the sprinkler system installed by professionals, could I do the drip on my own (to save money) or is that not advised? I do have a rather large (wide) front yard with beds all over the place so I would probably need a few different zones. And obviously I don't want the sprinklers to spray on my roses.

buford,

One 1/4 inch hose can handle about 10 drippers without a loss in volume. So, you could run a 1/4" hose out to a bed and using Tee's water 10 roses. At the water source you would attach a timer, back-flow preventor, a pressure reducer, and a piece of 1/2 inch hose. The end of that hose is either capped or bent backwards to close it off. They sell units just for that, looks like a figure-8.
Along that 1/2" hose you insert plugs that the 1/4 inch hoses are attached to. They can be just inches apart.
Don't bury the 1/4 inch hose, just pin it down on top of the grass. In a few weeks you won't see it so run straight lines to the beds. At the end of each 1/4" hose attach a dripper of the correct volume (ie. 1/2 gal, 1 gal, etc)

hope that helps.....

Thanks everyone for your suggestions. Btw, I thought Red Cascade was a climbing miniature rose? Anyway, I'll have to look up your suggestions on helpmefind - my favorite rose website of all time.

Bellarosa - whether Red Cascade climbs or sprawls depends on how you grow her. If you tie her up to a support, she climbs. If not, she covers ground. What makes it work as a ground cover is that it doesn't just bloom at the end like most climbers (which would make them poor as ground covers). Instead, it puts out a lot of short laterals at regular intervals, so blooms pop up all over the place. As I recall, mine had about 4 or 5 main canes, each of which spread in a different direction with scattered blooms along the length.

I agree - hmf is the best website for roses! Everyone should support it if possible with a premium membership so it stays around!

Cynthia