21,402 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

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roseseek

That hype is specifically because Applause contains genes not indigenous to rosa. They initially marketed it in Japan where the aesthetic appreciates manipulation of Nature. Think bonsai trees; melons and fruit grown in lucite boxes to alter their shape to cubes, etc. That aesthetic also values the gift and the honor it is meant to bestow based upon the cost of the gift. You and I may be honored and pleased by the gift of a vase of flowers from the giver's garden. That aesthetic is more likely to feel more honored knowing each stem of the rose cost the giver $35 (Applause's initial sale price in Asia). Not that the bloom is actually "blue", but it does represent many years of genetic manipulation to alter the color of the initial rose from red to the mauve color it expresses. In that light, it is presented as "the blue rose", which is how it is accepted by that aesthetic. I agree the photos of Blue Bayou does appear rather "blue" in the pastel range. Some images of Rhapsody in Blue appear quite "blue" in the darker range. For the whole organism, its health, ease of growth and ability to flower in all types of weather here, Blue for You still wins, hands down in my book. I need to get hold of Blue Bayou. I have some definite ideas for breeding with it... Kim

    Bookmark   February 24, 2014 at 2:38PM
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Molineux(6b)

I've never heard of cyanidine expressing itself as blue. It is a red-to-purple plant pigment. To my knowledge the blue plant pigment is delphinidine. And that is what makes the Suntory Applause rose unique. The color being expressed is coming completely from delphinidine. Unfortunately the celluar pH isn't basic enough to fully express blue so what they got was lavender, which we already have in the mauve color class of roses.

    Bookmark   June 17, 2014 at 11:23AM
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catsrose(VA 6)

Unless your trellis is huge or you mean to spend your life pruning, I'd say New Dawn and Peggy Martin would take up all the space and then some. A photo wood be helpful.

    Bookmark   June 16, 2014 at 11:50PM
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boncrow66

I will get a pic this weekend. I was hoping to plant a short climber that repeat blooms so I will have color when the ND and PM are done blooming. My New Dawn looks scrawny to me and has never really turned into a monster like I have heard it can be. My PG is a very small, I received her as a cutting and put her in the ground so I don't expect her crowd anything out anytime soon and I really only want to plant something new on the side as the ND.

    Bookmark   June 17, 2014 at 11:16AM
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jim1961 Zone 6a Central Pa.

And a pic of your damage may be very helpful also.... Thanks

    Bookmark   June 16, 2014 at 9:04PM
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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

Yes, more info please.

Generally, large holes are made by a caterpillar or sawfly larva (wormlike) who is hiding in the foliage near active damage. Pinholes are made by rose curculio or stinkbugs.

    Bookmark   June 17, 2014 at 9:55AM
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boncrow66

I think your roses are gorgeous, especially your port sunlight and CPM. I am also new this year to growing Austin's and a few antiques, could give me some advice lol. Like what are you using for fertilizer?? Your roses look so healthy.

    Bookmark   June 16, 2014 at 9:00PM
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Joopster(5 (Chicago))

Thanks all. Most of the credits go to my husband who prep the flower bed for me last year. The bed was raised a foot and half and he filled it up with top soil with peat moss. I believe the top soil have some composted manure added. Last Fall he shredded dry leaves and covered the whole bed with with. We're both new at gardening. So everything is guess work for us. In Spring I gave them a little Scott's rose food. I'm thinking about trying milorganite but I'm doing some research on that right now. Do you have any suggestion for good rose food?

I do get yellow leaves, usually at the bottom. I usually pull them off and spray the plant just a little once a month.

Also, some of my roses are slowly growing and no bloom. I got some tea roses that were impacted by the harsh winter and just woke up. Also, 5 bareroots from David Austins that I acquired at the end of April. Anything I can do to speed them up?

This post was edited by Joopster on Tue, Jun 17, 14 at 9:52

    Bookmark   June 17, 2014 at 9:43AM
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AquaEyes 7a New Jersey

Most European OGRs bloom on old wood -- even many of those which repeat. So what happens is that new canes (thick shoots from the base) will grow this year, and next year will bloom on laterals on last year's canes. After the first flush, if you cut back the laterals on last year's shoots, they'll bloom again (if the rose repeats).

Basically, they bloom on new shoots growing from last year's canes. This is the case for most of the long-caned Bourbons and Hybrid Perpetuals. Some of those with an extra dose of China or Tea will bloom on new shoots the same year, but 'Zephirine Drouhin' isn't one of those.

So if this rose is new for you, don't expect much in the way of blooms the first year -- sometimes not much the second year, either. The rose first needs to grow its layer of canes which will mature and then flowerHybrid Teas and Floribundas have heavier doeses of China-derived repeat-blooming genes, and so they will bloom on new shoots their first year (hence their being able to take hard-pruning in Spring and still flower that same year).

:-)

~Christopher

    Bookmark   June 17, 2014 at 12:03AM
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sara_ann-z6bok

Thank you Christopher. This is ZD's second year. Last year it just had a handful of blooms early in the season. This year the first spring flush seemed very good for its second year, it had quite a few blooms.

    Bookmark   June 17, 2014 at 7:05AM
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petelauch

I have:

Love Song
White Pet
Clotilde Soupert

Here is a link that might be useful: My Garden

    Bookmark   June 16, 2014 at 4:27PM
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ElisaShinde

Roses are the beautiful flowers through which you can show your love to someone, if you want to buy flowers, then contact flowersatkirribilli that has different varieties of flowers are available.

Here is a link that might be useful: different varieties of flowers

    Bookmark   June 17, 2014 at 2:18AM
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Roses 1 Bambi 0Tough luck jr.
Posted by deervssteve(9) June 15, 2014
6 Comments
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ingrid_vc so. CA zone 9

Steve, I love your perseverance and sense of humor. That's a great picture. You can almost feel that youngster's disappointment.

Ingrid

    Bookmark   June 16, 2014 at 6:23PM
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charleney(8a PNW)

Lets hear it for the fencing? Yippee!

    Bookmark   June 17, 2014 at 12:31AM
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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

Mine virtually disappear as the spring flush opens and with not significant damage. This applies to about 40 years of roses. I suggest that people try doing nothing and see what happens. (No harm in spritzing or wiping if you want to take the trouble.)

    Bookmark   June 16, 2014 at 10:24AM
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Zyperiris(Seattle)

Embrace the bugs...let nature take it's course. If you have aphids then it's a good sign your garden is alive..and the lady bugs will show up.

    Bookmark   June 16, 2014 at 11:55PM
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mark_roeder(4B IA)

This one is Polarstern. I grew it from a cutting. I actually stuck the cutting in the ground behind my office building and it grew.

    Bookmark   June 16, 2014 at 10:28PM
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mark_roeder(4B IA)

This is Johann Strauss. As you can see I have some maintenance issues here - failure to deadhead. But it is a really cool rose. Porcelain like.

    Bookmark   June 16, 2014 at 10:33PM
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dragonfly_field(8)

My gosh that's a lot of plants to loose! I'm so sorry to hear that! My mom lost a few other plants along with these. It was just a bad winter. Thanks for your help!

    Bookmark   June 13, 2014 at 4:33PM
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pandora(Z5 OH)

Sorry for both your loses.

Seil, That is a lot to lose. I lost all my 5 buddleias and a couple shrubs.
I hope some garden buddies might be able to replace some of your roses.

    Bookmark   June 16, 2014 at 5:18PM
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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

It took mine 4-5 years with staking to develop a self-supporting framework. Fortunately it is cane-hardy at least to zone 6, or else you'd never get a decent plant. If I had it to do over again, I would use a 6' tripod or tuteur to help it gain height. It needs to be tall because the flowers nod. Heed Tuggy's suggestion of cutting the drooping laterals back to an inside (upward-facing) bud after blooming/

Mine has been gorgeous this spring flush. It is really strange that some people can't smell it. My 73-year-old nose finds the perfume to be powerful and consistent. But different people have different sets of scent receptors.

I would describe the colors as apricot to mild orange, fading to beige at the end. In my climate it is not often pink.

This post was edited by michaelg on Mon, Jun 16, 14 at 12:18

    Bookmark   June 16, 2014 at 10:20AM
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vickysgarden

Thank you, Nancy! It is planted near Husker Red Penstemon Digitalis, which reliably blooms at the same time as the roses each year in the late spring. After the white blooms are over, you can cut it back and the foliage still looks nice for the rest of the summer. It is called "red" because the foliage and stems sometimes appear to have a dark, maroon type color.

    Bookmark   June 16, 2014 at 4:49PM
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vampygirl13

Wow--they look great! I placed an order too. I got Purple Splash (cl) and a replacement Marilyn Monroe that didn't make it back from winter. Hopefully they get here today or tomorrow.

I've been very pleased with RU and their great plants. When I don't buy local roses, they are the first site I am on for hunting down roses on my wishlist.

    Bookmark   June 16, 2014 at 3:35PM
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kentucky_rose zone 6

Impressive!

    Bookmark   June 16, 2014 at 3:39PM
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wirosarian_z4b_WI

Yes, thorny & a one time bloomer. Also aggressively spreads by the roots once established.

    Bookmark   June 13, 2014 at 9:56AM
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kvenkat(5a Colo)

These can get quite huge. Very pretty in the spring when blooming, however.

    Bookmark   June 16, 2014 at 2:28PM
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Venomuse

Awesome, thank you so much for answering my questions :) glad to hear they are good shoots. Will just let them go and see what it does, since it's finally seem like it has woken up and is doing well.

    Bookmark   June 16, 2014 at 2:09PM
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AquaEyes 7a New Jersey

Basically, grafted/budded roses are "two plants in one" -- the roots are one variety, and the top-growth is another. Suckers (new shoots from the roots) are new top-growth from the root variety, and something you DON'T want.

But own-root roses are the same rose all the way through, top and bottom. So if new top growth comes from the roots, it will be the same as pre-existing top-growth. If the new shoots are not where you want them to be (as in Gallicas and Spinosissimas), then certainly remove them. But in your pic, those new shoots will help to develop a fuller, bushier plant than would be possible from a grafted/budded rose.

:-)

~Christopher

    Bookmark   June 16, 2014 at 2:26PM
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mad_gallica(zone 5 - eastern New York)

No, so long as it isn't a bareroot plant, but potted and growing, and you understand its watering needs over the summer.

Given the truly marginal roses that are described as 'hardy', it is easy to run out of words to describe Explorers. If you would do it with a lilac, or any other hardy shrub, you can do it with these roses.

    Bookmark   June 16, 2014 at 12:41PM
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Michaela .:. thegarden@902 .:. (Zone 5b - Iowa)

I have a lot of young roses, hydrangeas and clematis so I water regularly. That wouldn't be a problem. I was looking at high country roses, they have an own root quadra on there for a good price.

Thanks so much for the advice. I think I will go w/ quadra for my arbor. :o)

    Bookmark   June 16, 2014 at 12:56PM
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