22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
In regard to the concern that mixing whites will make other whites look "dirty" .. here is my thought. I was disappointed in the very first white that I planted. I cant even remember what it is bc it was so long ago and the label has since disintegrated. It has an offwhite pink tinge to it and I was looking for pure white. However, now that I have the white that I had been searching for (Sugar Moon), rather than take away from the garden it adds variety, and I am actually very happy with the result. The flowers on this rose is much smaller however grows in greater flourishes (oftentimes growing in clusters). SM is a taller rose usually with an elegant stem while this rose is more bushy with smaller leaves and flowers. I see the addition of PJP competing with SM more than this little guy.
I'm about 40 miles from you, less coastal influence. The only disease I get with PJPII is rust in the fall. An awful lot of roses rust in the fall here. It blooms heavily in several cycles over the season.
All this does not mean that Sugar Moon may not also be a fine rose. There is more than one excellent rose in each category. HTs are not my main focus and I only have a few. But PJPII is definitely my favorite white. YMMV, and that is as it should be.
Rosefolly
In England, roses are almost always sold budded. In marginal conditions, it makes a big, enormous, incredible difference. I don't bother with own-root Austins any more, and invariable, nice specimens posted here from the northeast are grafted.
Also, remember DA is the person who recommends his roses be grown in groups of three. Most people here consider that some sort of sick joke. I have always suspected there is some truth to it.
I am not expecting winterkill to be part of the issue.
Most roses including Austins are budded onto Dr. Huey rootstock. What I've seen in my acidic soils is that Dr. Huey doesn't like acidic soils, and (think about the alkalin playa lake beds they are produced in, in Wasco California) and read about Dr. Huey doing best in alkalin soils.
Then look at all the multilflora that grows in Rhode Island and Connecticut. That Mulitiflora loves acidid soils.
The failure to thrive may be as simple as being the wrong rootstock for the garden.
Wow, I take for granted that I don't have deer problem. This is one of the reason why I like this forum, to see what people around the world faces as they grow our favourite rose. Having said that, your roses are quite the gems on the crown in your garden.
They seem to be gone...over a dozen just flew away. But! I'm keeping my eye on this ewwww- ugly earwig and letting him have his way with this bloom to see if he is eating unseen pests or will destroy my flower. Can't see him here, but the dark specks are probably his " debris". Blagh.
I definitely like dark red. My friend's Black Magic has very small blooms, but perhaps it's not mature. It's about 3.5 feet tall and in a pot. I think it will take off nicely once planted in the ground. The Colorific is beautiful, but I will admire it in my friend's garden. Thanks for helping me decide. These decisions are tough, but part of the fun of rose growing :)
Hi Hello! I noticed you didn't get a huge response to your Q, and wondered if you might have better luck if you reposted it on the Antique Roses Forum. There's often a wider choice amongst the older roses when disease-resistance, easy-care and great perfume are all important factors.
Your combination of specifications is actually a little tricky, which may be part of the reason for a shortage of suggestions here. For example, good/reliable repeat bloom PLUS rosehips is not very common - off the top of my head, I can't actually think of ANY climbers or ramblers that do this; and hips often don't set reliably anyway unless there's a chilly winter - being in Australia, I'm not sure if you get that in Alabama. However, there ARE a number of other options for attracting/helping wildlife, so long as you don't use insecticides and other poisons; for example, in Spring some birds may stop by for a tasty snack of aphids, and bees will enjoy single and semi-double flower-types - the kind where you can see the stamens in the middle. Birds will sometimes nest in a big thick rambler, too.
You don't state the size (height and width) of your privacy fence/the area you want this rose to cover - I would suggest adding that, plus the maximum depth out from the fence that's available in this spot. Also, for folks like me (and there are a few of us), if you could give more detailed info on your climate, that would be a great help - your US Zone if you know it, average Summer and Winter temperature range and some indication of when/how much humidity and rain you get (I'm thinking Alabama = fairly steamy!??).
So, my advice is, try posting again on the ARF, including those extra details, and I'm sure the combined brains of all the crazy rose nuts/experts on there will be able to come up with a great solution for you - perhaps with just a teeny bit of compromise on your full list of specs. They'll also be able to help with any queries you may have about when and where to buy, planting and maintenance of your new baby! Good luck!
Comtesse :¬)
Every variety has it's own internal bloom cycle timing so if they're the same variety they would probably have about the same bloom time. That may vary some by location but would probably be fairly close in most cases. If they're purchased in approximately the same size and condition and planted at the same time it stands to reason they would bloom around the same time. If they were purchased at different times they may not sync until the next spring when they would be starting out in the same conditions.
Good point Seil. In my garden I've had Belinda's Dream in various areas all planted on different years and as soon as I say blooms in one, all the others bloomed at the same time. Today I was walking around the yard and I'm taken aback by a red rose. When I look, it's Alec's Red. I keep tending to the garden when I come across another impressive red. Low and behold, the red rose is also Alec's red. I find this fascinating. My wonder, and the reason I posted this, is to learn whether others have had the same experience.
I've noticed that a lot of the newer roses aren't showing up on there too. Or if they do there are no photos. Yet if I Google it photos show up on other places. I'm not sure what the reason is either.
If you have a new release rose please go and put some photos on there for the rest of us. If it's not there you can go to the "missing plant" tab and add it. I agree with Mariannese, it's important!
Since you said you are in SoCal, Otto and Sons in Fillmore (take I5 to the 126 west or 101 to 126 east) has 157 instock and in 5g pots. They are having rose days in a couple of weeks (the post card is around here somewhere) they are pricey, $45 but they often have some kind of deal and the DA pots are pretty nice to reuse. This weekend is Tomatomania
You might want to bring a bigger car/truck....it can be very hard to leave with just one plant. (they have Butterscotch Staked too)
From their data it appears that one has to be very careful not to add too much of the 2 chemicals. This link contains a Molar solution concentration calculator:
http://www.physiologyweb.com/calculators/molar_solution_concentration_calculator.html
I have a big bone to pick with soil tests when they tell you the "soil type" of your soil in a residential setting. A few years back I lived on the eastern side of my state & now I live on the western side of my state. At both locations I tested my soils & received a report that said I had "loam" with very similar compositions. Yet when I dug fence post holes at each location I found 2 extremely different soils. My eastern garden had sticky red clay starting 12' down & that lawn had terrible poor drainage problems in low areas after a rainy spell, sometimes standing water for several days. Post holes in my western garden revealed pure sand at 12" & deeper. No matter how hard it rains here, I & the neighbors never have standing water 30 minutes after the rain stops. The reason for this is that most homes have truck loads of black loam hauled in so your house can have a nice lawn. This is frequently the soil that home owners are testing for their gardens. I strongly encourage you to dig some deeper holes to determine what's underneath the top 4-8" of your lawn. These deeper soils will have an impact on water, organic & nutrient holding capacities and your pH.
Hi wirosarian_z4b_WI,
I removed the top several inches of soil so the sample I sent to the lab was from 4-8 inches deep.
When I bought my condo new in 1972, the flower bed (in the common-area) was 25 feet long by 2 feet wide (50 square feet). Over the years, I've expanded the flower bed into the common-area lawn so the flower bed is now 25 feet long by 18 feet wide (almost 400 square feet).
The condo board said it's OK that the expanded garden is in the common-area but I'm responsible for maintaining the garden (i.e., prune and fertilize the shrubs, weed the garden, etc). The watering is still done by the common-area sprinklers.
I think this rose was just released this year. So no one would have experience with it yet. I've ordered it for this year.