22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
In climates where roses carry leaves through the winter, there will be some natural shedding of senile leaves in spring. Usually when a leaf turns uniform bright yellow, or yellow mottled green, it's just because the rose has decided to kill it off. Crowded or heavily shaded leaves may be dropped in summer. I doubt you can have blackspot without black spots.
annofpa: I kept my tree roses in about 15 gallon insulated pots. I start my regular potted roses depending on their size in black nursery pots or whatever is available lol. If they are grafted plants I put them in 7.5 gallon size then pot up from there as needed. Ideally, I try to get the roses potted on into large insulated pots to prevent the roots from getting too hot here. I have a hand truck that I use to move pots. Its the best thing I ever bought dh so I could steal it and use it for plants lol :D
~sjn
I also picked up CI in one of my body bag orgies. I also just bought a Mr. Lincoln as a replacement for one that died, it's my husband's favorite. So far all of my bagged roses are doing fine. Even the JFK one I bought that was in rough shape. I think getting them watered and potted right away is a key. I've even soaked them in the bag and left them like that for a bit.
Watering every 3 - 4 days may have washed out most of that fertilizer by now. You could do fish emulsion at half-strength once a week. Osmocote works well in pots too.
BUT: have they bloomed yet? If not, then water is sufficient enough for now (they are happily growing roots, and they need roots before blooms), fertilize after the first bloom cycle.
I alternate between stuff like fish fertilizer and compost teas and stuff like MG and MG bloom boosters etc. I have tons of brugmansia which are very heavy feeders and will eat up anything I can throw at them. I do not mix up separate batches so whatever I am feeding them, I just do the same for all the other stuff too. I have potted roses that get quite a bit of fertilizer and I have not had any problems. I use plastic pots not clay and they get watered several times between fertilizer applications. Also, make sure to never fertilize a dry pot. Always water about a half hour before you fertilize. I killed a rose many years ago by putting fertilizer on a very dry rose lol. Completely fried it!! Never forgot that lesson.
~sjn
In this photo, the Julia Child roses and the peonies (pretty well over blooming and not looking good) are planted on a fairly steep slope, looking down our front sidewalk. The peonies were planted a year before the roses, and as Julia grew bigger, the peonies got more trapped. Now they bloom beautifully, and a short while after they are done, the plants get mildewy from poor air circulation due to gigantic Julia. None of roses ever get mildew, but this example does show how the peonies should be planted in front of the roses. That's not how things worked out here. The roses do wonderfully well in this bed, though. Diane
I'd say it depends on how close together they are going to be, and whether you place the peony in front, beside, or behind the rose depends on how tall the rose gets.
Here you can see a nearly finished blooming white peony (bottom right corner of pic) next to a red Eutin floribunda--both about the same size, although the Eutin will get somewhat taller as the summer goes by. That peony and rose are about 3 feet apart. There is also a short spreading mini rose is growing in front of that peony; it is about 1.5 ft away from the peony.
If you look down at the end of that bed, appearing to lean over the driveway (it doesn't really), there is another peony, done blooming. To the left of it is the pink Pomponell rose bush. They are about 3 ft apart also, and as the summer goes by, the Pomponel will grow taller than the peony, although at peony blooming time they are roughly the same size.
Both the peonies are placed so that they get plenty of air space and therefore don't mildew, but the rose bushes next to them and growing larger as the season progresses help mask them a bit, drawing attention to the blooming rose rather than the bloomless peony. Since my peonies do not mildew, they look like nice green bushes most of the summer, although they can get a bit ratty looking in autumn--but I just start trimming them back then.
Hope that helps.
Kate
Hmmm. They have a bunch of PINATAs at Lowes in 3gal pots. The opening blooms were quite striking. Maybe I should go back and pick one up! I have a non-climbing TALISMAN and it definitely doesn't get a lot of yellow on it, let alone a bright yellow!
I'm sure RVR will replace it.
The first year you have these roses, don't cut the rose stems more then half way. Let the bush's grow and put some size under the blooms. Vino Rosso is the only one that I'm not familiar with. The Kords roses will get fairly tall but can be kept to 4 or 5 ft tall. It will probably take 2 or 3 years to get good width to them. I've heard some grumbling about the bloom size of Vino Rosso not being any bigger the a medium size florabunda bloom. It's supposed to have beautiful flower form with good stems under the bloom. It's major selling point. I know Winter Sun is a beautiful yellow with good stems and great foliage. Of the 4, I pretty sure Beverly is going to be your biggest bloom. Winter Sun should out bloom them all and Grand Amore will grow on you the more it blooms. More then anything, always stop to smell the roses and enjoy each bloom off each bush that you grow.
kingcobbtx9b, please comment on my statement/suggestion that: "Look to see if you have mycorrhizal fungi attached to your roots. If so, fine, work on other aspects of rose gardening. If they are not there investigate why as their presence will benefit your roses.".
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Marlorena-z8 England- stated: " ...when you consider the millions of roses planted all down the centuries without it... and all over the world... yet all of a sudden, this is a must have...."
H.Kuska comment: Yes, and those growers were using what we now call "organic methods". i.e. for centuries rose growers did not use synthetic fungicides and synthetic fertilizers. One of my favorite comments is that many rose growers now are attempting to grow roses in what I describe as soil that resembles a chemical dump.
Tebuconazole appears to be the "IN" fungicide for many of the chemically orientated rose growers. Yet, tebuconazole is a known potent inhibitor of strigolactone biosynthesis https://www.jstage.jst.go.jp/article/jpestics/38/3/38_D13-011/_html
For further information about strigolactone biosynthesis see: http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1369526614000867
"Strigolactones (SLs) are plant hormones that regulate shoot branching as well as known as root-derived signals for parasitic and symbiotic interactions."
"
Yes I agree with that completely. My comment about Placebo effect was merely meaning that most established gardens should have their own already unless of course there is an issue. If you don't have it naturally adding it without correcting the issue isn't going to do you any good.