21,400 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

Yes indeed - I practically wet my knickers on coming across a citrus borer in my woods. We already have the large saperda poplar borer (have weekly frass inspections) and had to report it to Defra immediately.
Global food networks and cheap air travel - we are reeling from chalara decimating our ash trees (Dutch Elm all over again) - no cure.
Will be going a little crazy with the chainsaws..........

Once we started going to the University Library and reading plant pathology papers (and getting distracted by other articles in those journals), we started wondering what food supplies were going to be available in a couple of hundred years, if not in a couple of decades.
Then we drove out to Missouri and the monocultural agriculture out there started scaring us big time.
(Anybody ever wonder if the rubber ducks used in the 'races' that are used as money raisers are sterilized of zebra mussel larvae as they are moved between rivers?)

If there is an ant nest under the rose, it could create excessively fast drainage. This is not usually harmful and the rose roots will work around it, but it could have an effect on a new plant.
If you give 2 gallons twice a week, that should be more than adequate under normal conditions. Frequent sprinkling is not a good approach.


I never heard the term "bud blast" before for the disorder pictured in the link. Rose gardeners usually call it "balling" and attribute it to rain. As the article says, it is a botrytis fungal infection that spreads in cool weather with rain or fog. However, it does not cause wilted necks and blackened buds as described by the OP.
In the case of rose curculio, I would expect to find buds opening with many small holes in the petals, These are caused by the bug's needle-like proboscis piercing the bud while it is tightly furled. This pest is common in parts of California and occasional in my area. It can cause wilted necks as Lyn's link shows.
This post was edited by michaelg on Wed, Jun 11, 14 at 9:35

I order from ARE and Chamblees. I have not ordered from CHamblees for a few years since I have found what I want at ARE.
I am glad your Reines de Violettes is doing well. Mine is struggling, yet many of my roses are not thriving this year. I cannot blame our weather, and my neglect on the nursery.
Many people go to one of these nurseries from our area, and purchase the roses directly. I do believe that the plants that they can purchase in person are much larger than what they ship.
Sammy

Sammy - Thank you. I do hope your roses start doing better soon. Mine are doing better since our recent rains. I am excited about ARE and Chamblees both and am looking forward to ordering from them. I'm sure Rose Petals Nursery is also a good source.


This is the bloom after it opens. Petite, bright pompons that catch your eye all the way across the yard. The flowers last forever and it seems like there's always a couple blooms on the bush. Fragrant too!
Vintage wrote "We now feel that (General Allard) is incorrect, though this rose has much in common with the real General Allard. Our current view is that this may be a seedling of General Allard, possibly even the very famous rose, Mme. Laffay." a.k.a. Morgan St. Pompon. I know it's probably not correct, but I call her Madame Laffay. She needs a feminine name, such a little flirt.



Thank you so much.
Seil, I didn't think about the summer aspect of growing in containers. Got all excited when they started to bloom before the ones in the ground.
That's why I am here, I am glad I found the right place to get advise.
You are very correct, summer will be brutal on the ones in the container. I would love to read the paper you did, will send you my email.
Thanks, Madri

CossecaRose - glad to be of help and very timely for your alfalfa use in your own garden. As Eleanor Roosevelt said, "Learn from the mistakes of others - you can't live long enough to make them all yourself". Of course in my case, there's the quote, "Good decisions come from experience. Unfortunately, experience usually comes from bad decisions."
You're right Susanne that this was a collection of unfortunate events, but I'm vowing not to do the same next year, or even for the remainder of this one. And thanks for the allowance of one major mistake at least per year Hoovb guilt-free, and for helping to redirect some of the guilt. I still think folks like CossecaRose in zone 3 have it way tougher than I do, since most if not all of the HTs simply won't survive that cold without hauling inside protection for the winter, and I can get away with even teas if I'm careful. Still we do have our challenges in Nebraska, but at least for the time being we have plenty of water. A major storm headed for our area missed us thankfully, so we may actually have a whole dry week to recover.
Thanks again everyone!
Cynthia

Well drained soil is good but that also will mean they'll need to be kept watered more frequently and because of that they'll also need to be fertilized more frequently. Because the water drains down and out the pot it takes nutrients from the soil with it.
Cynthia gave you some very good ideas for winterizing. If yo can fit them in your garage that's usually the best because it's a little warmer inside there and it protects them from the wind and drying canes. And you do need to water them all winter. Even though they're dormant you do not want them to get too dry or they'll die. Dessication can kill a rose as quickly and easily as freeze damage can.

Welcome! Yes, some colors can be affected by pH and nutrient levels, but pure pink isn't Beauty Secret. It could either be misnamed or it could be Copy Cat, the pink sport (mutation) of Beauty Secret. Take a look at the link below and see if that could be your pink rose. I wonder if their "Cracker Rose Pink" could be the found rose called "Pink Cracker"? Louis Philippe isn't a mini any more than Cracker Rose is. You can look them up on Help Me Find- Roses, the link I posted below. Yes, you can use the tomato fertilizer you have for your roses. Roses can't read. Vermiculite slows drainage and actually breaks down into a clay material. Perlite increases drainage. Just use your regular all purpose potting soil without adding anything to it. You aren't growing cactus, which requires much more drainage than roses. You haven't indicated what size pots you intend to use, but make sure they are large enough to insulate the roots against the heat from sun shining directly on their sides. Too small and you can easily cook them on a hot day, even in Iowa. They also need a large enough size to hold enough water for you to not have to constantly water them. Kim
Here is a link that might be useful: Copy Cat


That's not RRD growth. It might be something weather related and left over from this bad winter and spring. I'd let them bloom and then cut those canes back and hope the plant grows out more evenly. Dead head those old blooms off the lower growth too. Dead heading and pruning will signal the plant to start growing again. Otherwise, they look pretty healthy. Good job!

No need to treat for mites and thrips--there's no sign of them. If you had mites, the treatment would just be to spray underneath the leaves repeatedly with water. It's unusual to find thrips being bad enough to require treatment. Agains, the image doesn't suggest thrips to me.
Also my roses do well without extra fancy soil. Obviously you need to get rid of any large rocks. If your soil is sandy, the best additive is clay in the form of plain kitty litter, between 10 and 15% of the volume. Then did in some manure and maintain an organic mulch that will rot into the soil over the years. If your soil is clay, just add manure and avoid compacting it when it is wet.

HSOB, as long as your native soil is good enough to grow healthy plants and has good drainage I would not worry about using fancy soils...
Unless you plan on creating raised beds for your roses...
No need to treat for anything until you identify your exact problem...

I doubt it too with commercial mulch and their composted temperatures. I am concerned that another vector for this disease might be aphids as they mimic the mites in terms of their sucking parts of the sap.
Currently from what I understand, there is not enough research money or someone setting up a scientific study to determine if aphids are another vector of this disease.

I bought a bunch of bags of mulch this weekend. I forgot to put out two of them. So last night I opened them and put them down. The mulch was so HOT!. I hope that killed all the weeds I put it over.
Those bags sit out in the sun at Home Depot or whatever. I'm not sure the mites could survive that. But still, don't put a RRD bush in the landfill or compost!

That is the first time I have ever seen a full-grown bush of George Burns. Had no idea it would be so lovely and floriferous!
As to the weak branches practically lying on the ground, just look around the yard for a twiglet of the right size that has fallen from a tree and carefully position it under the weak branch as you gently raise it to a more upright position. The twiglet will be hardly noticeable, and the weak branch will appreciate being able to lean on the twiglet.
I often do that for my new baby roses.
kate


Very cool.
I've never had any big number of aphids on the roses after the buds start opening on the first flush. They just clear out. It seems the plants don't get serious about defending themselves until the flowers are threatened.
Good news! I 've never really worried too much about aphids. They seem to have their time and then go away pretty much on their own.