22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Thanks Ingrid, although the layout looks formal, I'm just using it as a guide. And the spot isn't that big, about 25 feet, so I'm sure after a few years, it will be filled with plants and the lines won't be that visible. I also tried to think of the colors in the original design, that's why I have a yellow rose in the middle.
Right now it's just a bunch of overgrown junipers (in the back of this picture) so this will be an improvement.
I'd use iris or daylilly clumps (or dianthus and lillies) where you have the forsythia, and I'd do the small false cypress for the evergreens. They'll get bigger than they list where you are, I bet. I use one called snow (or snow-something) that is perfect with my roses :) It's white variegated, to go with my silvers.
The upright sedums make nice low borders for most of the year (I use the white variegated). Not winter, though. If thyme grows well for you, an upright version might do great. I can't ever grow it or lavender for more than a season or two, though. Too humid, maybe? Meh, I use dianthus (Williams, I think) a lot for short little borders, and they don't spread too quickly and bloom all the time, so I don't mind that they aren't so great in winter. There are some low grasses that look good in winter. Caryopteris is evergreen enough here, but it gets so big that that didn't work there (ditto rosemary).
Oh! The 'snow-something' little 'cedars' I have and love turn too brown in winter for my tastes. So make sure to get an evergreen that changes to a nice winter color or keeps its usual color. People always ask if mine got frosted out :( It isn't till spring that they turn so pretty again.
Such fun! Good luck, y'all!
It looks like some weed tree I have in my yard in the land of poison ivy here, but I always have my local PI to compare it to, lol. My PI isn't as serrated. It's definitely not hairy here when young.
The PI has brighter colors this time of year, too, so it's easier to tell apart now.
I wasn't allergic my whole life, but one day of pulling it up by its roots changed all that! Be careful that all y'all don't give yourselves the allergy like I did :) I got a hideous case from that day, too, so it was miserable.
Sure looks like poison ivy as I know it. I see it often, and if it's near a plant I want to keep, I just put a few drops of round-up on the leaves. I had to get medical help once after pulling up roots I did not recognize. I also had a colleague who spent 3 days in intensive care before they got it under control. I does not always vine, and it looks different depending on the time of year, I mostly find it on the ground hiding under other plants.
Here is a link that might be useful: CDC Poison Ivy
Late last Autumn, I noticed a few of my roses had stems which snapped or broke completely off. I simply stuck them in the ground right next to the originals, putting about half of the stem length below the soil surface. I did nothing else to them until Spring, when I figured "why not?" and dug them out and potted them up. They didn't root much (or at all) over Winter this way, but rather they mostly "stayed asleep" and didn't dry out. It was more like "cold storage" until I decided to see if they'd grow in pots. The roses were random -- two Bourbons, 'Cardinal de Richelieu', "Darlow's Enigma", and 'Mme Laurette Messimy'.
I get much faster results by twice slicing the bottom inch or two of an almost-pencil-thick stem, dipping it in rooting hormone powder, potting them up, and leaving them where they get morning sun and bright shade thereafter. But that was this year's experiments -- I haven't yet had to overwinter any once they started rooting this way.
:-)
~Christopher
I can imagine a few design ideas where I think onesies would look pretty. But typically, if I'm doing onesies of anything, it's either THE focal point of the garden, or I'm trialing to see what performs best in that setting. Once I've ascertained what does best, I like to use a lot of the same, whether the particular plant is massed, as in a hedge, or scattered throughout. Three different varieties of roses is kind of a magic number for me in terms of a maximum, since I think a triad creates a rich color scheme. But I'll want to use a lot of each of those three varieties, for a restful, harmonious garden.
That said, I'm a big believer in the concept that "imagination rules" in design, and that you should create what you love.
jannike
I think it depends upon your garden style too. I'm growing a cottage garden striving for a "Giverny" vibe. My garden is so small I only need one rose to provide that SPLOTCH of color. There are very few roses I grow to make a focal point. Those are climbers, pillars, arches or growing through tress. I need the eye to be drawn upward as there is so little ground space and what is there needs to be varied.
I used to dream of having a huge garden of roses that I could meander around and throughâ¦.now I realize I have got all (and possibly MORE THAN) I can handle.
Jannike, what are you growing in triads of different varieties?
Susan
Knock-outs will grow quite large if not pruned in the spring. Last winter the weather pruned mine for me and they are now about two feet high. Cut back hard in early spring before growth begins and they will remain manageable.
Avoid pruning on any plant at this time of year if you are in an area that has freezing weather. When plants are cut, they respond by sending out new growth. You do not want tender, new growth going into cold weather.
As a landscaper myself, I can say I would never plant something that has thorns, barbs, prickles, etc., near an entrance.
The problem with using a landscaper from a nursery is that they will often use the plants that they have in stock, not necessarily the plants that are best for your situation.
Linda
Do not hesitate to cut the thorny canes away from the entrance at any time of year. In spring you can prune them to 2 x 2 or 3 x 3 , and after each flush of bloom you can cut the stems back a foot or so. I wouldn't move them unless they are centered less than 2' from the walk. It is not hard to keep KOs around 3' wide, especially in zones 7-5. If your plants want to be more than 4' wide, maybe they are some other variety.
Thanks so much for your quick responses! I got home late from work tonight so I haven't been able to dig down and see if it's rootstock or not. I will take a look and add some pictures tomorrow of the odd growth I've been seeing. Im probably paranoid after reading all of the posts about RRD. It's such a relief though! This is one of my favorite roses.
IIRC, St. Cecilia doesn't have flat, hooked thorns, so it is probably a rootstock sucker. Dr. Huey does have this type of thorns.
I lost my St. Cecilia to RRD a couple of years ago, but I've forgotten exactly what the bad growth looked like. However, I'm pretty sure the pictured cane is not RRD.
It's not a good idea to prune roses in the fall in cold climates. It they need some clean up of dead wood early spring is the best time. During the season if they're getting a little too big you can shape them and cut them back some when you dead head the spent blooms. Otherwise just a little fertilizer now and then and water when needed.
Thanks for all the input. I'm still having a difficult time with this. If there are disease spores on the plants, they will almost certainly be on the canes also. I find it unbelievable that removing the leaves would remove all disease spores. If disease spread during transit is an issue, wouldn't it be easier to spray the plants with a fungicide, or better yet, an anti-transpirant (which also inhibits disease spread)? Seems like it would be much less labor intensive than stripping leaves.
Oh well, I guess the proof is in the pudding. I'll be planting these guys tomorrow and we'll see how well they root in and grow next year.
skmiller asked: "I thought roses likes air circulation and doesn't like to be next to anything.... Do you have to prune the Clematis and the Rose often. Do you have to worry that one will dominate the other and try to kill it, due to aggressiveness."
The trellis is 10-12" away from the wall and when I prune and train it in the late winter I don't let anything grow in the gap behind it. I think that helps. I've also chosen a more disease resistant rose. I'm still figuring out the clematis (and the roses!) I do a major pruning on the rose in late winter when I train it on the trellis and the rest of the year other than whacking it back when some part of it is annoying me that late winter pruning is all I do. New Dawn is a very vigorous rose so I don't worry too much about anything challenging it.
The clematis I haven't been very particular about. The only time I mess with it is at the late winter pruning of the roses and some of it gets taken out as well. On pruning clematis you have to figure out what "type" it is to know what to do with it--so it depends on which clematis you end up with. Then google is your friend.
New Dawn is a vigorous, thorny mess that doesn't give me much repeat bloom. I have a love hate relationship with her. Right now the hate part is winning--and I'm close to ripping her out and trying a different climber there!
Sara Ann,
You're so sweet to post another pic for me! That one looks almost exactly the color of the blooms that I initially posted now that they have aged some. They have that almost lavender hue that lower petals are showing in your latest picture. I think we have another rose in common now :)
Onewheeler thank you for your respond!!! I have already orderd form them. Thank to you!!!!
Glad I could help. Enjoy your rose.
Valerie