21,401 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

I usually do not fertilize first year roses I plant in the ground.
But if you do maybe wait until after it blooms then just use a fraction of the amount of liquid fertilizer it calls for in the directions since the rose probably is smaller...

It's a coretta scott king grandiflora. From what I understand they are new this year. Seil thank you for the info . I had clay type soil but I dug out about a 3x3x3 spot and filled with 2/3 topsoil and 1/3 compost/manure blend. The rest of my plants have adapted but I want my roses to have perfect conditions. I have researched everything else pretty heavy but I couldn't find anything on the leaves

That is really good to know about Eden being a somewhat finicky rose depending on the area. That is another lovely picture. My mother-in-law and father-in-law visited Vancouver Island and showed my gorgeous pictures. Even though these are not good roses for your area, I'm sure there are so many stunning roses that you are able to grow that I can't. I'm really hoping the Eden and Balero will both do well for me. Does BS stand for Black Spot? I'm sorry, I'm really new to growing roses. The only rose I've ever grown before recent is the iceberg rose... which is an amazing rose for my area. It performs like none other. Here's a picture of it growing at my old house where it was grown in under a patio cover, so it didn't get the ideal amount of sun... yet it still bloomed almost year round for me.


BS is blackspot, yes. It is not a debilitating disease in Southern California. In other climates especially east of the Rockies, it can be so devastating as to kill a rose, because the rose cannot hold any foliage, goes into a harsh winter weak, and doesn't survive the winter. Here it's a minor annoyance, mostly in rainy winters.

Thank you every one, you guys are all so wonderful. Thanks Bonnie and Buford, thats a great idea to join the rose society. I did join a local rose society this year. I seem to have been bitten by the rose bug badly and buying rose bushes like crazy. Ordered from roses unlimited and got roses from Palatine roses this spring.
For people in zone 5 and colder, palatine roses has a good selection, they are grown in Canada, weather similar to zone 5 ( got to know about them through the local rose society) They are grafted bare root roses, but their roots are very robust.
For some reason my roses in containers are doing better than the ones in the ground. Will post pictures shortly.
Madri.

I know what you mean, bart. I always strategically plant 1-2 trees in the southwest corner and 1-2 trees somewhere along the western property line. Those spots give the best shade from our boiling hot late-afternoon/August sun. The flowers and bushes are planted in between or under the trees (shade plants) or to the east of the trees (which cast long shadows after 4:00 in the afternoon).
Morning sun is a whole different ball-game--take advantage of all the morning sun you can get.
Kate

I grow a lot of Knockout roses (200+), and many of them(150+) are under four Spruce pine trees, I cut down the lower branches for the sunlight, and they're are doing very well, I water them once a day during the hot and dry summer days (above 75ðF/24ðC). The hottest day here is under 90ðF/32ðC. They're wonderful landscaping roses, fill your gardens with colors, so my old garden roses can just take their time with no hurry....... :-)
This post was edited by Summerseve on Mon, Jun 9, 14 at 0:01


It looks splendid! I use soaker hoses too. I have a couple of beds that I have no way of running drip to and it's a little too pricey for me anyway so I did the soaker hoses instead. The roses do respond wonderfully to having a steady supply of water. I think in another recent thread someone else said the same thing. The most important ingredient seems to be water!

The blooms that were on it at the store were probably set in cooler conditions or in a greenhouse. That's why they were larger. Now that it's getting hotter where you are the blooms will naturally be smaller in size. The heat is probably also why the edges look a little burnt. Roses love sunshine but are not fond of high heat and will burn.
Without seeing a picture of the leaf damage I can't say what is eating them. Try blasting the undersides of the leaves with a hard spray of water and see if that helps. The yellow leaves at the bottom could just be old leaves that have served their purpose and are no longer feeding the plant so they die off and the plant sheds them.
Keep it well watered and when it starts to get very hot find a way to shade it. Even a lawn chair over it to keep some of the sun off will help.
If there is new growth you can go ahead and fertilize it but be careful. You don't want to burn it further. You can use any good balanced fertilizer, dry or liquid, organic or not, but maybe just start it out at half strength. Be sure to follow all other directs carefully. Water the rose before fertilizing and then again afterwards. Water helps the plant take up the nutrients. Do not fertilize if temperatures are above 80 degrees. Do it early in the morning or in the evening when the sun is less strong.
Roses are amazingly resilient and want to grow so most of all fret less and enjoy more!

As Seil said, this is probably transplant shock involving stronger sunlight and maybe disturbance of the roots. All you need to do is keep it watered but not saturated. In moderately warm weather, I water transplants thoroughly every three days. Fertilizing makes it harder for struggling plants to take up water.


I have paired the 2 grandifloras 'Strike It Rich' and 'About Face' next to each other on a western exposure where I had two huge 'Blue Muffin' viburnums that got out of hand for the space!! I am hoping that the two roses eventually get to about 5' high and about 3' wide. Yes, there will be space between them once they grow to maturity. Both were purchased from Roses Unlimited in April and I was lucky to have found them so late in the season. Most people who want a particular rose start ordering from online website in January/December to get their choices.

Down hill is better. The roots shouldn't want to travel up hill to the bed to get water and nutrients. Although they might! I'd still make it as far as possible away from the roses though.
Yes, roses are "shrubs" but they are also bloomers. Where most other types of shrubs are not or only once a season bloomers. Those will take the rest of the whole season to store enough energy to produce next years bloom. For roses to bloom repeatedly they need food, a lot of food. If they don't get enough sun, water and nutrients they'll grow adequately but they may not bloom at all.
I don't know anything about the root structure of Cypress trees so I can't say but trees in general will spread roots as far as they can, and the easiest they can, to get what they want. A nice tilled, watered and fertilized rose bed will be very attractive to them.

maybe not the answer you are looking for, and you probably thought of this already, but what about putting the roses in containers? Yes, they would have to be big, but then you could monitor the water/food situation, and move them if the trees are blocking them too much. I am picturing it in my mind and it is sure beautiful, big pots of roses between the Italian cypress. You have such a good selection of terracotta there in Italy too.


So true, Cross! I never trust the company hype any more. Early on I fell for several of those ad campaigns only to find the roses didn't perform anything like they said. I don't even trust the photos! But I've found that HMF really does try to give a true description of the rose in question. And the comments on the photos posted by the gardeners themselves of their actual experiences with a rose are invaluable! That's why I try to post photos and comments regularly.

Thank you Jim, Carol and Sammy. Sammy, I do believe my Perfume Delights are doing fine, I do appreciate your post, some good info..
Carol, I can't remember if you already have Perfume Delight or not. I was looking back at some old pictures and came across one of my Perfume Delights in a container and it was loaded with buds and blooms. It helped me remember that when I had one in a container it really was an excellent bloomer.
This post was edited by Sara-Ann on Sun, Jun 8, 14 at 7:18

Olympiad planted last year has got everything right except fragrance. Firefighter in front was he runt before it went in the ground and then has grown like crazy. Chrysler Imperial started off good, got attacked by mildew and has been in a funk since. All the other HT have started another growth spurt.



Nick - Good luck with your Love Song, it is a beautiful rose and hopefully yours will do fine, I think you will really enjoy it, it's a good bloomer. Love your picture desertgarden. Boncrow, both of mine have good repeat bloom. This bloom was from my recent spring flush.






My choice is DEER. The local rose garden in the park had a HUGE deer problem until they had a twelve foot fence installed. Now the garden is lovely all year. If it is a chain link fence the deer can see what there is to eat and will happily leap a five foot fence.
It sounds exactly like what happened in my yard a few years ago. I fenced my front yard in. We pay through the nose in taxes for the previlege of living in one of the heavily regulated jurisdictions in the U.S. so the fence naturally cannot be go higher than 6 feet and cannot be anything less than cast iron or alumium under town ordinance. And of course that it does not work. To show their contempt at my feeble attempt to thwart them, a herd of day left an extraordinary amount of fecal matters on my walkway a few days after the fence was put in. So, in addition to the fence, I have been using a combination of Repellex (which supposeldy makes the roses taste bad to critters) and lots and lots of Milorganic (made from raw sewage, the stink is what supposedly repells deer). So far, so good. But I am knocking on wood as it only takes one deer to destroy my rose reason...