22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Rootstocks of grafted hybrid teas from 2011 are almost all either 'Dr. Huey' or multiflora. The OP can tell which by looking at the foliage. Dr. H is dark and glossy, while multiflora is lighter green and matte. Multiflora is useless as a garden plant. Dr. H is pretty in spring, but, in eastern North America, it will be bloomless and naked from blackspot all summer and fall unless it is sprayed every two weeks.
This post was edited by michaelg on Thu, Oct 2, 14 at 9:31
I'm not rereading the whole thread to see if it was posted here, nor do I remember where the information came from, but fairly recently a science-based source indicated that exposure to the sun actually does encourage new growth from old wood. Previously I had suspected this was one of the many false beliefs that gardeners share with each other, but not so. Thus, prune to open the center, pull back the mulch a little bit, and if necessary remove crowded lower leaves. Of course these actions would have no effect on a buried graft, but shoots from low on a thick cane are nearly as good.
Otherwise it's mostly a matter of keeping the plant happy with good basic nutrition and watering. Basal canes are more likely to be produced during mild weather in spring and fall. Rejuvenation pruning where you remove 1/4 or 1/3 of the canes at the base will encourage basal growth. But some plants just won't cooperate. Currently I have an old hybrid tea with only two basal canes. It's still very productive, but eventually I may have to take it down to nothing in order to rejuvenate it (or maybe ruin it).
Michael, I may have posted that. I have noticed that a graft or root ball exposed to sun will throw off more basals. Sometimes taht happens when a rose is cut down to the graft, or in the late winter/early summer when there is no leaves on trees and no shade. I get full southern exposure in my front yard and I get some basals breaking in December and January, I try to protect them so they last. I'm not always successful.
I love the idea of flat priced roses ! How nice to be able to order just one , or 5 and know what you are paying before you total it all up. Sometimes I didn't want to order because I felt I needed to order a few to get my monies worth of shipping . Now no need to even think of that .
And 25$ is sometimes below my local nursery charge for roses I am not even interested in!
Thanks for alerting us to the changes and I'm going to stArt working on my Christmas Wish list now ! :)
I had a small infestation of beetles a while back. While trying to see if I could find them, I saw two in the process of mating - I'm guessing they were the original culprits. I quickly took my sandal, flicked them off to the sidewalk, and squished them. So far, no new injuries! But I'm vigilant; I'll probably dust with cayenne pepper later on when it's less wet.
The only method I have ever used and I have used many to rid of these Japanese Beetles is to use a bug zapper within 5 feet of the roses or whatever they end up feeding on. They are like thrips, once they start feeding on something and know where it is they tell all their buddies, and their offspring. They will continue to come back even if you eradicate them with soap or another Biological Pesticide. This I put out right at the first sign of damage, and after a few weeks I can take it inside. Then again after about a month or so if they come back which they do- I put out the zapper again.
Works for me in Hawaii.
Thanks Michael.
Its pretty warm here with temp above 20 Celsius. Night time being 10. We are equal to zone 9 there. This has slightly spread on to other roses as well :(. I have 17 roses planted and don't want them all to get this. Should I remove the plant?
Other plants are budding and this is the worst looking with very few leaves.
Although it might survive and produce new canes from the base, I doubt it will thrive. I would replace it. Possibly the vendor would give you another. It looks like you got a plant with something wrong with it. Most US vendors would replace such a plant.
Steve ....
My neighbor above me removed all of the vegetation that used to feed what I call his private deer herd. They have been trying to move down to my part of the slope. All of the roses out in deer territory (the front of my home) are fenced, as is the back of the house where I grow most of my roses.
The deer are starving up here and are desperate for food. I had one fenced rose attacked by a doe that must have been double-jointed. She had to squeeze under a stair rail and drop down about a foot to get to the rose. How she managed to do that is a total mystery to me. I've put up fencing along the stairs, so it won't happen again.
This season, the deer have eaten ALL of my deer resistant plants down to the crown of the plants.
In a way, it is heartbreaking to see the deer with their ribs showing at this time of year. I think many of them will not make it through the winter.
That said, I am still glad my roses are caged.
Smiles,
Lyn
It looks to me like there's landscape fabric around the base. Please pull that away, remove the weeds, and add two inches of shredded bark mulch (either pine or hardwood). No fertilizer until spring. Your homework for the winter is to study various styles of trellis and decide what you prefer (and what will fit into the space allotted). Once you begin caring for your rose faithfully, it may become quite large. And welcome to the Rose forum!
Very good points and suggestions, Maria. It is critical to keep the cuttings moist for them to root but not too wet so they'll rot. A lot of people use misters for their cuttings but they can be pricey. Another way to raise the humidity around them is to take a tray, like a cake pan, and put a layer of pebbles in the bottom. Set the cups on top of the pebbles and fill the tray with water to just UNDER the bottom of the cup. You do not want the bottom of the cup to touch the sitting water. The water in the tray will evaporate and raise the humidity around the plants without getting them wet. In LV I would start these out in a shady spot for a time and then gradually move them out into the sun.
That's a very good suggestion about the tray with pebbles and water. I did it for these other two cuttings that I have managed to keep alive indoors for the last 3 months. As the heat has finally broken here, I decided to move them outside, but I'm not taking any chances. They are also very dear to me as they are from another rose plant, one that was in the ground, and thus was not able to take with me when I moved to Vegas from Oakland after my fiancee passed away. I still haven't decided whether to cut off the struggling roses last remaining green cane and try to root it, or whether to leave it on the plant in the hopes it will make it.
One of these years the mulch mound is going to really bite you. You'll have winterkill from canker near the ground that you wouldn't get if you just ignored the roses. If they are leafing out practically to the tips, they aren't getting any benefit from it.
Just do nothing to hardy roses.
Thanks, Henry.