22,796 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

Thank you everyone for all your advice! I can tell I'm going to spend a lot of time on this forum. I am an iris lover but I need something else to to tend to after they bloom and I have roses already. I have a feeling that rose growing is a lot like iris growing...you can always squeeze in one more plant.
I purchased two potted climbing roses at Ocean state job lots. It is very early for them to be out but they were 5 dollars and I have spring fever so I couldn't resist. I think I will have to wait on everything. It looked like spring was coming but I still have snow.

I'm glad you like it here, gibsongirl! We love having you! Have to laugh at your observation and you are entirely correct. There's always room for one more!
If you have an unheated garage store those two climbers in there until it's warm enough to plant. The rule of thumbs is when the forsythias bloom. That usually means the soil has warmed up enough for there to be active growth and it should be safe to plant.

IMHO the guy at the nursery is wrong. That rose needs a bigger pot. If done properly, with no disturbance to the existing root ball, it shouldn't even wilt when transplanted. Prep your new pot with soil in the bottom high enough so that the existing root ball will be at the same level, slip the root ball out of the old pot and into the new one and then fill around it with more soil and water. It should be no problem for the rose.

I saw some at Lowes, outside in freezing weather. I'm assuming they're keeping them outside, vs the unheated entryway, as they're on a stationary display. Do you think they're ok? The bud eyes are red and pushing out some growth. The canes were huge and I'm wondering how they get a big enough root system in a 3 inch cylinder tube. I haven't bought any before, but would like to try one or two.

I thought I had never done the submerged in the bag thing but now that I think of it I actually have. They come out around here way too early to plant and I've often brought some home and opened the top, poked holes in the bag and stuck them in a bucket of water in the basement to wait for planting weather. I didn't soak the canes but definitely the packaging medium.

Evelyn is one of my favorite, but the most fragrant rose in my garden is Mme. Issac Pereire. In my garden, it is a prolific spring bloomer, with a late repeat. It can get unruly and here in the wet and damp Pacific North West, black spot sets in late summer and through the fall. I just don't bother fighting it, as this rose is tough enough to spring back every year.

I will have another look at Tamora. Does she have a strong sweet scent? I was thinking of having two apricots with strong scent next to the house where i can smell them from inside on warm summer days. I think Lady Emma for one and the second, not sure.
So far I have Cr Princess M, Don Juan, Warm Welcome and Royal Gold by the house and room between a couple of them for two medium sized apricots. I thought yellow because of DJ but apricot looks better with WW and CPM and nice with the red or yellow roses. I have 6 windows open on the computer with pictures of the different roses together figuring out colours that look good next to each other and apricot seems to work. No obsession with roses in this house, ha ha!! Any thoughts?


I had thought about asking about this rose on the Forum..........I grew mine from a band - it is 4-5 years old. Have it on a fence with other climbers, excellent sun, I water regularly. the few blooms I have gotten were not impressive and quite small. It grows really well - I may have to sock the fertilizer to it. It hasn't impressed me - but not to say it couldn't. It IS very healthy! Would enjoy hearing some other comments on this one.
Judith

OK, so zone 5 is probably still quite cold and that's a good thing. Now is a very good time to make the move. In your yard as soon as you can dig your soil prepare the spot you want to put them in. Holes for planting should be at least 2 feet deep and wide. Don't add chemical fertilizer to the holes but any kind of organic materials are fine. You will need some kind of pots to put them in when you dig them out. Any kind of container or old pots you have that are big enough will work for long enough to move them. I have used ordinary wash buckets from the dollar store to keep plants in for moving. Since you will be cutting some of the roots, there really is no way to avoid that, and if the roses are quite tall you may want to prune the roses back by about half before the move. It will make them easier to handle and put less stress on the root system starting out. Dig up the roses trying to keep the root ball intact as much as possible and put them in your pots. Get them home as quick as possible and get them back in the ground. You don't want the roots to dry out. Place them in your holes and water them some. Then start back filling them and gently tamping the soil in to get out any air pockets. When done water them again. Keep them well watered but not soggy wet until you begin to see some new growth on them. Then you can go to a regular watering schedule and give them some half strength fertilizer.
Hope that helps and please ask if you have any other questions.

Another thing you can do with roses like these that want to climb or reach for the sun is to train the primary canes horizontally. You can either attach the canes to a surface behind them (like a trellis or pillar), or peg the canes to the ground in a fountain type shape. Paul Zimmerman has a nice video you can google about this. The reason they're blooming only on the end is that the rose puts its energies into the highest canes. When the main canes get horizontal, it will grow more laterals (side branches off the main canes, as Seil mentions), and those will flower a lot more along the length of the cane. You probably want to keep some primary canes unpruned with this method, if you want to encourage blooms this year, but you can always prune out underperforming canes or the oldest canes every year to increase blooms.
Cynthia

I'd prune them now before they leaf out, cut them back so they will branch out and get bushier with the summer's growth. They will still flower this year on the old wood that remains, just lower down. Since they only flower at the top, you aren't really losing any flowers by pruning them now, it's just more compact. And it'll be more self-supporting when it blooms. Long and leggy is likely to fall over in full bloom, especially when wet, or need staking.
The other thing you can do if you leave some long canes is to peg them horizontally so you get blooms along the stem. That will increase your blooms this year and you can cut them back after blooming to encourage a more bushy shape.




Yep, did mine yesterday and had comments on 263 that I currently have and have grown for years, and noticed another perhaps 200 that I have grown but don't have enough experience on to be making definitive statements. I agree with Jeri that this is really important! In several cases, I would notice a rose that is wonderful for me having basement ratings, or something that is a dog for me getting glowing ratings. Remember that the original Roses in Review ratings could be based on only a few responders, since they're often new roses without a chance to be widely grown, so it's important to adjust the ratings like they do. Of course different roses grow differently across various zones, but these ratings are intended to reflect the variety of conditions and locations for roses grown. Since the ratings get used by people around the world, I don't see any reason they wouldn't welcome your input as well, Malorena!
It's a simple process, just judging if the scores listed should be increased or decreased by various intervals. There are a lot of common roses on there - Peace, Veteran's Honor, Darlow's Enigma, Abraham Darby to mention a few - so odds are there will be a few that you grow even if you don't have a huge garden. Do it! It's also interesting to see what roses you grow or are considering are rated, even though you don't necessarily have to agree. It was reassuring to see quite a few that bit the dust unmercifully in my yard getting dreadful ratings. Maybe it's not just me (smile)
Cynthia

She is listed as Guinevere on the floribunda list on Roses Unlimited's website.


Thanks Patty W!
Thanks Seil, music to my ears! I was hoping that may be the case, even though they recommend 24 hrs with no rain (which was the plan). No leaves yet, just spraying the canes/soil. Either way, I'd have to wait a prescribed time to spray again and use a lesser amount w/water. We'll see.







Way too early to take off the collars, simply cut back the bushes to the top of the collars and wail till late April, I'm in Kenosha, we get frosts into May, so no need to hurry. I usually prune the last week of April. When you clear away the collars and prune, then spray the bare canes with Mancozeb, when your foliage comes out, start a weekly spray program, and you won't have black spot....
I use flakes of old straw mainly, I mound up as much soil as I can over the base then lean the straw against the rose in somewhat of a circle. It allows drainage but protects from cold and drying winds. I haven't lost a rose in the 10yrs I've been doing this. It also makes it easy in the spring if I want to pull it back for a bit or need to put it back up.