21,401 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

I planted one of my three final Vintage roses over the weekend, 'Frances Ashton'.
'Shower of Gold' and 'W. Freeland Kendrick' are in pots, waiting for me to prepare climber-sized spots for them.
Sad to lose Vintage, but rejoice that they were here and that we have such wonderful roses to enjoy in our gardens because of them.

very envious of those who can grow Cooper's Burmese, PekeM.....but Goldfinch is currently my absolute favourite, blooming this moment . Apart from its short bloom cycle, there is nothing to dislike about this gorgeous rose - utterly healthy with perfectly sized wee flowers....,


If you had several hard freezes then that could well be why you had so much cane die back. It's very common here in the North country to lose a lot of cane to winter freezes. Just take off all the dead wood down to where the inside pith is white and not tan or brown and hopefully they'll recover. I often have to take roses right down to the ground in the spring but they do come back for the most part.

Well I hope the photo shows up though it is embarrassing how Mme. Gregoire is merely a shadow of her former glorious self. So at least now I know that I need to cut out the largest old cane to stimulate new growth, just not sure when to do it.
And thank you, Seil, life did a little swoop there, but I have many blessings. Guidance gratefully welcomed!
I thought I'd be notified of responses, but perhaps they went into my junk folder. Will have to check.


Well I hope the photo shows up though it is embarrassing how Mme. Gregoire is merely a shadow of her former glorious self. So at least now I know that I need to cut out the largest old cane to stimulate new growth, just not sure when to do it.
And thank you, Seil, life did a little swoop there, but I have many blessings. Guidance gratefully welcomed!
I thought I'd be notified of responses, but perhaps they went into my junk folder. Will have to check.

Actually, I've used rebar to stabilize the timbers and they have held up quite well in our Mississippi red clay! You just use a hole bit to drill the holes on each log. Because the logs are not exactly the same length, it's not a bad idea to drill them while stacked, leaving an imprint on the next log. Pound in the rebar (make sure to have the utility companies out to mark the lines in your yard) and then cover the stack with a 2x4 to keep the rain out of the holes and rusting the rebar. I hope this helps!

Has anyone ever used cinder blocks for a raised bed? I am considering making some beds out of these - they can be painted and there are caps that can be used on the tops - there is a cement glue that can hold them together, plus pour concrete in some of the holes and set with 2' pieces of rebar so they should last for years. I don't want to construct any more beds with landscape timbers - though they work well for some years parts of mine rot and must be replaced. Plus, someone told me the chemical used to treat them was not as strong as it used to be [saving money for the company] so they rot quicker. Any thoughts from anyone who has used the cinder blocks?
Judith

Here is documentation that even within each virus type, there can be differences which cause a specific form to be more or less potent than another form.
The following link leads to the full copy of a reviewed, published, scientific 2011 paper that studied this point for three PNRSV strains that have been found to infect roses.
Title: "Biological and molecular characterization of Prunus necrotic ringspot virus isolates from three rose cultivars"
"The PNRSV-R1 isolate seemed to be the most pathogenic. It produced more severe symptoms on Cucurbitaceae plants than PNRSV-R2 or PNRSV-R3."
Please note that each statement made by the authors had to be approved by the reviewers and the editor.
---------------------------------
Variations in structure of PNRSV that infect other plants also have been reported.
http://apsjournals.apsnet.org/doi/abs/10.1094/PHYTO.1999.89.11.991
Here is a link that might be useful: link for rose study above

Multiflora does best for me here. Very vigorous. Yes, the laterals have bloomed on the canes. I believe that photo is one of the long canes. The clusters on the bush have yet to bloom... I can't believe how well the flowers have held up in rain and in a really hot position.
Yes, you just gotta be patient....
Iris, that is catmint. It's all over my yard. Cures a million ills!
Susan

No, I wouldn't. Dis-budding is meant to help the plant grow it's roots quicker. If these are established plants you already have the root ball. It's just the canes that died back. I had to cut all of mine to the ground too and they're coming back nicely. Some have buds and I'm going to let them bloom.


Seil - I am so happy that you are finally able to enjoy some sunshine and warmth and your roses, I know it was a miserable winter for you! M - I wish you could send some rain to me and Kate! I think Kate would agree, we would be glad to send some sunshine and warmer weather your way! My roses haven't been hurt by the drought yet, but they could be if things don't turn around. It would be so nice if we could all just have the right balance of everything, that's not realistic though. Jim, thank you!
The_bustopher - I know, it is frustrating. We've had hit and miss showers for awhile now, until recently they were totally missing my area. I'm not sure how far behind we are, but I would guess it's probably a similar amount to what yours is.
This post was edited by Sara-Ann on Mon, May 26, 14 at 23:21

all of California and a large chunk of Texas are in severe drought or worse.


Add to all of the above that the majority of the Buck roses were introduced by Roses of Yesterday and Today, a nursery well known for using a contract grower who infamously used infected Dr. Huey root stock to produce everything. Years before the original nursery ceased operations (the current version is owned and operated by descendants of the last original owner/operator, and has little to do with the original other than in name), I visited them and toured their growing grounds. There were hundreds of three gallon, paper pulp potted roses and symptoms in every row of plants. I have personal experience with an Earth Song which was given to the gentleman from whom I obtained it by Dr. Buck himself, at Iowa State. It is virused. The man from whom I obtained it never budded it. He received it infected. So, if you hope to find any of the Buck roses (except, perhaps the later ones introduced in the nineties and later, but no guaranty) uninfected, it's pretty much going to have to be one which has been put through the treatment program somewhere to eliminate RMV. Like the majority of the AARS roses, which came out through Armstrong Roses (and were infected by them), the Bucks came to market infected. I haven't grown one yet which didn't show symptoms in my climate. Kim

Thank you all for the replies and info. I originally learned of Buck roses on these forums and they seemed well suited for my area as I am in Iowa. At this point, I will keep my eye on it and see whether or not it has reduced vigor and decide what to do from there. I also asked local growers about experiences growing an infected Buck roses here.


I on the other hand, found direct sunlight to be the driver in out zone 6a garden. Its probably due to the weather. We don't have the long growing season of south California and even most of May was cloudy with drizzle. So the true sunny days are precious.
This post was edited by mikeber on Mon, May 26, 14 at 22:01

I'm inland SF bay area. During the summer months, we alternate between cool weather with the marine layer and frying with 100+ weather. The heat makes thing happen too fast once the HT start their growth spurt. Ideally, the heat get things going and it will cool off so I can enjoy the blooms. We don't get as long a growing season as Scal






Thank you all for the advice!
yep, I am a splinter too - Iuse micropore surgical tape to hold in place until the stem calluses over. I actually saved an entire dwarf peach tree which had snapped off at the graft union, by ramming a broomstick straight down through the middle (drastic but you should have seen the chaos) and wrapping a generous roll of micropore round the join for a whole year. The tree is as good as new (apart from peach leaf curl of course).