21,402 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

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hoovb zone 9 sunset 23

To add to mg's comments, if you can get out there and wipe before too much damage is done, they don't multiply and make things worse. Quicker you can smash them the better. Wear some thin nitrile gloves if squishing bothers you.

    Bookmark   May 25, 2014 at 6:13PM
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seanw

thanks guys!

    Bookmark   May 26, 2014 at 12:56PM
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jasminerose4u, California(9b)

You could always pinch off the blooms and float them in a crystal bowl. If you remove the buds the first year, the plant can focus on root production.

Here is a link that might be useful: Removing buds on first year plants

    Bookmark   May 25, 2014 at 8:57PM
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NOACCEPTANCE772(8a)

Hello everybody, and thank you all for the replies :)
Despite what it looks like, the rose bush is 3-5 years old.
The reason it is so small is because the fools at brookfields nursery kept pruning them EXTREMELY hard, all the time!
I already cut the flowers at the sides leaving one-third of the stem with a few leaves. sorry... >_>
I left the middle stem untouched, tho.
It does not seem to have suffered any shock, tho.

This post was edited by NOACCEPTANCE772 on Mon, May 26, 14 at 11:36

    Bookmark   May 26, 2014 at 11:16AM
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apinksweater

Ah! We have a winner! Fragrant Delight! This is exactly it.

Thank you so much for all the help- I now need to find a supplier, as my local grower does not carry it, to my surpriseâ¦Its one of the best in the midwest, and alas- no luck

    Bookmark   May 26, 2014 at 8:36AM
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vasue(7A Charlottesville)

Wonderful! You're welcome, happy to help. The endearing image of you & your children enjoying this rose in your garden, completing the circle of nostalgic past with unfolding present, brings a smile to my heart.

Roses Unlimited in South Carolina lists Fragrant Delight. They supply gallon plants growing on their own roots rather than grafted & are well-respected, earning a Top 5 rating at Garden Watchdog.

Fragrant Delight is an all-around winner in many ways - beautiful & generous bloom early to frost, delightful fragrance & health & won several awards at the time including the Edland fragrance medal. Thank you for reminding me of its charms! Now I'm seeking this truly delightful rose for this garden, too.

Here is a link that might be useful: Roses Unlimited Roses A-Z

    Bookmark   May 26, 2014 at 10:10AM
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kathy9norcal

I remember doing something similar with a Peace rose years ago! But now he is a total enabler and doesn't say a word if I say I need a particular rose. Makes life easier!

    Bookmark   May 26, 2014 at 1:12AM
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sammy zone 7 Tulsa

I love your choices. When I was using spray, I had a red and white front garden. I had a circle of white roses, and on the outside of the circle in beds or alone, I had my red roses.

Europeana was outstanding, Chrysler Imperial was also a beauty, and reminded me of my father's garden in Indiana. Oklahoma is also beautiful, but did not like me garden.

I had other colors in the back or side of the yard. I do not remember Intrigue or Fragrant Cloud, but do remember the names.

I think you have some real winners in your roses.

Sammy

    Bookmark   May 26, 2014 at 5:53AM
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nippstress - zone 5 Nebraska

Hi Jameya

Boy - things move quickly when I haven't logged in for a day or two! You're right that most of these canes need to be pruned down. All three canes in picture #1 probably need to be taken down to mostly at the ground, though you might be able to stop just before the growth I see at the base. You want to see mostly green cane with mostly cream colored centers after you prune. In picture #2, you can see the growth dying off at the end of the two smaller canes and these need to be taken down to the ground. The center cane might have an inch or so of good cane left - you could try cutting just above a swelling I see toward the base of the cane and see if it will resprout. So far, it isn't showing many good signs of growth. The last picture has a little better cane on the back larger cane, but those brown streaks look like trouble in the making. I'd cut that front shorter cane all the way to the ground, and you'd need to at least trim the back cane down to where the growth starts to the right. In my garden, I'd trim further down to where the growth starts to the left, but some of those streaks might turn out OK. Usually it's a sign of something that gets worse, so if there's still healthy cane below it, I'm always prone to cut more so there's less danger of spreading.

Hope this helps
Cynthia

    Bookmark   May 26, 2014 at 12:47AM
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AquaEyes 7a New Jersey

From what I understood, "catnip" and "catmint" are somewhat interchangeable terms for various species in the Nepeta genus. The species that's more specifically known as "catnip" is Nepeta cataria, and that seems to be the one in your seed packets. I agree that it will spread, and isn't particularly attractive (at least, compared to other species in the genus). I planted a few cultivars of Nepeta here in my new garden:

'Dropmore Hybrid'
'Little Titch'
'Six Hills Giant'
'Walker's Low'

There are a few others out there, but a piece of frugal advice -- if you're a patient gardener, don't buy more than one per cultivar. They are easily propagated -- in my last garden a few years back, I'd simply snip stems and stick them in the ground in Spring, and most rooted and grew. I've tried this a few times again here, and so far, so good.

One other piece of advice regarding any species in the Nepeta genus -- while N. cataria is the one most commonly grown specifically as a "cat tonic", cats will often find other species attractive as well. Keep this in mind when planting them in the garden, because cats will often roll around in the plants and squash them to the ground. I've been battling that issue here (a woman a few doors down feeds strays.....grrrr), and found that what seems to work is to build a "fence" around each plant with some tree branches stuck in the ground. I think that as my roses mature, I'll start sticking Nepeta stems in the ground at their bases -- the Nepeta will cover any naked legs on the roses, and the roses' thorns will (hopefully) deter the cats. We'll see....

:-)

~Christopher

    Bookmark   May 26, 2014 at 1:15AM
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jim1961 Zone 6a Central Pa.

Trust your gardening instincts and do what you feel is best...
Could you post a pic of it? Its hard giving advice without seeing it...

But I will say this I have had own root band roses shipped to me in August and the leaves cooked off of them in the hot shipping box. I planted them in the ground anyways and they hardly grew the rest of the season. They are coming back just fine this year even after a harsh winter and cool Spring...

Best of luck with whatever decision you make...

    Bookmark   May 25, 2014 at 9:50PM
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annestwrt

I recently bought one and I greatly regret it. The flower is lovely but doesn't last a day before it drops all its petals. You can't use it as a cut flower because it drops all it's petals once it opens. It looks messy with all the petals underneath and the wilts if the temps get over 80. I am going to pull it out because I can't stand looking at the mess.

    Bookmark   May 25, 2014 at 2:13PM
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Sow_what? Southern California Inland

I have my Claire Austin pillared on a 4x4, and I'm very pleased with this rose. The blooms start out facing up, but when heavy with petals they turn downward; a beautiful effect for the way I'm using it. The canes are pliable and easy to work with, but the thorns make me pay attention when I'm pillaring.

I keep hearing that the blooms shatter quickly, but I have yet to get an answer from anyone what "quickly" means -- mine seem to last for close to a week, and I've never seen one shatter after only one day. That it eventually shatters is a plus for me, since it saves me the work of deadheading. I have not cut this rose for a vase, so I can't comment on vase life, but the roses on this very young shrub have weak necks. Alnwick, with it's upright habit and heavenly raspberry fragrance might be a better choice for a cut rose.

This is a new rose for me, so I don't know how it will perform over time. I haven't seen Claire with a major flush yet, but it always has a few lovely blooms. The climate here is hot and dry, and our weather has been erratic since I've planted this rose, jumping from 50's to 102F soon after planting it; 70's to high 90's since. I planted it in well amended peaty/composty soil (not a planting hole -- I amended the whole bed), and it gets drip irrigation with a good hosing off about once a week. Has not been fed or fertilized yet. Picture is below.

jannike

    Bookmark   May 25, 2014 at 4:52PM
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vmr423(Zone 8b, SC)

I think it's pretty easy- too easy- to get caught up in the blame game. Your neighbor thinks he is a victim, and that his victimhood justifies his trespassing on your property. From what you've described, he doesn't sound dangerous, but more like someone who doesn't have a clue about social interactions of any kind. Of course, living near someone who's not being able to recognize boundaries is scary, but I didn't hear you describe him as violent.

I kinda like the suggestion of writing him a letter, but I would take a different tack.

1) Agree with him that he's a victim, by sympathising with his plight: "It is really unfortunate that the contractor who installed your pool didn't alert you to the inevitable problems resulting from run-off due to poor siting"... something along those lines. So, yes, he is a victim, but someone else is to blame- not him, and certainly not you!

2) Offer friendly advice regarding solutions. You are a gardener- he may have no idea that he can fix the problem himself by planting appropriate erosion-controlling plants on HIS SIDE of the property line. If erosion control isn't your area of expertise, you could ask for zone-appropriate advice at one of these forums- the native plant forum might be a good source? But the point is that you can offer him free advice about how to fix the problem on his own. Give him a list of things he can plant (and that you wouldn't mind seeing from your side of the fence!) that can keep dirt from washing into his pool.

Keep the tone of the letter civil, if not friendly, and don't undermine your effort with an accusatory or threatening tone. The point is to try to defuse a situation that is bothering both of you without trying to assess where the blame lies.

Once you have a letter drafted, get it vetted by someone from your HOA to get a second opinion about its legal appropriateness, and also so that they know you're making an effort to help your neighbor, even though they agree with you and the police that the situation is not your fault.

I sure hope you are able to find some way to resolve the situation so that he doesn't feel like he needs to keep monitoring- and trespassing on- your property.

    Bookmark   May 25, 2014 at 3:58PM
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jane__ny(9-10)

My guess, he'd poison a dog. I'd try the restraining order, maybe buy a BB gun.

Jane

    Bookmark   May 25, 2014 at 4:18PM
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NOACCEPTANCE772(8a)

You might wanna show this to Paul zimmerman. LOL
He shown that own root roses establish quicker than budded/grafted roses, but it always occurred to me, "What if the root stock and scion are not compatible?" which might of been why his Grafted/budded rose did so poorly?
But this is awesome :P I my self am preparing root stocks for some budding and grafting of my own :)

    Bookmark   May 25, 2014 at 1:09PM
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roseseek

Thank you! Paul and I saw when walking the Ashdown fields in Wasco, the year Arena budded his plants there, some varieties simply didn't require budding. In particular, Mme. Alfred Carriere generated inch and thicker canes on those budded plants the first summer after budding. Others pushed begrudging inches of thin growth. It all depends upon the genetics of the rose, how suitable it is for where it's being grown and under what conditions. For every variety you give me that doesn't require it, I can probably give you one which does.

Here, and in many other less cold severe, longer season areas, many own root plants are going to do wonderfully. Put the same roses in shorter, harsher season areas and they fail. We've all read the posts from forum responders here about how they won't bother with own root plants because they don't flourish in their climates and conditions. Just as we've read those which won't touch budded plants for their stated reasons. But, you have to take your cues from the rose. Most WILL root, but not all will grow well own root. If you want to be sure to get what you're trying to propagate, you're best off trying several methods of propagation. Not all are going to succeed in every situation with every rose, everywhere. I received material from two of this series from the same person at that time. I struck both and budded both. The second variety failed as cuttings, but buds on another piece of Pink Clouds remained green and have only begun pushing growth this year. It's now starting to flower. It's also mildewing up a storm, which might well mean it isn't something I really want to use for breeding, but we'll see. As with the other, I inserted multiple buds on the same, longer whip of Pink Clouds. My goal wasn't to create a garden ready plant of either, but to establish them in my garden so I could begin playing with them. Once you have one plant, you're set! Then, you can generate virtually as many as you want. Also, as with the other Ruffle variety, I intend to cut up the budded pieces of this one to root individually this winter. I know I'll have one budded low, and very possibly other budded plants if I can successfully pull off rooting them. I don't put multiple varieties on the same stock. If one is virused, then all the others are likely then to be also. But, I will put multiples of the same variety on the same stock.


Yes, incompatibility between scion and stock might result in issues with the rose settling in. So could how the budded plant was held prior to planting. If it's held too dry and experiences desiccation prior to planting, there will be issues. We've all experienced where the plant sat there, dying back, drying out instead of breaking into growth. If the rose is one with strongly Foetida genetics, it's a kiss of death. Think Peace, Grey Pearl, Angel Face, Sterling Silver and all other lavenders, yellows and Pernetiana types. Foetida genes hate cold, dry storage. It's been strongly suggested for years this could well be why bare roots of those types are often seen as "devitalized" and often never regain their original vigor.

There are simply too many variables involved to accurately state own roots will establish faster and better than budded, OR vice versa. You can demonstrate that very often, MANY roses will establish and provide you with more propagation and garden use material faster if budded, compared to own root. (I don't blame you for grafting your own!) Kim

    Bookmark   May 25, 2014 at 4:07PM
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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

Possible causes are verticillium wilt (a soil-borne disease that clogs the plumbing) or something wrong with the cane stub that underlies the dying cane (canker or insect damage). In eastern zone 7 and colder there was a lot of winter damage this year, but unlikely in zone 8.

V-wilt sounds like a real possibility. I have had it in two roses, which developed resistance (immune reaction) and survived. Canes die back separately to the crown or graft. You can look up images.

    Bookmark   May 23, 2014 at 9:37AM
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madabouteu(8A - central Alabama)

I have also thought of stem canker but I don't see it on the affected stems.

    Bookmark   May 25, 2014 at 2:27PM
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caldonbeck(UK (8))

You're probably right seil - being mean but this stuff takes soporific to a whole new level. I struggle to find any relevance to a gardener. This is after all a garden forum. These are dull, university papers posted continuously. Can you hand on heart say you've ploughed through any of this stuff and come out the other end having gained anything?

    Bookmark   May 24, 2014 at 11:41PM
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anntn6b(z6b TN)

There are rose diseases out there that are important to those of us in North America. What is in the scientific papers (Yes, I do read them) is important to many of us for the continued health and survival of our gardens.

Do a search about Downey Mildew. Then do a search about Chili Thrips. Then look to Rose Rosette.

Then thank your lucky stars that so far, these pestilences aren't being propagated in your part of the rose world by people who can't be bothered to learn about both the good and bad sides of rose growing.

    Bookmark   May 25, 2014 at 12:56PM
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michaelg(7a NC Mts)

I would guess that the remaining cane was injured by cold and will not support much if any bloom. I would take it out to encourage healthy new growth. Recovery from this treatment depends on how much root mass the rose has. Just this morning I pruned a rose nearly to the ground that I thought had come through winter OK, but was damaged. This was an established plant, so I'm sure it will be fine. I'm not sure about yours.

    Bookmark   May 25, 2014 at 10:20AM
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mad_gallica(zone 5 - eastern New York)

IME, a lot of Austins aren't really suitable for being grown own-root. They just sit there, don't get much bigger, then die back. Since most people growing them in the northeast, get them budded from Canada, there doesn't seem to be a lot of info in how they do around here without a rootstock to push them. Organic fertilizer will help, as will HEAT.

My recollection is that Mary Rose has a heavily damask scent. It also was a blackspot magnet.

    Bookmark   May 25, 2014 at 11:47AM
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garden_views(7a Mid-Atlantic)

Thank you, Charleney, for your comments. Though there is more than one trunk (is "trunk" the proper term?), this trunk in the tallest and most rose-filled of my Golden Showers climbing rose. The slice out of the trunk is within a foot of ground level, so I hate to think it might need to be cut back. I must rely on you kind folks with more knowledge than I on caring for roses and will remain patience to see what happens.

    Bookmark   May 25, 2014 at 8:52AM
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garden_views(7a Mid-Atlantic)

Duplicate post; don't know how that happened

This post was edited by Garden_Views on Sun, May 25, 14 at 11:34

    Bookmark   May 25, 2014 at 8:53AM
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charleney(8a PNW)

U know if the main stalk is split and still in the same pot that you purchased it in...I would take it back and get a good replacement or money back. At least let them know that you are unhappy!

    Bookmark   May 25, 2014 at 12:59AM
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vettin(z6b Northern VA)

I started like you. Please look around this forum... Not sure where you purchased it from but some retailers are notorious for mislabeling and not great quality. I was discouraged the first year after all three expensive roses died, and then found these forums...including which roses do well in my area, which ones need spraying for disease, etc...

    Bookmark   May 25, 2014 at 6:22AM
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jim1961 Zone 6a Central Pa.

Hi Melissa,

My son is in Berlin right now. He has been doing a apprenticeship for 10 months and will return back to the states in late July...

Best wishes for your roses!

    Bookmark   May 23, 2014 at 2:37PM
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Mel.Bag26

Thanks for the tips guys! I won't give up!

    Bookmark   May 25, 2014 at 6:19AM
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