22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Hey Kippy. My Lady of Megginch performed the same way. Very stout basal shoots turn into arching monsters of 15 plus feet in length with one to three flowers on the end. And the thorns on these canes are outrageous. The smaller bushier part of the plant just sits there with little bloom. Makes a lopsided nightmare in the rose bed. Beyond time for shovel pruning.
Those were the types of growth Clair Martin used to "self peg" and train along stakes in the Austin bed at The Huntington. If you have the room and desire, as well as water and energy, you can frequently get flowering lateral growth from them when trained as climbers. If you don't want to or can't accommodate that style of growth, that's totally valid, but if you can and want the rose, it may be a way to keep it and make it perform for you. Kim
I have two coral drifts and 2 apricot drifts that have been in my garden for several years now. I wouldn't call them spreaders by my definition. I think of spreaders as something that roots/suckers/colonizes...my Drifts don't do that. They are wider than they are tall...if that is what is being described as spreading. They are extremely resistant to blackspot and extremely prolific bloomers. Only negatives to me are that they have no fragrance, and they aren't good about self cleaning (spent blooms hang around on the bush too long unless deadheaded).
I would add mulch, water when the soil is almost dry (use 50% more water per watering than usual in sandy soils) and do a soil test to check for salt toxicity (too much salt) and mineral defficiencies. Then add organic compost at the recommended levels per your soil test result.
This post was edited by luis_pr on Tue, Sep 2, 14 at 8:43
Never apply insecticide unless a particular pest that has serious consequences has been identified. You are stressing the plants unnecessarily with chemicals that can burn leaves. The symptom of Sevin poisoning would be bronzing and dead brown spots on the leaves. However, I doubt that is the problem.
Let me repeat my point that, if you plant Western-grown roses in Florida sand, they will decline after 2-3 years from root-knot nematodes. If you dig such a plant for inspection, the roots will be sparse and lumpy, Choose Florida-grown roses on nematode-resistant Fortuniana rootstock.
If that is not the problem, it is probably insufficient water or nutrition. In sandy soil during summer, pants need water every three days and over an inch (about 6 gallons) per week.
I strongly disagree with the advice not to fertilize in summer. When I gardened in Central Florida, we fed roses every 4-6 weeks year around. Malcolm Manners is a professor of horticulture in Lakeland and a world expert on roses. He feeds twice as much in summer as in winter because the rainy season leaches nutrients from the sandy soil. He uses Osmocote-for-Florida every 3 months plus organic ferts and lime.
Let me ask again if the yellowish leaves have green veins.
You should get a soil test through the county extension agent.
I think that the consensus is NOT to spray.
I've had midge before and I was advised to use something like your option #2 in the planting area for my roses.
The life cycle of the midge depends upon the pupa being able to survive and develop after dropping from the affected plants on to the ground below.
If you nuke (your concept) the ground your roses grow in, then you break the cycle (i.e. no more midge).
It worked well for me. I only had midge the third year of 10 years of growing roses.
I guess the recommendation of aegis may be as good as you will get here. Most of the gardeners on this forum are opposed to "nuking" plants with insecticides, though sometimes some feel they have to. But since most of us don't use insecticides, we often don't know much about them in terms of what "cures" what condition. We do know that they kill bees and earth worms, etc.--and we try to avoid that.
You do see Bayer mentioned as a spray on this forum by a number of gardeners, but they are talking about the fungicide (for blackspot), not the insecticide put out by Bayer.
Sorry I can't be more help. Good luck.
Kate
Well, first, there were two yellow miniatures sold as Golden
Sunblaze. If the tag has the code name on it (something like MEIcupag), it will let you know which of the two it might be. The first one sold under that name was Ralph Moore's Rise'n Shine. Meilland didn't have any minis of their own breeding when the miniature boom started, so they licensed other peoples' minis to be sold under their trade names. Once they had bred their own, they substituted them for the trade names. So, yours could be either rose.
In Zone 5b, both will be quite a bit smaller than they will in warmer, longer seasons, but I would think either could grow to about an 18" X 18" head on top of the 24" trunk. Perhaps if they aren't pruned hard each year and don't suffer significant winter damage or die back, they may grow larger. Congratulations on your bargain! Kim
Thanks for the info Kim!
The roses I got are from Monrovia (according to pot and label on the trees) and the name of them is Rosa x 'Meicupaq'.
Forgot to mention I bought large concrete planters 18" T x 21" D x 21" W and I will be storing them in my non insulated garage for the winters. I don't want to plant them in the ground and risk losing them after another harsh winter.
This post was edited by Cal_00 on Tue, Sep 2, 14 at 0:09
Seil, my 1st Randy Scott (3 yrs. old) didn't survive the harsh winter. It had thrived and was a big producer. My 2nd one was a weaker plant than the 1st and survived the winter. Both would always have BS issues and I do spray. I got Dona Martin last year and she did great for a 1st yr. bush, made it through winter. The bush is a good producer with little BS. Dona Martin and Randy Scott are great roses. Has anyone else had similar results?
You need to wait until the roses are completely dormant and there isn't a chance that it will warm back up again. I don't do mine until December most years now. Last year did catch us off guard but we just went out and did it in the cold and snow anyway. Better that than putting it on too soon. If it's too warm it will cause mold and canker to grow on them.
Thanks, Henry