22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I am a lazy gardener. Since I plant the bud unions deeply, I leave my roses uncovered during winter and, therefore, usually loose every cane to winter's natural pruning.
Seil, I know you are right about fungii being present in the air, etc., but I had rust on several roses for a couple of years and lost it pruning to the ground years ago. It has never returned. What can I say? I'm lucky I guess :-)
Steve
Nick, in the spring you only need to take off what ever cane is winter damaged and do not need to prune them down to the ground if the cane is still healthy and green. I always leave as much of the old viable cane as I can when I spring prune. Some years that's a lot and other years, like last year, it's next to nothing. Either way I let the roses start out with as much cane as possible and they seem to do very well.
Steve, I don't have much experience with rust so I can't say one way or the other about your results If it works for you then go for it. Thankfully rust is very rare here and I've never had it on my roses and have only seen it once on someone else's.
Thanks everyone for your helpful input! Michaelg, that's exactly what's happening. Susan, it's more about cluelessness than restraint!
It sounds like the best thing for me to do is just be patient and let it settle in this year. I'll give it one more light feeding (I'll look for a granular organic rose or root formula) and then allow it to wind down for the year. Looking forward to lots of flowers next year (or the year after)!
Sounds good.
About the yellow leaves at the base--if they are solid yellow, it's probably just old leaves being ditched by the plant because they are heavily shaded. If there are dark spots, it's probably cercospora spot, which you can safely ignore. One thing to be alert for, though, is spider mites. 'The Fairy' is particularly susceptible. Infested leaves have a gray-bronze cast with pale stippling on the top surface, and the lower surface looks dirty.
Seil is correct--you cannot make repeat-blooming roses stop growing. They are naturally evergreen and ever-blooming, and will not stop until they are bludgeoned by a hard freeze. However, when night temperatures fall into the 40s, they will start toughening up for winter, insofar as they are capable.
Most once-blooming roses are deciduous and will drop leaves in response to the days growing short.
In neither case can the gardener control these processes. The old theories about this are not true.
Hope your DH heals well - healing takes time, impatience is the nemesis of getting well, so hope he gives himself plenty of time.
I have both roses - I really think I like Belinda's Dream a little better - totally disease proof foliage which it never loses even in heat of summer, and really pumps out the blooms all the time. I was just trimming mine back yesterday, buds all over it. If this rose had fragrance, it would be THE perfect rose. I have and really like Quietness - and its a good rose, but if I had to pick, it would be Belinda hand's down. I bought a few more to put around the yard just because its such a beautiful rose AND a good looking shrub.
My granddaughter Addison, who is 3, seems to have inherited both the gardening gene and the horse loving gene! How lucky can I get? Already got her a bomb proof broke pony, and she loves all my Miniature horses, and loves being outside "helping" me garden!
I have a pink rose bed too........edged in dwarf boxwoods. Apricot is my favorite color rose, but I adore this pink bed!
Judith
Thanks, Alameda. That helps. Your pink rose bed sounds delightful! Apricot roses are also my favorite but there are so many wonderful pink roses. I wish I could grow more of them.
Addison sounds delightful. Granddaughters are a gift, aren't they? And you're right about DH needing patience. It isn't his strong suit but he's handling it better than I thought.
Ahh the LIST.....mine is ever changing lol. I start a new one only ever other day and probably will until I actually order or make a trip to Chamblees. But right now I know for sure I want Charlotte, Tamora, Alnwick, Mrs. B R Cant and archduke Charles, and Marriotta, the rest of the list is still under construction :).
Old garden roses with damask or portland ancestry can show similar symptoms when they have a bad case of blackspot fungus. Do you know the name of your rose? If your plant is growing actively, do you find the symptom or the older or the newer leaves?
Reine de Violettes was thornless for me. Crepuscule x3 were thornless. One of four grew thorns but at an elderly age, not an abundance. Heritage was completely thornless for me. I had 3, one of my first roses and neither ever had a thorn. Grandmother's Hat (for me) had prickles, no thorns. Zephy D had a few prickles, only on very old canes as she aged (you know like an older man who needs the ear hairs pulled). Lady Banks thornless for me. I have had Fortuniana plants that were completely thornless and some that were virtual spines. Renae is smooth. That's all I know and it's very little.
I can't be sure, but it might be a beneficial predator such as a syrphid larva. Do observe it and see what it's up to. Worms that eat leaves can be seen eating leaves, while predators usually prowl around.
If you conclude that it is eating leaves, just pick it off and squish. Or are there hundreds of them? True caterpillars can be controlled with a biological insecticide, BT (bacillus thuringensis).
The worms that most commonly graze on rose leaves are rose slugs, Look for them on the underside of the leaf.
This post was edited by michaelg on Tue, Aug 12, 14 at 12:10
I haven't seen a post from Diane (nanadoll) in quite some time. I hope she's okay, and wonder if anyone has a way to contact her. She was a big help to me here on garden web as well, and introduced me to several beautiful roses, including Ascot and David Austin's Evelyn.
jannike
Same here. I am a newbie who has benefited from Diana's postings. Hope that all is well with her.
I got Ascot after seeing Diane's pictures.
Andrea -- my Ascot (second season) is not a short rose at all. I got it from Palatine, and the first season, it shoot up to 5 feet tall. I don't have YL, but I don't think Ascot is the best choice for a pot. Not sure where you are, but here in New Jersey, at least in my garden, it is not resistant to blackspot. It is, however, very vigorous grower and blackspot does not seem to bother it too much.
On the other hand, Floral Fairy Tale (own root, 3rd year) might be a good choice for pot. It is a sprawling grower for me and is wider than it is tall. The bush is fuller than Ascot.
Not that they are selling Fortuniana, but offer roses budded on it. If you'd like VI Fortuniana, I grow Malcolm's VI Fortuniana, which, he tells me, is the one Davis is growing as they obtained it from him. He also stated they retested it for all they test for and found it free from everything they traditionally test for. It is the Fortuniana your Eugene de Beauharnais is budded to, though I have absolutely no clue as to the cleanliness of the Eugene. Would you like pieces of Malcolm's Fortuniana? If the green house is operational, I can get it to you. Kim
OH NO!
The Fortuniana we have runs almost all the way up the hill. Another Fortuniana, we do not need.
I was just curious.
But I've always sort of wondered if Fortuniana might not be a superior rootstock for some parts of California, since it seems to grow so well here.