22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

Ah, Bayourose- you just made my day!! I have done a lot of mid-summer planting of roses in my zone, Heather, and sadly I only get winter survival on substantial sized pots anything after about June. I can plant Roses Unlimited gallons from their July sale without particular problems, but we don't get reliable snow cover and even with protection bands are simply not feasible for me this late in the year.

After last frost, however....now THAT I can order with a clear conscience!!

Off to blow my weekly budget...
Cynthia

Glad to help out a fellow rose lover! He he! Just think of the sale as getting two for the price of one. I can always find a way to justify buying roses. Smiles.

I can't really say about the business-end of David Austin's business nor about any other company/business, but I can say that to me, Austin roses are NOT " those bloated and frilly monsters." They are still my favorite category of roses--though I like a lot of other kinds of roses also.

Kate

Susan I think death takes a few years. The ones in downtown Franklin that I was watching were going on 3 years before they finally dug them out because they got so ugly. The multiflora seem to hang on for a least that long as well.

I've linked a story that was circulating locally last year. It might help you with your neighbor.

Here is a link that might be useful: Mid Tn RRD story

We did not get all that heavy rain, thank goodness! We did get an inch or two I believe. I think my roses were not getting enough water, as soon as I spotted the brown leaves I watered them really well. Now I know they'll be fine, they're looking better already. Thanks

Once you have corrected the underwatering and overspraying, then just remove the ugliest of the leaves--and they will look like brand new roses again. : )

Kate

"Although California has many different species of root-feeding nematodes, the most damaging ones to gardens are the root knot nematodes, Meloidogyne species. Root knot nematodes attack a wide range of plants, including many common vegetables, fruit trees, and ornamentals. They are difficult to control, and they can spread easily from garden to garden in soil on tools and boots or on infested plants. "

H. Kuska comment: I wonder how many people that think (or are being told in this forum) that they have "heat" problems with their roses actually have root knot nematode problems?

"Aboveground symptoms of a root knot nematode infestation include wilting during the hottest part of the day even with adequate soil moisture, loss of vigor, yellowing leaves, and other symptoms similar to a lack of water or nutrients. Infested vegetable plants grow more slowly than neighboring, healthy plants, beginning in early to midseason. Plants produce fewer and smaller leaves and fruits, and ones heavily infested early in the season can die. Damage is most serious in warm, irrigated, sandy soils."

See:

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn7489.html

Here is a link that might be useful: link for above

It was inevitable..... since rose growing in Africa is essentially just more of the same intensive agricultural ecocide which puts short term profits over long-term soil husbandry.

We had hailstorm also. My roses didn't get damaged too bad but large leaves plants like hostas, grasses were torn, and had holes from the hail. Very weird summer, sometimes heavy rain, followed by long dry spells, fall type weather starting to settle in! Short summer!

Yeah, hail can be nasty. Like I said, all of the leaves are shredded. What a mess.
Don't say the "F" word!!! Not fall!!!!! Oh poor you!! Your summer sounds very challenging this year.
Carol

Thanks for the information. I will consider Beverly. I have Folklore which is hardy but lacks fragrance.

I have Beverly (grown in a pot) as a bare root this year. The flowers smell heavenly!!! I don't have anything now, because the hail decimated my roses. But it's really beautiful with a wonderful fragrance.
Carol

I should add that my claims about space requirements would assume no winter damage.

Cool, Mordenman - your percentage of cane survival represents the range of hardiness of these climbers well enough to account for the variable climates where it grows, and I think it'll be helpful to newbies and others who are considering this rose. For me, if I can get at least that 40-60% of cane survival over the winter, the rose will both reliably bloom and expand nicely over a support in the summer. When I've had to prune even monster hardy climbers like Mme. Alfred Carriere or Madame Isaac Periere to the ground like last winter, I've gotten the growth back to normal levels by now but no blooms.

Thanks for the complement on the photo! I like having a mix of climbers on any given fence spot when possible, because of the variable extent to which any given climber is going to have substantial surviving cane enough to bloom, or decide to sulk for a summer. One way or another, I want SOMETHING to bloom each year.

One other comment to add to Michael's timely note about space requirements and climate is that climbers tend to need less "floor space" but more "elbow room" than other kinds of roses. In other words, to respond to Heather's questions about fitting them both in a given space, it depends on how much room they have to spread out on a fence. In the top photo, I have probably 10 or more climbers stretched out along 12' or so of the fence that you can see, so the bases of the climbers are pretty close to each other (some are on the other side of the fence, as the neighbors let me play on their side too). That only works because the branches of all the climbers can stretch horizontally along a large area of tall fence and overlap each other freely. You want climbers to grow horizontally as much as possible so that the blooming laterals can sprout up from the canes.

If you had a 6' section of fence, you could probably put climbers at both ends of the fence and stretch them toward each other and start zigzagging the canes up as they grow. If you only had 3' of fence horizontally, even if you had plenty of ground room to work with, that would likely only support one climber at best, and it would have to have very flexible canes to wind back and forth along most of that fence to get a full bloom. In that kind of space, Laguna would work better.

Hopefully that helps as you plan your climbers! As you can tell, I'm always in favor of cramming in more roses and other plants as much as possible, so take my advice with that caution in mind (smile).

Cynthia

Oh, look -- I've received MANY roses that were not what I ordered.

The worst offender in our experience was the original Heirloom Roses Co. (St. Paul, OR). I'd say 90% of the roses we ordered from them either were mis-labelled, OR they didn't have what we ordered, so sent us what they had.

I've come to believe that the hallmark of a good nursery is NOT whether they sometimes make a mistake, but rather -- how they deal with the error, and make it right.

Jeri

I agree, Jeri. Some of the complaints about Rogue Valley Roses were about how the mistakes were handled. But in my case, they were more than fair. Hopefully that practice will continue. I wanted to show my gratitude for their generosity by sharing my experience here.

This picture is of my Climbing Yellow Sweetheart rose (no thorns!) from Rogue Valley Roses

Kim. Looking at the pic you sent my buds rarely if ever look like the bud in the bottom right hand side. Hoping when I move her she gets all pretty like your pic. Thanks again!! Judy

Hi Judy, you're welcome! I'll bet if you provide more heat and sun, your blooms should look more like those on HMF. Or, as much like them as the available heat and sun in your garden can provide. Good luck! Kim

Grand Amore is a bright red color and has good form. It does get quite tall. Mine sometimes gets 12-15 ft tall. It might as well be a climber. It does want to grow straight up. It is quite sturdy as far as surviving around here. Flower size is usually smaller than some of the others, but it varies with temperature. It will get larger in cool weather, but it is rarely as big as a Veteran's Honor. I think it is a good variety, but watch out for the plant size.

The blooms are smaller than some of the other red HT varieties, but the trade off is on vigour, bloom profusion, repeat and disease resistance. GA does all of those things exceptionally well, whereas few of the other reds do.

Try Plum Perfect from Chamblees. I just bought 2 more - similar blooms and a great little rose!
Judith

Thanks Seil and alameda.

Seil, that's the only place I saw it also. And alameda, I wanted this rose to replace Young Lycidas, a VERY fragrant rose that I planted in a very large pot on my deck. But he seems to want to be too big for a pot.

Thanks again,

andreark

I am 2 hours from Tyler. Lots of pretty trees, decent soil but I amend with horse compost. This time of year, I live with a water hose in my hand. Roses are OK.....not too many blooms other than my potted ones that are in early morning sun. As long as you keep them mulched and watered, it wont be long until fall then the show starts all over again.
Judith

Sara Ann, I hope you join the Tulsa Rose Society if you do not already belong. Feel free to email me, and I can give you specifics about joining. I would love to meet you.

Exhibitors plan their exhibits. They often have roses that they groom specifically for show. When they plan for an exhibit, they may prune off much of a rose, so that the rose can put all its energy on a few, then on one bloom. The "art of exhibiting" is its own special talent or art. It is very interesting, and fun to be involved in for someone like me who mainly watches in amazement.

I have many photos in HMF, and so do many who post here. I just catch a pretty photo by chance.

I used to spray, and could grow most roses. Now I do not spray, and mainly grow certain categories that do not require spray. I will never grow so many roses that others grow, but those who exhibit may not enjoy the type of garden that I love.

I live in a suburb on the east side of Tulsa - almost in the city. They main thing I need to do to be successful is to keep a hose inside in the winter, and hook it up on pretty winter days to water. Last year was the first true drought that I can remember since the early 1980's. I was too busy to ever even purchase a new hose and hook it up. I left all my hoses unattached, but on the ground. I did not water.

There are very successful rose growers who belong to the Tulsa Rose Society. They can answer so many questions about rose growing. The meetings are on a Sunday at about 1:00 or 2:00 at Woodward Park. My email is attached on this forum, I think. Feel free to contact me.

Sammy

And please give us what information IS on the labels. Sometimes there is a code or patent number or even just the growers information that can help.

Also, you can go to this site:

http://www.helpmefind.com/rose/plants.php

and see what the roses of the names you thought you were buying are SUPPOSED to look like.

Jeri

Strike it Rich is a big, tall, vigorous grower here. Mine is around 4 years old. It produces lots of new canes each year. Most of those start out strong now, but it will still have a couple of canes in the spring that are too weak to hold up all its blooms after a strong storm without staking. Those do improve through the growing season, though. As yours matures, I believe it will be a strong, upright blooming machine. Here is mine from last fall towering over other roses nearby:

Wow, Pat, Just gorgeous. Gives me something to look forward to. Today I noticed a few blackspot-looking leaves on the lower part of the plant. My research indicated that this rose is supposed to be highly resistant to that. What should I do to help my SIR?