22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

I wintered my 36 Knock out rose trees and 12+JP rose trees (baby blanket, raspberry blanket) in the garage before. For 7-8 years I had no problems with knock out rose trees (without any covers), the rose trees from JP, were all slowly gone with the wind, they couldn't take the winter cold here. I watered them once a month during the winter. Then last winter I stored all my motorcycles/scooters in the garage, put rose trees in the shed, they were all dead this spring. Last winter was too cold. So I started over with 23 Knock out rose trees in pots this Spring. I will winter them in the garage for sure. If you love Knock out rose trees, wait for Breck's big sale next year, for $50, you can get two rose trees for sure. :-)

Or buy Northern Encore aka Polar Joy as a standard and not worry. It is cold hardy to below -27 C, blooms all summer (pretty, pink singles), and is scented to boot (where did that expression come from? Stinky ones?). It grows own root, which means there is no bud union to protect. I've been growing it for 12 years, and it even survived last winter protection or any damage!

Steve

Here is a link that might be useful: Help Me Find

GunnersWife -- Head over to Home Depot. Out in the nursery area, you'll find big bags of mulch. They sell "Western Bark" pretty cheaply.

Put it on the ground around your roses, 3-4-inch-deep mulch is going to help their roots stay cool and healthy. Anything in pots should also be mulched -- tho we like to use a more finely-chopped mulch than that in the ground.

Roses transplanted in full leaf will usually wilt, and especially in the heat of summer. If transplants wilt, give them shade for a week or two.

They look fine already. It takes about 6 weeks to produce a new set of blooms, so be patient and don't over-fertilize.

Yes subk3 I know what you mean! I have not been able to bring myself to disbud my new roses. I understand why you should do it but I just can't lol.

All nice roses you have boncrow66!
I disbudded young roses one entire season before and it was tough and I probably will never do that again...lol

Hey Susan,
ItâÂÂs been a terrible year for fungal issues here. Canker this spring was worse than I can ever remember, and IâÂÂm still seeing some delayed cane death from it. Blackspot seems much worse than the last few years, too. I do spray about once a month when fungal issues are at their peak, and thatâÂÂs normally enough to keep mine fairly healthyâ¦but not this year. IâÂÂm not willing to spray more frequently, so things are just looking bad right now. With the weather up and down so much, we havenâÂÂt had consistently high enough night temps to kill off the blackspot yet. As far as pruning, I usually just deadhead hard this time of yearâ¦taking 6 to 8 inches off when I remove old blooms (10 to 12 inches on monster bushes). I did cut a couple of roses way back about a month ago and removed a lot of diseased canes. Those roses were really struggling from all the fungal issues running rampant here, but have come back strong from their pruning and thinning. They were mature bushes, though, so not sure how young ones would react to severe pruning this time of year. Hoping yours will bounce back beautifully! Try not to judge them too harshly based on this yearâÂÂs performance since disease pressure seems abnormally high. HTs grown no spray here are going to have some blackspot, but some will do much better than others. With time, you will know which ones can perform at an acceptable level for you.

Thanks again you all for the wise and gentle advice. I ended up pruning only dead wood and crossing canes. Gemini has not produced a bloom yet. Neither has Velvet Fragrance. Dolly Parton has put out two. Beverly has put out two.
In contrast, Pat Austin is a blooming MACHINE! I love this rose. And Charlotte, Grace and Tamora are not too far behind herâ¦.but far and above, Pat Austin is just a beautiful bush with beautiful flowers.
Susan

Thanks for the detailed response.
I've removed the rocks from the pot and relocated it. Now it should be in the shade most of the day.
Ill water it as you've suggested.
Also, considering the fact that it is August already and that the diagnosis was that the rose suffers from the heat, I hope that the coming autom-weather will help.
Again, many thanks.

You're welcome. Don't get me wrong, it does need sunlight to produce chlorophyll, it just will benefit from the bright morning sun without being fried by the hot afternoon sun and the heat coming off any hot walls cooking it. I'm glad you got the rocks out of there. That should help. If the soil is old, you might also consider carefully lifting it from the pot, putting in some new soil beneath the root ball, filling in around the sides and over the top to freshen things up a bit. Potting soil can quickly break down in high heat, damaging drainage and water holding capacities as it does. I'll leave that call to you as you know how old the soil is and how well it drains. Good luck! I think all of us suffering through severe summers are looking forward to autumn! Kim

Thankyou so much, I will follow your advice

Coming in late -- but you've gotten good advice.

You're welcome, Carol. Check the foliage, wood, prickles and scent of newly opened blooms. Weather, fertilizer, moisture levels and climate can affect bloom shape, but the coloring of the blooms appear very similar to me between the two. Are there other darker mauve HTs you've bought, or is Rothschild the darker one that's followed you home? Rothschild is quite fragrant, or was here. It always appeared to me that none of the major US producers picked it up because they had Silk Hat in the pipeline. In my garden and to my taste, Rothschild was the superior plant and bloom, but it boils down to economics. Had they pushed Rothschild, they would have owed Meilland the royalties. Waiting for Silk Hat, they got to keep all the royalties for themselves. Kim

Here is a link that might be useful: Silk Hat

Yes, Silk Hat and Baronne seem quite similar! Both have the silver reverse.

The 2nd rose has quilled petals. I think it could be anything. Don't think it's something I ordered.

I know it might sound weird/uneconomical etc. but if I don't know the name of it - I would just as soon as give it away as keep it. :(

Well, I'll keep you posted as new blooms come. Since it's a new rose (bare root) it might take a while. Whereas Baron EdR is twice the height and has many blooms. I agree with you. I love it!!
Carol

I understand and that's a call that's yours to make. I simply didn't want you to undertake this and come to wish you hadn't for fear of transmitting anything undesired. Fore warned is fore armed. What you could also do is use any seedlings you don't think you want to retain, but which have proven themselves vigorous and able to withstand your climate. Mr. Moore did that extensively. There were things popping up all over that nursery as suckers, often quite interesting and beautiful things he'd forgotten were under something (sometimes MANY "somethings") he budded to see what the plant shape would be or to push to increase propagation material. Kim

More "Duh!" today. Several of the stocks I sealed with the Parafilm continued flowing sufficient sap to leak quite badly, no matter how tightly I wrapped the ends. I stopped by my favorite nursery today and asked about the old pruning sealer stick I sold years ago and was told by the chemical buyer she didn't think it was still manufactured. She asked what I needed it for and after my explanation, she asked why I didn't simply use Elmer's Glue. Duh! I KNOW that, but didn't think of it. The sap flows much stronger during daylight hours with heat. I waited until dusk, peeled the leaking Parafilm off and squeezed some Elmer's Glue on to a paper towel and began painting the leaking ends with a Q-tip. I worried the flow might dilute the glue and continue leaking, but less than half an hour later, the glue had set. I painted it over the edge and on to the top sides of the cut ends in hopes of creating a sealed cap to contain the leaks. It's now many hours later and the glue is dry on all the painted stocks. Hopefully, tomorrow when the sun rises and heat begins to build, the dried glue caps will retain the sap flow and begin pushing the buds even faster. Kim

I think the yellow tomato was a Yellow Brandywine?

They sure make good tomato sandwiches

I'd say you are safe growing them outdoors, Virginia. The greatest things about germinating them outdoors are you plant them all at once and don't have to continuously check for newly germinated ones and get them planted ASAP; you just keep them watered and let them do their own things. You don't have to worry about hardening anything off because as they germinate, they ARE hardening off. And, if you use a large and deep enough container in which to germinate them, you can pretty much leave them alone to grow in that container until fall/winter when it's safer and more comfortable to separate them. The varying temperatures are going to help them germinate better and they should continue germinating well into the eighty degrees range, despite the reported "germination stops around seventy degrees". Not here. I find them continuing to come up well into the eighties. You're going to have FUN!

Thank you, Boncrow. Much appreciated! Thank you, Kippy. I appreciate knowing the name of that tomato. It was wonderful! Kim