22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I agree with Jackie, you can't go by "tradition". You have to let your roses tell you when it's time. I watch my roses and wait to see them start to fatten up the red leaf buds along the canes. Once I see that I know they are waking up and starting to grow. That's when I prune. I have no idea when that might happen for you so go out and check your roses. If that's already started you can go ahead and prune them. Normally I do two prunings though. The first one is early when the have started to grow but I find I usually have to go back around after they've leafed out because there may have been some further die back or there may have been a late freeze that took some cane. I don't know if that happens in your climate or not.
Hopefully it was some of the beneficial fungi. I had lots of the soil from the pot with the white stuff in it as well so I added a couple of shovel fulls in the hole.
I actually have recently bought some Great White fungi to start using in my new rose pots.
Thanks again!
Thanks for this, cottonwood. Looks interesting. I just might have to read the other books by Andrea Di Robilant as well. Such a personal look at history. Here's a short video regarding the book and author.
Here is a link that might be useful: BBC Video Chasing the Rose
Kentucky rose----For my garden, 4 Shelia's Perfume, 2 Royal Amethyst, 2 Distant Drums. For a lady at work, 1 Remember Me, 1 Elina. For my garden at work, 1 Chicago Peace, 1 Electron, 1 Big Purple, 1 Mr Lincoln. Plus I ordered 50 name plates. Next year I'll probably order 4 Neil Diamond's, depending on what other folks have to say about it this coming year.
Yes, containerized roses do need to be either potted up to larger pots or root pruned eventually. If you're at the largest sized pots you can handle then root pruning is the way to go.
Doing it during dormancy is probably the best time. Wait until just before they would normally start to come out of dormancy. Cut the tops down some both to make them easier to handle and also because you're reducing the amount of roots you have available to feed the top when they come out of dormancy. Take them out of the pots and shave the root ball down by about 1/3 (no more than half) and repot with fresh soil. When they wake up they should take off and start growing again and refilling those pots with roots, lol!
Why couldn't you prune the roots when you prune the tops of potted roses? That is precisely what they do when they harvest the plants from the growing fields prior to either sending them to you or storing them for shipment at bare root season. That's also what occurs when you transplant a rose from one spot to another, or remove it from the ground to be planted in a pot. The roots get pruned, and hopefully the tops, too, to keep them balanced so the plant has a greater chance of reestablishing itself and not dying from too extreme water stress. If you're receiving rains now, it's the perfect time to do the deed. You can pretty much get away with murder, figuratively speaking, when the rains keep the plants bathed in water after being so severely disturbed. Good luck! Kim
Joanie the picture in under the H section that Beth has posted in the rose gallery. I doubt it is much better than yours.
Thanks for the offers of starts from your farm. that would be so wonderful if we were able to do that. I was able to dig out about 25 roses from my Pugwash garden. Of course I have to wait till summer to see how many survived the transplant. Harisons is one of the ones I was able to dig out a piece to bring. The rest are mostly Austins, small ones. The bigger roses that I adored could not be dug out. I have tried to root some cuttings but so far not much success. I wanted to order Viking Queen and Ramblin Red from Pickering but they are not open this year. I have 5 new roses on order too. I might just break down and order from Hortico. LOL I can hardly wait to pick some roses for the house. Larry is building me a few fan thingies to attach some roses to the side of the house around back where we built a couple of new decks.
Pull the lower leaves off or let them drop naturally. Some bushes will lose their lower leaves 1-2 times a year as the leaf ages out. In summer, it can cause problems with sunburn, so it's important to keep your roses healthy with regular water, regular fertilization during active leaf and bud season and good mulching to retard weed growth (root competition) and retain soil moisture and reduce soil temps. Gravel is not good rose mulch. Looks like you're using wood chips.
You say these are 'babies'. Did you add any soil amendments when you planted them? In the low desert we recommend adding 1/2 cup each bone meal and soil sulfur in the hole before planting. We do not add gypsum as we already have plenty of calcium in our soils. Phosphate and sulfur don't break down readily and need to be in the root area to be effective. During the spring, about April 10th, add a tbls of chelated iron (recommend Kerex) and 1/2 cup Epsom Salts. Water thoroughly before and after application. Iron and Magnesium Sulfate (Epsom Salts) are also in short supply in our local soils.
Unless you are gardening in an area that receives flood irrigation, these amendments are pretty much standard requirements for good roses. If you're gardening in an older section of the Valley that receives flood irrigation, you can probably dispense with the soil sulfur and maybe even the Epsom Salts. These areas may even have somewhat acidic soils after all these years. The rest of us have alkaline clay with hard, alkaline water and rocks that aren't rocks but calcium-rich clay hardened into caliche (adobe bricks).
sooooo ready in Chicago, all ready to go. Mother Nature has other plans. 8-12 inches of snow expected . I look at it as prespring soaking and insulation
To get us thru February...the month when the earth cleanses itself in readiness for SPRING. I guess I am ready. After Xmas its a wild slide to FLOWER TIME.
Karen, the picture of AB climbing up our crab apple tree is a bit confusing, because right behind the crab apple tree is a huge Scarlet Oak. You can see the oak's large main limbs in the picture, but it is actually not the tree the rose is climbing up.
To answer your question, AB is rooted about 5-6 feet away from the trunk of the crab apple.
Jackie
mad_gallica, thanks for bringing this to my attention. The weight of the snow will definitely can cause pretty serious damage if the vine is heavy enough. I sometimes forget the conditions where I live (our area does get significant snow in some years) differ from the pics that I have seen of climbing vines growing up on trees. I believe all of these pics are from gardeners down south or CA.
Perhaps climbing rose is not such a good idea for this spot although I really appreciate everyone's suggestions. I will look into the climbing hydrangea and Jackie's advice to grow the plants on a raised bed will definitely help them. Thanks,
Karen
Sam, so very different than ours at Humpty Dumpty House, but so beautiful!
jasmine, I hope yours brings much joy!
. . . . .
The gardens at Humpty Dumpty House are temporarily closed. Please visit Humpty Dumpty House on facebook. If you like what we do, please give us a page "like". This simple act can help us get the gardens and our work back up and running during my absence due to an injury. ~Thank you!
https://www.facebook.com/HumptyDumptyHouse.
Here is a link that might be useful: Facebook Page for Humpty Dumpty House
I am really enjoying all the views on this thread,. Just gorgeous! THank you for sharing.
Christopher, I can't wait to see pics of your developing garden next year. It is really smart to put on the deer nettings for the clematis. I can just envision a wall of color when the clematis are in bloom. What an effect that will be! I hope you don't mind that I use your idea in part of my garden. Karen
Venosa Violacea is my favorite clematis. It is vigorous and hardy.