22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

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krissa

Thanks, I was wondering how high to prune. And thanks for the tip about the fertilizer.

I'll baby them, hopefully they make it through. They will look very pretty on my hillside. Hoping for a mild summer.

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seil zone 6b MI

Water them very well the day before you move them. On the day dig your holes in the new spots first. Then dig them out and move them quickly to their new homes. You can use a wheel barrow or drag them on a tarp to so you only have to handle the root ball as little as possible. As Jackie said water them in very well and keep them watered, but not soggy wet, for the first week. Don't panic if there is some wilt at first, that's fairly normal, but they should perk back up within a few days to a week. Good luck and let us know how it goes when you do it!

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ingrid_vc so. CA zone 9

Sister Elizabeth is beautiful and I love its cool lilac-pink color but it may do better if you can provide some afternoon shade. Still, worth trying even without the shade, since mine was planted in what is probably the hottest area of the garden near large, heat-reflecting boulders and that's not a fair test for any rose. I moved it later but then it was in too shady a spot. I hope to try it again some day. Young Lycidas is said to be a very unruly bush which grows every which way. I wouldn't know since mine hasn't grown much at all. The flowers are gorgeous, though. I'm now trying Charles Rennie McIntosh which is also supposed to be a rich lilac-pink color but it's just a small own-root plant at this point.

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ingrid_vc so. CA zone 9

I forgot to add that two Austins that are excellent in hot and dry climates are Bishop's Castle and Carding Mill. BS is also very fragrant, and CM blooms almost constantly, even in the heat.

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toolbelt68(7)

cnet.com has some good info on adblock. I installed it and haven't had a single one pop up. Just do a search on adblock at cnet.com.

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campv 8b AZ

Well GW is stating how to get rid of the popups but how did they start? I have not had any for a least a year and now they are everywhere on this site.
So what's up Garden Webb??????

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roseseek(9)

It's "granular" where the growth on your rose is smooth. I don't think you have anything to worry about. Kim

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lettyozzy

Thanks for the advice everyone :)

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dan_keil_cr Keil(Illinois z5)

One thing you want to do with a new bush is to cover the canes and pile it high over the canes. The rose has no roots on it yet. It has no way to replace the moisture lost. The mulch helps protect the canes.
The other thing you can do is to use Wiltpruf.

Dan Keil
ARS Q&A

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bart_2010(8/9 Italy)

I've started using cardboard,too,and am finding it very helpful,though i do see Jeri and Kim's point.Here in Tuscany the pattern tends to be for rain in autumn /winter, and a very dry spring/ summer,so what I am aiming for is to get as much as possible of my garden covered up with cardboard BEFORE THE SOIL DRIES OUT. Last year I found that the cardboard, when covered by organic matter, broke down extremely fast; I had to re-mulch two or three times at least. This year, my ideal aim would be to do my first mulching with the main idea of conserving the moisture. This will rot away too quickly to be of much help once bindweed season really gets underway in summer,so I'll have to re-do the whole thing then. But my main goal is to try to basically prevent my soil from drying out for as long as possible into the summer months,and to try to get control of the bindweed and some of the worst, most aggressive perennial weeds,and I don't think I could do that without the help of the cardboard..

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gcotterl(9)

This morning, I ripped all of the gazanias and weeds from my garden (alas, there's soil underneath!!!!).

While I was working around my yellow rose, I noticed the TAG!!! (I must've been blind in November).

My yellow rose is a Ch-Ching!

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seil zone 6b MI

Don't feel bad. I'm always hunting for my tags, lol. I'm glad you solved your mystery!

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bart_2010(8/9 Italy)

I'll have to check the Rogue Valley site again. I was under the impression that it was a lot more expensive than in Mariannese's experience (though the fact that it was a group order, with shared expenses, may well have helped cut down the price). And I admit I am very dubious about how well the plants could deal with the long shipping process, etc. I remember the nursery stating clearly that they could make no promises or guarantees,so part of the issue is not only it's simple do-ability, but whether it's actually worth doing. Sure, I'd love to have a Peggy Martin, a Climbing Pinkie, etc, in my garden, but I'd want healthy, thriving ones,not weaklings that would never really take off!

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anntn6b(z6b TN)

If you are interested in a very detailed overview, you may want to order "Combined Rose List" which lists many, many international as well as national nurseries, and the roses that they report offering as of December 2014. Contact numbers, and status of shipping (whether they do it or not) are also there.

Here is a link that might be useful: Combined Rose List

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AquaEyes 7a New Jersey

Jackie, I think Buford was directing the advice at the OP based on that climate.

:-)

~Christopher

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buford(7 NE GA)

Thank Christopher, I was. I am not that familiar with the PNW, but I have rose friends there and I don't think they have pruned yet.

It's really up to you. I normally get roses leafing out at this time of year because we do get mild winters (even though we get frosts and freezing temps). Especially the roses that get a lot of sun. As I've said, every time I don't prune because it's already leafed out, I regret it. And I usually have to prune a lot after the first flush.

And we are all victims of the weather. In 2007 we had a very warm winter and my roses were almost fully leafed out in early March. I did prune some. But many were full of buds or in bloom at the end of March. Then we had a disastrous hard frost on April 7th and 8th, Easter weekend. Everything was destroyed. All new growth was killed and the damage on some roses went back to the graft. I also lost my hydrangea blooms and almost my Japanese Maples and Gardenias. Some of the roses never recovered. There was probably nothing I could have done to prevent it, but after that year, I did wait until March to prune, no matter what was going on in my roses.

It depends on where you live and what type of spring you normally get. If you can get frosts in early spring, then delaying pruning may be a good idea.

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Kippy(SoCal zone 10. Sunset Zone 24)

I ended up planting 3 pears, 2 plums and 2 peaches and 1 each Apple, apricot and Plumcot.

The blueberries are moved as well as some clearing, transplanting and new varieties in the cane berries. I still need to get some more strawberries

Let hope we get that promised rain next week

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mustbnuts zone 9 sunset 9

Since I have palm trees and oak trees growing up in the middle of my rose bushes along with some roses reverting back to rootstock, I will be digging those roses out of my backyard bed. That means putting in new soil and amending it with compost, earth worm castings, organic fertilizer, bat guano, etc., before I put my new babies in the ground.

I am also getting plants coming up from the greenbelt area behind my house and am wondering (its either this year or the next) whether or not to put a root barrier the entire length of my back yard fence. UGH! Had to do that in the front yard with the fence I share with my neighbor last spring.

If I do this, that means my narcissis will be gone for the most part along with some other bulb plants as they border the fence. It will also be expensive too.

While I am digging things up, the electrical lights I have on my planters are not lighting up. Time to be replaced. I have tried the solar ones but they don't put off enough light for me.

I also need to get rid of my weaping santa rosa dwarf plum tree and my nectarine tree. The Santa Rosa is diseased and needs to go. It has lived out its life. The nectarine tree never produced good nectarines so I am thinking of getting a fruiting quince for that spot.

I am still waiting to see if I need to replace my varigated lemon tree as the freeze two years ago did quite the number on it. It was a waiting game all last year and I will see how it does in the spring.

My Myer lemon is also not doing well and I may have to move it to a different spot where it gets more sun. It did fine in this location for two years and now not so good. It is in a large pot so moving it shouldn't be too bad.

I will be moving my passion fruit vines to where they get more sun and hopefully more fruit next year. That means moving the veggie part of my garden (these are all in pots).

On the side yard there is a dying Japanese Maple tree that needs to go. I am thinking of replacing it with a purple crape myrtle similar to the one I just trimmed yesterday. It should provide enough shade for my more delicate Austin's that prefer a bit of afternoon shade during our hot summers.

My Pink Muhly grass needs to be probably removed in the front. It borders my and my neighbor's yard. She never takes care of her side and so crab grass has gotten into it and I can't seem to get rid of it. So, looks like I will have to start from scratch again. She just replanted her yard, so I am hoping I can get rid of the crab grass once and for all.

Whoooose! I am tired just thinking about this (although it is exciting) and then there is the every day work of keeping up with things, getting rid of dreaded oxalis, etc.

Next year, I am hoping I can finally afford my patio pergola, but I think that will probably be another couple of years down the road.

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nippstress - zone 5 Nebraska

On the other rose you'd mentioned - Doris Day - I planted this for the first time last year. I pinch off buds in the first year so I think only one bloom was able to sneak past me. It was a nice rich golden color but I don't recall any particular scent. I have high hopes for hardiness of this one, but I know you grow yours in pots and pull them in for the winter so it's not a huge issue for you. If this were the only yellow I was ordering, I'd go with something more reliable like Julia Child or Molineux, but the dark gold isn't a frequent sight except in things like Henry Fonda or other dark gold HTs.

FWIW - not much yet to go on though, as it's a new introduction last year.

Cynthia

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canadian_rose(zone 3a)

Krista - thanks! I'm sold!! As to the others - they're not available here. But I'll keep them in mind. I've thought about Harlow Carr before. Mmmmm.

Marlorena - Candy floss sweet!!! Be still my beating heart/nose. LOL That sounds perfect!!

Cynthia - Doris Day sounds like a no go, because fragrance is key for me. However, let us know on the forum how the scent goes - maybe the scent will come through this summer.

Thanks!
Carol

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lettyozzy

Thanks everyone for the advice! I did contact Jackson and Perkins and they will be sending me another one :)

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seil zone 6b MI

I would still plant this one and see what it does. It seems to have 4 big healthy canes on it!

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sultry_jasmine_nights (Florida 9a)

The Alnwick Rose is so beautiful, old fashioned, and elegant looking. Ahhhh another one for the wishlist this year lol.

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KarenPA_6b

What a gorgeous thread! I love them all. Every rose is a beauty! I have never known Marchesa Boccella but after seeing your pic, Pat, I wish I have it grown in my garden. What a rare treat!

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jjpeace (zone 5 US/zone 6 Can)

Hey Marlorena. Oh it is just a slang word for "Canadian", at least in the modern sense. Sort of when some people may call Americans "Yanks or Yankees" etc.

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Marlorena(Z8-9 England)

..yeah...thanks JJ...I looked it up on Urban Dictionary.... I had been thinking it was maybe a First Nation term.. something like that... excuse my ignorance here on this...
...it sounds rather sweet actually...

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kittymoonbeam

Pink GAA is a great plant. It will keep blooming all season and the shape of the plant is beautiful and full.

Sister says I should have planted enchanted evening in that place but it's happy by PJPII so I'm not messing with it!

Savoy Hotel and Quietness look so pretty. I wonder if they would be happy in a half barrel. I worry that the tree roots will eventually take over if I planted in the soil. My barrel is sitting on a large round stone to keep roots from coming in the drain holes. That's what happened before when it was under another tree. That tree's gone and I got this new flowering tree. If I have to rake leaves then I want flowers. I have lavender and white roses under the pink crepe myrtle and so I thought to reverse it for the other.

If I had a magic wand I'd have a pale pink raubritter that re blooms like iceberg!

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kentucky_rose zone 6

Seil, is Quietness thorny or BS prone? Would it be good in a vase?
Nippstress, is Savoy Hotel thorny or BS prone? How's vase life?
Both of these roses sound so tempting. Thanks in advance for info.

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redc22(9)

I live in the Bay Area and I completed pruning last week.

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catspa_NoCA_Z9_Sunset14

I started pruning the day after Christmas here in Livermore, as usual. The frosts we get are not likely to be severe enough to damage roses though they will knock down unprotected, tender plants like nasturtiums and pelargoniums.

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