22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Just an update, because I saw this thread in the current posts...
I received a one gallon rose from Heirloom about 3 weeks ago and was shocked! The size of the canes, the root system and health was like no other one gallon plant I have received. I don't know if this is their standard or a fluke, but I really hope they make more one gallon plants available if they are similar to the one I received.
I continue to be very happy with this vendor.
Lynn
I really was impressed w/ Heirloom and thought their roses were extremely healthy.
I purchased:
2 Henri Martin Moss Roses
1 Salet Moss Rose
1 Green Ice Mini
All of them are doing extremely well. I have one HM in part shade. All are growing very well, I planted them directly in the garden. The mini has even been putting off blooms for several weeks now.
I will be shopping with Heirloom a lot in the future.
Something I have noticed is that when I first start planting roses in an area I never had them before they seem to get attacked by rose slugs. But by the next season the good guys seem to discover they have a new area to patrol.
I planted poor Othello in a new area and it looks like it has flyswatters for leaves. Bet in a couple of seasons it will only have a few holes like the rest of the beds have done. But I sure feel bad for that rose right now.
Since this thread is active I will ask here. On my other thread I had a huge sucker rose. I cut it off. However, there were stems still sticking out from the root. I did my best to cut the sucker stem as close to the root as possible. Since I am a new gardener can you tell me if I did it right? Do you think it's close enough or should I cut closer? By the way, is there anyway I can click on a button where I can see all of my posts?Thanks for all of your help.
Please STOP cutting off all the new canes on your roses! Not all new canes that come up from the base of a rose are suckers nor are they all root stock shoots.
First you need to know if your rose is an own root rose. A variety of rose growing only on it's own roots. If that is the case then ALL canes coming up from the bottom are your rose and are not suckers or root stock.
A grafted rose is one variety of rose grafted unto the top of another variety of rose for it's root stock only. The purpose of the grafting is to add extra growing vigor to a variety that may not be as strong of a grower on it's own roots. That is why certain varieties of roses are used as root stocks. They are VERY vigorous growers and will add extra umph to the weaker variety.
If you have grafted roses you have to find the where the graft is and then figure out if the new cane is coming from above or below that graft. If the cane is above the graft knot then it is NOT a sucker but a new cane of the variety you want. If the cane is from below or beneath the graft then it is most probably the root stock coming up and should be removed at it's source, destroying the growth node in the process to prevent resprouting. If you live in a cold zone and you plant your grafts below ground for wintering purposes then you need to uncover the graft and find out where that cane is coming from before you remove it.
Funrose, on your first picture I do not see any suckers on that plant at all! They all look like your rose and your rose looks very happy, healthy and growing and blooming well. Leave it alone!
On the second set of pictures it's harder to tell where the graft is but I'm thinking that you may have cut off perfectly healthy new rose growth from your rose and not root stock coming up. Next time let them grow out some. You will easily be able to tell that there is a difference in the appearance of regular new rose canes and the root stock canes which will tend to be sort of spindly and the leaves will look very different. And not all roses have only 3 or 5 leaf sets. There are some roses that will occasionally have 7 leaf sets. So you can't just go by that.
Roses do not grow just from one cane or trunk like a tree. They grow from several points. Most grafted roses will have several points where the wanted variety has been grafted to the root stock variety. So they also grow from more than one point on the graft. I have roses that have 6 to 8 canes coming up from the graft. All of which are the correct variety and not root stock.
The thing about feeding it is I haven't been confident about whether I should be treating it as a first year plant (no fertilizing) or a 2nd year plant. So - in early June I did put down a conservative amount (not a "kick in the pants" amount) of organic food - either Rose tone or Milorganite, I can't remember which. Then last week I gave all my roses a fish emulsion feeding.
Grandma, it's getting awfully late in the season to plant anything new. For one thing, most nurseries won't have any selection left. For another the rose may not have adequate time to settle in before cold weather comes. Wait until next spring and pick out a rose you love to replace this one with. You can look for something that grows on it's own roots, so you won't have the root stock growing problem, or you can still get a grafted rose but plant that graft a good 4 or 5 inches below the soil to protect it from winter freezing. It still isn't fool proof but it will help for most winters.
Jeri is right. What you probably have is a HYBRID TEA not a TEA rose. They are very different and in your zone 5 a real TEA rose has NO chance of surviving your winters. They are extremely winter tender. But there are many HYBRID TEA roses that can survive a zone 5 winter if planted correctly. My suggestion is to look for some of the older varieties that have stood the test of time. They're still around for many reasons and one of them is that they are hardier then people think they are.
That is some type of rose fungal disease. You would have to post a nice clear closeup pic for others to know for sure what fungal disease it may be.
It is normal for SOME roses to get these fungal diseases then to drop some or all of its leaves over a period of time.
Options in your case are to just ignore it and sooner or later the rose bush will grow new leaves.
OR
Spray leaves with a fungicide on a regular cycle throughout the growing season...
I choose not to spray here so someone else can help you with that info...
There is some black spot and I think I can see the start of some powdery mildew problems too. Look for the Bayer Rose Disease Control product (NOT the 2 in 1 or 3 in 1 products!) and give it a good spray following the instructions on the bottle carefully. If you are experiencing hot humid days and cool nights that's the perfect weather for these fungal diseases to show up.
I've seen Hoplia Beetles and Fuller Rose Weevils here but in the forty-five years I've lived in and around Los Angeles, never have I encountered a Japanese Beetle. Thank heavens! Fortunately, both of the former are fairly cyclical. Some years I seen virtually none, others they are obviously present, but never to the extent Japanese Beetles are elsewhere in the country. I don't do anything about them other than to squash them by fingers. Kim
It sounds like the wrong plant in the wrong place. Harison's Yellow is at its best given a lot of space to spread out and make a good clump. It's nature is to be leggy and spread out, and mass makes it look better.
It is extremely unlikely that you will kill it by hard pruning. However, it won't bloom next year.
It sounds like a once blooming rose. They only bloom on old wood. Usually those are pruned only AFTER they have bloomed out for the current season. However, if it hasn't bloomed yet and you don't see any buds forming on it yet it may not bloom this season so pruning it now should be fine. It could be that this past winter killed off the year old wood that would have bloomed this season. It was a very nasty winter.
Take out any dead wood and cut it down to the height you want then leave it alone to grow back new wood that should bloom next year. Yes, keep it watered and fertilize it. If you have any pictures from last years bloom post them and maybe we can ID it for you.
Well I now have some good size blooms coming along, as shown in the pictures below. But I also have another question, what could be causing the yellow leaves on the plant?
I know over/under watering could be happening although I know it is not under watering. And also I read it could be because of light not getting to those leaves due to the leaves at the top of the bush.
I know the rose is doing well due to all of the new blooms and growth going on, just not near the bottom.
Thanks
Pictures:
http://oi62.tinypic.com/10nfev6.jpg
http://oi61.tinypic.com/vr3p1l.jpg
http://oi61.tinypic.com/vy5k6f.jpg
http://oi59.tinypic.com/2a62kcj.jpg
Carol that first pic with all the blooms is the dreaded Double Knockout rose. lol
That certain rose bush has not been fertilized this year except for some homemade compost I spread over top its root system back in mid May...
Wow! What a trooper of a rose!! That's like John Davis - I don't do anything - only water twice a month, and it looks like great. It looks even better since I took this picture.
Darn. the picture wouldn't load. Drat.
Carol