22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Thank you Frances for the detailed instructions on planting bands. I just ordered two bands from Rouge Valley for delivery next week.
If I understand correctly, I will pot these bands up into one gallon containers, keep them watered and fertilized, and set them outdoors in a sunny location until October. Then bury the potted plants in my garden, mulch the first several inches, and leave them through winter. Come spring I can dig up them up, remove the pot, and transplant into their final location.
I also have a home in central NJ, so I'll plant one there and one here at my Virginia home.
Tom
You are very welcome, Tom! Your understanding is correct. As I said, I have used this approach for many years and never lost a little rose yet! I hope it'll all work out as well for you. Please send us an update in spring. If you are inclined to take pictures, I'd love to see photos of your Old Ports next year!
All best,
Frances
Roseseek, there WAS a diesel vehicle idling by the bush this week!!! I suppose if the leaves are sticky, they can pick up the exhaust.
There was a vinca bush near the roses that was horribly infested with...what, aphids, white flies? When I yanked it I noticed stuff flying in the air, gnats or dusty stuff, not sure. Left a greasy mark on the pavement it had grown over. I sprayed the rose bush with water which didn't do much unless I rubbed the wet leaf between my fingers. It's on the old growth, not the newer growth. We'll see how it goes now that the vinca is gone.
Thanks everyone.
It's been a bad year for white fly here, too. Getting rid of the vinca should help relieve the water stress caused by the competition and eliminate their habitiat. I would turn on the hose to a trickle and wash all the yuck off the rose foliage. It will rehydrate the rose and help prevent the diesel from destroying those leaves. If you put down your fertilizer before you wash the foliage, you can kill two birds with the same stone...cleaning the foliage and watering in the food. Good luck! I'm glad it appears it was something simple. Kim
Zack is right, that's the good Doctor and if you don't take him out, right down to below the ground, he will eventually take over and destroy your rose.
Follow the cane(s) down to the ground and then dig the soil off of them and find out where they connect to the roots. At that point you want to RIP OFF the canes. Yank down and away HARD. Don't just cut them back because they will just grow right back again. You need to destroy the growth node so it will not send up another shoot.
Your 2nd noid reminds me of The Generous Gardener.
Here is a link that might be useful: The Generous Gardener at HMF
I know that fragrance is important to gardeners, but keep in mind that the two weakest genes in the roses are the deep red and the fragrance one. Pirouette does have a "rose smell" but it isn't strong. So if you breed a beautiful deep, velvety red with a Damask fragrance, you will have a shrub that will cause you more problems then say a pink one. Papa Meilland is a good example. The old father desperately wanted to breed a top red rose and when he was dying, his son went into the fields to try and find any flower that would make his father think it was a good one. He picked a bloom from a sad looking shrub with lots of BS on it but had a perfect flower on it. He took it in and showed it to his father who got excited because he said it was perfect. What shall you call the rose he asked his son, and his son replied Papa Meilland.
Thank you for the comments on the Fragrant Path . I think I'll re-name it to that. I was calling it the Perfumed Path before, but Fragrant Path seems to work better. Thanks for the suggestion, sara.
Just for the record: Not blooming yet along my Fragrant Path are two fragrant beauties: at one end, Oklahoma; at the other end, Double Delight. Those two are "stars" along the Fragrant Path.
Kate
Thank you Kate - Glad you like the name, I inadvertently called in that, I appreciate your subtleness. I love the idea of all those fragrant roses together. I'm going to have to get Oklahoma, I've read so many good things about it that I need to give it a try.
Bellarosa, since you're closer to my zone, I can share the information that Awakening is hardy and healthy in zone 5 in part shade. I've attached a picture of it duking out space with a Snow Queen oakleaf hydrangea. You can see that it gets big, as the fence is 6 feet and these are only a few branches of the well-established Awakening bush. Any climber in part shade is going to flower less and have more disease risk than in full sun, but for me this one is mostly plant and forget (unless I need to climb near the fence - not a happy prospect). Other part-shade climbers that do fine for me include Blossomtime, Compassion, Laguna, Dixieland Linda, Madame Bovary, Clair Matin, and Darlow's Enigma (not really a climber for me but a huge shrub, but he's also in mostly shade).
Lynette, your photo is gorgeous of Awakening and shows the discrepancy between a climber in full sun and mine in part shade. Hrose, one of the reasons we don't post full bush shots of most roses is that most of them just get too big to fit in the shot with any level of detail. Even though I was trying to capture the whole Awakening bush, I was nowhere close - particularly with a climber.
Cynthia
We had 24 KO double red planted in April by a nursery we have dealt with for over 20 years. 3 plants were replaced because they didn't grow. They didn't die either, they just didn't do anything. Several of the remaining plants have very narrow leaves. Some have red leaves and canes but no thorns so I can't confirm RRD. Note neighbors have mature KO hedges with no apparent problems. I have another plant that has neither grown nor died. Any suggestions?
The color and form is really striking. Too bad about the light fragrance. You ought to take a look at VIKING QUEEN. It has wonderfully scented voluptuous blooms similar in form to those in your pic. It is also fairly mannerly in its growth habit, has reliable repeat bloom and the foliage is disease resistant. Would be just about perfect if it weren't for the vicious thorns.
Here is a link that might be useful: Viking Queen at HelpMeFind Roses
Jasminerose, double thanks for the great link to Tom Carruth's presentation & the reminder of Jardins de Bagatelle! Delicious in every way, grew it in the late 80's in a colder more exposed garden where it succumbed to cold. Thinking this garden would be more hospitable, would happily welcome it and again inhale that heavenly perfume.
Here is a link that might be useful: Jardins de Bagatelle
I have heard the 'acidic clay soil means no Dr. Huey' but I can attest that the Dr. Does quite well here in our red acidic clay. Too well, in fact.
Buford,
Huey will do well enough in acidic clay, but my real concern is that it is not very suitable to colder climates. It will typically decline rapidly or die off altogether in 3 years up here. I can't really say how Huey performs in US zone 6b long term as I have no experience in such a scenario, but I do know that multiflora will not have any cold related issues and would probably be better suited overall when you add acidic clay into the mix.