22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

Bellarosa, since you're closer to my zone, I can share the information that Awakening is hardy and healthy in zone 5 in part shade. I've attached a picture of it duking out space with a Snow Queen oakleaf hydrangea. You can see that it gets big, as the fence is 6 feet and these are only a few branches of the well-established Awakening bush. Any climber in part shade is going to flower less and have more disease risk than in full sun, but for me this one is mostly plant and forget (unless I need to climb near the fence - not a happy prospect). Other part-shade climbers that do fine for me include Blossomtime, Compassion, Laguna, Dixieland Linda, Madame Bovary, Clair Matin, and Darlow's Enigma (not really a climber for me but a huge shrub, but he's also in mostly shade).
Lynette, your photo is gorgeous of Awakening and shows the discrepancy between a climber in full sun and mine in part shade. Hrose, one of the reasons we don't post full bush shots of most roses is that most of them just get too big to fit in the shot with any level of detail. Even though I was trying to capture the whole Awakening bush, I was nowhere close - particularly with a climber.
Cynthia


We had 24 KO double red planted in April by a nursery we have dealt with for over 20 years. 3 plants were replaced because they didn't grow. They didn't die either, they just didn't do anything. Several of the remaining plants have very narrow leaves. Some have red leaves and canes but no thorns so I can't confirm RRD. Note neighbors have mature KO hedges with no apparent problems. I have another plant that has neither grown nor died. Any suggestions?


The color and form is really striking. Too bad about the light fragrance. You ought to take a look at VIKING QUEEN. It has wonderfully scented voluptuous blooms similar in form to those in your pic. It is also fairly mannerly in its growth habit, has reliable repeat bloom and the foliage is disease resistant. Would be just about perfect if it weren't for the vicious thorns.
Here is a link that might be useful: Viking Queen at HelpMeFind Roses



Jasminerose, double thanks for the great link to Tom Carruth's presentation & the reminder of Jardins de Bagatelle! Delicious in every way, grew it in the late 80's in a colder more exposed garden where it succumbed to cold. Thinking this garden would be more hospitable, would happily welcome it and again inhale that heavenly perfume.
Here is a link that might be useful: Jardins de Bagatelle

There are many nurseries in the UK that would probably have a nice selection of standard roses to choose from.
Here is a link that might be useful: UK nurseries on HMF

I think what might be a better route would be to see what kinds of roses are offered as standards where you are, make a list of the red and white ones, and then ask about those particular varieties. It would be a shame for someone from the US to recommend a variety to you that is not available as a standard in the UK. Sure, you can inquire about custom propagation, but that will be more expensive (and require a longer wait-time) than simply selecting from those already offered.
:-)
~Christopher



IâÂÂve had my Falling in Love (grafted on Dr Huey) for about 5 years. Seems like it was slow to repeat its first year, but I canâÂÂt remember if it was slow to grow, as well. It is one of my later roses to bloom each spring, but once it starts, it has flushes that repeat fairly quickly with scattered blooms in between. The bush itself isnâÂÂt very prettyâ¦EXTREMELY thorny and rather awkward growth (mine grows more on one side of the bush than the other)â¦but itâÂÂs not slow to grow. Right now, mine is about 5 ý ft tall and 4 feet wide, and will get a bit bigger by the time our season ends. The blooms themselves are big, beautiful, fragrant, long lasting and plentiful. They last a good while on the bush and in a vaseâ¦one of my very favorites for cutting. I'm in a hot and humid climate, and FIL will blackspot some here...no better or worse than most of my roses...about average blackspot resistance for me.
Here are few pictures of mine..
This is the only bush shot I could find...from early June after days of very heavy rain:






Other than color, the leaves look fine to me. It looks like the red of new growth fading to the chartreuse of chlorosis. Try getting some granular Ironite and sprinkling it around the roses showing this. I saw this a bit on some of my roses with heavy Multiflora background -- Polyanthas and Hybrid Musks, 'Bleu Magenta' and the related 'Purple Skyliner' -- soon after the first set of leaves in Spring, and also following any bouts of heavy rain. It's as though the leaves are forming faster than the roots can suck up iron to get them fully green. I got a big bag of Ironite for lawns and kept it on-hand for whenever I noticed it happen again.
:-)
~Christopher

It's extreme iron deficiency chlorosis where the plant is unable to produce chlorophyll at all. Causes could include high (alkaline) PH, waterlogging, or if the pattern of growth is abnormal, herbicide damage or rose rosette disease. Please provide clear images from the side showing the thorns and how the stems branch--the upper foot or two of the affected stems. Tell us anything that might bear on the possible causes listed above. (Water, use of lime, possible herbicide exposure--even a stray droplet).


Great! And insufficient water could also be an issue, if this is a drier year than you are used to having. In the summer months, roses need either about an inch of rain a week or thorough irrigation. A rose 3' wide could use 4 gallons a week in zone 8 Portland, 5 gallons in zone 8 Charleston, or 6 gallons in zone 8 Dallas.
Please do let us know how it goes.

If you can't find Rose Tone, I've been very happy with Jobe's Organic Knock-Out fertilizer. But as Kate said, "roses aren't really overly fussy." If you find cheaper organic fertilizers with similar ratios (the N-P-K is listed as #-#-# on the bags), they'll work as well. Feed the soil, and the soil will feed the plants.
:-)
~Christopher

Roses are heavy feeders, and if you have not been fertilizing at all this is definitly where you need to start. I use 10-10-10 with very good results so if that's what you have at home use that. If the plants only have a few leaves you definitly don't want to cut any off, so since you didn't prune this year I would just wait til next Feb. to prune. Theres great online videos to show you how to prune if you need some tips. Heres one I like. http://www.youtube.com/user/AshdownRoses
Here is a link that might be useful: Ashdown Roses

That is nice. I can't like 'Westerland', or sports, but I believe I would like 'Salita' I love the color shadings. I am wondering if 'Salita' might not add some interest to a mostly pink and white row, without bringing on the dreaded "fruit salad" look.







Thank you for the comments on the Fragrant Path . I think I'll re-name it to that. I was calling it the Perfumed Path before, but Fragrant Path seems to work better. Thanks for the suggestion, sara.
Just for the record: Not blooming yet along my Fragrant Path are two fragrant beauties: at one end, Oklahoma; at the other end, Double Delight. Those two are "stars" along the Fragrant Path.
Kate
Thank you Kate - Glad you like the name, I inadvertently called in that, I appreciate your subtleness. I love the idea of all those fragrant roses together. I'm going to have to get Oklahoma, I've read so many good things about it that I need to give it a try.