22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

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andreark

Thank you all. I haven't seen any disease or infestations, so I will just continue to pull off the dead (and ugly) leaves. I'm already seeing new bud eye growth, so I'll just continue doing what I have been doing.

You know, for the first year or so of growing my roses, I thought that after a while, I would know most of what I needed to know..... Silly me!! This is a much longer learning curve than I originally expected. But it's a FUN learning curve. I'm having a great time with it.

And happy new year to you all too.

andrea

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mustbnuts zone 9 sunset 9

Sounds like your plants are going through a normal process in winter. I do prune mine the week between Christmas and New Year. I do strip the leaves off so I force the plants into dormancy and give them a rest before spring. Come Feb/March, they will leaf out again and be beautiful. Although I do like the starkness of the garden in winter as well. It makes the spring all that more amazing.

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edenh(z9)

From Central Florida:
No/very little bs:
Julia Child
Livin' Easy
Happy Child
Clothilde Soupert
The faun

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bayourose

My healthiest roses in my no spray, hot and humid Louisiana garden have been: sweet fragrance, freckles, Beverly, Mrs. B.R. can't, mons tillier, quietness, and molineaux. Hopefully they will continue to be healthy and provide more beautiful blooms! I can't wait for spring!

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nanadollZ7 SWIdaho(Zone 7 Boise SW Idaho)

Here's Augusta before the buds have fully opened. Her colors vary from pale peaches and pinks to bright orangy apricots. Ddiane

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bayourose

Let me tell everyone that the pictures on this thread have been so exquisite!!!! Such eye candy! This has been such a fun and interesting thread to see which roses have done well for everyone this year. Thanks for sharing your pictures and input on your roses. Lots of new roses and several that I would definitely like to get my hands on in the coming year. It was interesting to see how we all voted this year and there was a 3-way tie for the 2014 rose of the year........Julia's child, Love song, and Pope John Paul II. The runners up or ones that got more than one vote were: Beverly, double delight, mutabilis, lady of shalott, south Africa, peace, gold medal, Marie van houtte, tiffany, belindas dream, hot cocoa, Gemini, and don juan. I think we should do this again next year to see how we all fared and see if our favorites are still the same or have changed given all the variables we may encounter in the coming year. Thanks to all who participated and Happy New Year to everyone! May everything come up rosey in the new year! Shannon

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ingrid_vc so. CA zone 9

Welcome back, Diane, and a very happy new year to you and everyone else. Your rose is so beautiful; I really love all the different shadings of Augusta Luise, not to mention its ruffles.

Here in a very southern part of southern California we've had snow and temperatures hovering around the 30's at night. Before that we had a bit of rain so all that moisture is welcome. Further inland there was even more snow, and naturally everyone freaks out as though this were some incredible phenomenon. In Minnesota they probably would have considered this a balmy spring day.

Ingrid

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titian1 10b Sydney

I'm glad too, to see you posting again, Diane. And thankyou, for raving about Julia Child. I have my own now, and she's so healthy and well-shaped, and takes baking afternoon sun without batting an eye.

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erasmus_gw

I got some new ones in last spring and was delighted with all of them. Chartreuse de Parme was my favorite, just a gorgeous color, very full blooms, intoxicating scent and the blooms were extremely long lasting. I remember the fragrance persisted for at least a week. The plant seems to have good vigor too. Dames de Chenonceau is gorgeous, Henri Matisse has big striped blooms with good repeat,
Nahema has a powerful fragrance , exquisite beauty and good vigor. Alfred Sisley is one of my favorite striped roses. It's incredibly healthy, repeats fast, love the colors, and it has a lot of hips in fall. Makes a good shrubby plant. I'm impressed with Delbards.

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SoFL Rose z10

Delbards are spectacular, but do better in warm climates (on a whole). Delbard has a large variety however. Some more cold hardy than others. But a lot of them do best in warm climates. And not all have scent. I grow Eden, papi Delbard, nahema and dames de chennonceau ( my favorite of all). There are SO many types of roses however, so don't limit yourself to one breeder. See what does best in your climate. There is a rose (many in fact) for every garden.

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AnneCecilia z5 MI(5a)

I do appreciate the further information on Florentina. It is good to know that the canes are easily trainable which makes it a good candidate for my fence in full sun. I was hoping that there would be *some* fragrance as Palatine's description says "fragrant rose" - I'd even settle for it being faint, not expecting the fragrance of an old rose or even an Austin. Well, I guess I will just have to give it a try. Disease free is another desirable quality in my no-spray garden, so thank you Cynthia for your experience.
I'll let you all know down the road how it does for me!

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newroses

We try to be honest about the fragrance and not promise what we don't think is present. I spend a lot of time evaluating fragrance in roses. You are right it seems there are not many fragrant climbers. I think Kordes Golden Gate has moderate spicy fragrance. Another Kordes with very good fragrance and very good cold hardiness is Laguna. There are repeated very good reports on cold hardiness in the Midwest. it is an ADR winner with really great disease resistance.
Chris

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Patty W. zone 5a Illinois

Thanks Henry, I ordered Ice Cap last month. I'm thinking it is a double form of White Out. Being short and scentless is perfect here as they are seldom bothered by the hordes of Japanese Beatles that we have here.

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seil zone 6b MI

They all sound good but then they always do in the press releases,lol! I'll wait a bit and see what people think of them.

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seil zone 6b MI

I grew Blaze in a pot and it did great. You do have to have a BIG pot though. Not just for the root system but also to counter weight all that top growth so it doesn't topple over. The pot I used was about 2 1/2 X 2 1/2 feet and I had a small trellis in the pot to tie the canes to. It was in that pot for 5 years before I got it in the ground. Now that I think of it, it bloomed more in the pot than it does in the ground!

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erasmus_gw

Here's Crepuscule growing in a large pot by my front door. It is rarely watered and has a lot of competition from English ivy growing in the same pot. I throw my mop water on it.
It is starting to decline some but has done fairly well for five years or so. I have a large Constance Spry plant in a pot but it rooted through the hole a long time ago. Used to have a big Lavender Lassie in a big pot. It got too big for the area it was in. It also had rooted through the hole.

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pfzimmerman(6/7 Upstate SC)

You might try Jack Falker's method of using leaves to protect them. Keep in mind it's cold winds that cause the most damage. So surrounding them with a wind barrier is the best thing you can do.

Also if you lose some of the tops that's okay. You'll just prune that off in early spring. focus on the bottom 12" or so.

Here is a link that might be useful: Jack's blog post

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seil zone 6b MI

I haven't seen any actual leaves yet but there is definitely some plump red leaf buds out there. Nothing you can really do about it. Just leave them alone and hope for the best. This freeze and thaw stuff is the real culprit that kills most roses. And the freeze is already on its way for this coming week. If the roses went into winter healthy and you gave the crowns some protection even if you lose some of the canes they should still be fine and come back next spring.

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henry_kuska

"Preliminary data showed that epsom salt application (in addition to N-P-K), on a monthly schedule, did not reduce the disease incidence but did reduce defoliation compared to plants receiving no secondary nutrients. However, the plants treated with epsom salts or CaCl2 were less vigorous and produced fewer flowers than nontreated plants or plants treated with calcium sulfate (Figure 2)."

http://www.aaes.auburn.edu/comm/pubs/highlightsonline/summer96/blackspot.htm
_________________________________________
"As to the claim of the effectiveness of Epsom salts to combat fungus infections in plants, no real evidence supports this. Reports done by Washington State University and other research facilities have shown that Epsom salts have no affect on apple scab or other mildews. However, many gardening enthusiasts and websites, including the National Gardening Association, say that applying Epsom salts can produce healthier plants by providing magnesium to the soil and reducing leaf loss."

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/epsom-salt-remedy-plant-fungus-89103.html

Here is a link that might be useful: link for first epson study

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bart_2010(8/9 Italy)

I gathered from Bierkreek that adding sugar to one's soil helps stimulate the growth of mychrorriza funghi (please excuse eventual spelling error). In fact, this year,I decided to try sprinkling white sugar around in my garden; NOT hundreds of pounds of it,of course;just a bit in each new rose hole,plus a couple bags sprinkled sparsely around on the soil. I can't see what harm it could do...

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jasminerose4u, California 9b

Have you considered purchasing it as a own-root rose? High Country Roses has it. They told me they only carry varieties that they believe do well own-root. The climbing rose I ordered from them is doing very well. Best wishes in your search.

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Michaela .:. thegarden@902 .:. (Zone 5b - Iowa)

What a gorgeous bloom!!

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kentucky_rose zone 6

Great to see blooming roses this late in the season!

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jerijen(Zone 10)

Amanda, I wish I could say that isn't true. But I am afraid it IS true. So sad.

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nummykitchen(Z5B)

I have this one along with Hypnotized and Neil Diamond on order for the spring. Can't wait for some new striped roses, they are always such a surprise with every bloom! I can't find either Hypnotized or Daring Spirit on hmf just yet but I loved your shot of Neil Diamond!!

Andrea

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AquaEyes 7a New Jersey

If by "pruned to make neater" you mean "make it grow as a tight bush, like a Hybrid Tea or Floribunda" then I'd say "probably not." Noisettes will grow into spreading shrubs, much like their 'R. moschata' ancestor. You should plant yours where you can fit something which will spread up to eight feet wide. Some people grow it trained as a broad and shrubby climber, so that's another option. But trying to keep it "small, neat, and tidy" will be going against how this rose wants to grow, and will be an on-going and often losing battle. See pics of it on HelpMeFind in the link below.

As for care, simply think of it as a big flowering shrub. Throw some RoseTone or other organic fertilizer on it when it starts leafing out in Spring, maybe again after the peak of Summer heat has passed, and water it deeply when you go past a week without rain. Otherwise, the old Noisettes are pretty easy where it's not too cold for them -- and if you're in USDA zone 8b, you're right where they love to be.

Check the Antique Rose Forum for more information on this and other Noisettes.

:-)

~Christopher

Here is a link that might be useful: 'Champneys' Pink Cluster' on HelpMeFind

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bluegirl_gw

Hey Pinkpearls,
Champney's does great in TX. It grows big enough that it needs to be put in the ground, eventually. If you can plant it while the weather is cool, it will help it to get its roots established to survive summer heat.

Plant it in a good soil mix, in good sun, & mulch well.

I'd resist the temptation to tidy it up by pruning now. In fact, I'd not prune for 2-3 years (yes, YEARS). Young roses, especially the ogrs, often go through a gangly "teenager" stage of sloppy irregular growth. But they need every cane & leaf to feed them while growing.

My 20+ yr. old Champney's is now a nice upright vase shape of long, thick basal canes topped by flowering sprays. I only occasionally remove a cane (from ground level, every year or so) to allow room for new basals to come up & renew the plant.

It's a good looking rose & blooms almost continuously.

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AquaEyes 7a New Jersey

OK, so to answer the question "Shouldn't this be considered as evidence that PNRSV can infect roses by mechanisms other than grafting?", I say "No, because other methods of infection were not excluded, and thus this fails to disprove your null hypothesis."

:-)

~Christopher

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henry_kuska

Christopher, could you give a reference for your use of "Null hypothesis"?

-------------------------------------
The following was stated: "Henry's science background is in Chemistry. Mine was originally Animal Science for Pre-Vet, then a recent "second time around" at college for Psychology and Physical Anthropology, with special interests in genetics, ethology, and a dash of neural and hormonal influences on behavior. So neither of us is really the one to ask about plant viruses. That person would be Dr. Malcolm Manners."
------------------------------------------------------------
H.Kuska comment. A Ph.D degree in Physical Chemistry is expected to prepare a scientist to investigate the physics, and chemistry involved in understanding nature. It is a very broad theoretical based major in nature understanding.

Some examples can be found in the following links:

http://degreedirectory.org/articles/Colleges_with_Physical_Chemistry_Degree_Programs_FAQs.html

"Physical chemistry seeks to understand the physical and scientific basis of molecular properties and chemical phenomena. It can be used to understand how proteins fold, how nanostructures form and why holes in the ozone layer originated"

http://degreedirectory.org/directory/category/Physical_Science/Chemistry_Sciences/Theoretical_and_Physical_Chemistry.html
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Regarding Dr. Manners knowledge and my knowledge of rose viruses. In almost any field there are more than one Ph.D. scientist that can contribute to the field.

This is illustrated in this particular situation by the citations in one of the most recent rose viruses reviewed published scientific papers.

Dr. Manners is cited for his: " Manners MM (1997) Effects of rose mosaic disease on performance of hybrid tea roses in Florida. Proc Fla State Hortic Soc 110:118��"121"

This is the context for the use of his presented paper: "Previous reports have shown that symptom expression, virus distribution and virus detection can be influenced by several factors including cultivar, changing seasons/weather and growing conditions (Manners 1997; Sala-Rejczak and Paduch-Cichal 2005; Sertkaya 2010; Wong et al. 1988)."

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I am cited for the following paper: "Kuska H (2003) Can North American rose hybridizers use pollen from virus infected roses? Rose Hybridizers Assoc Newsl 34:7��"10"

This is the context for the use of my paper: "PNRSV is known to be transmitted mechanically, by root grafting and by seed (Abdel-Salam et al. 2008; Golino et al. 2011). The virus may be transmitted by pollen in rose although this hasn’t been fully ascertained (Kuska 2003)."

AND

"Reports of pollen transmission of ApMVin rose are inconclusive (Kuska 2003), but in view of the characteristics of other ilarviruses, it is possible that ApMV could be dispersed by pollen."

I feel that the appearance of any reference (unless being attacked) in a reviewed scientific journal means that the authors, reviewers, and editor feel that it has scientific merit for being included.

Here is a link that might be useful: link to recent rose research virus paper

This post was edited by henry_kuska on Fri, Dec 26, 14 at 10:53

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