22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I grew Blaze in a pot and it did great. You do have to have a BIG pot though. Not just for the root system but also to counter weight all that top growth so it doesn't topple over. The pot I used was about 2 1/2 X 2 1/2 feet and I had a small trellis in the pot to tie the canes to. It was in that pot for 5 years before I got it in the ground. Now that I think of it, it bloomed more in the pot than it does in the ground!
Here's Crepuscule growing in a large pot by my front door. It is rarely watered and has a lot of competition from English ivy growing in the same pot. I throw my mop water on it.
It is starting to decline some but has done fairly well for five years or so. I have a large Constance Spry plant in a pot but it rooted through the hole a long time ago. Used to have a big Lavender Lassie in a big pot. It got too big for the area it was in. It also had rooted through the hole.
You might try Jack Falker's method of using leaves to protect them. Keep in mind it's cold winds that cause the most damage. So surrounding them with a wind barrier is the best thing you can do.
Also if you lose some of the tops that's okay. You'll just prune that off in early spring. focus on the bottom 12" or so.
Here is a link that might be useful: Jack's blog post
I haven't seen any actual leaves yet but there is definitely some plump red leaf buds out there. Nothing you can really do about it. Just leave them alone and hope for the best. This freeze and thaw stuff is the real culprit that kills most roses. And the freeze is already on its way for this coming week. If the roses went into winter healthy and you gave the crowns some protection even if you lose some of the canes they should still be fine and come back next spring.
"Preliminary data showed that epsom salt application (in addition to N-P-K), on a monthly schedule, did not reduce the disease incidence but did reduce defoliation compared to plants receiving no secondary nutrients. However, the plants treated with epsom salts or CaCl2 were less vigorous and produced fewer flowers than nontreated plants or plants treated with calcium sulfate (Figure 2)."
http://www.aaes.auburn.edu/comm/pubs/highlightsonline/summer96/blackspot.htm
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"As to the claim of the effectiveness of Epsom salts to combat fungus infections in plants, no real evidence supports this. Reports done by Washington State University and other research facilities have shown that Epsom salts have no affect on apple scab or other mildews. However, many gardening enthusiasts and websites, including the National Gardening Association, say that applying Epsom salts can produce healthier plants by providing magnesium to the soil and reducing leaf loss."
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/epsom-salt-remedy-plant-fungus-89103.html
Here is a link that might be useful: link for first epson study
I gathered from Bierkreek that adding sugar to one's soil helps stimulate the growth of mychrorriza funghi (please excuse eventual spelling error). In fact, this year,I decided to try sprinkling white sugar around in my garden; NOT hundreds of pounds of it,of course;just a bit in each new rose hole,plus a couple bags sprinkled sparsely around on the soil. I can't see what harm it could do...
I have this one along with Hypnotized and Neil Diamond on order for the spring. Can't wait for some new striped roses, they are always such a surprise with every bloom! I can't find either Hypnotized or Daring Spirit on hmf just yet but I loved your shot of Neil Diamond!!
Andrea
If by "pruned to make neater" you mean "make it grow as a tight bush, like a Hybrid Tea or Floribunda" then I'd say "probably not." Noisettes will grow into spreading shrubs, much like their 'R. moschata' ancestor. You should plant yours where you can fit something which will spread up to eight feet wide. Some people grow it trained as a broad and shrubby climber, so that's another option. But trying to keep it "small, neat, and tidy" will be going against how this rose wants to grow, and will be an on-going and often losing battle. See pics of it on HelpMeFind in the link below.
As for care, simply think of it as a big flowering shrub. Throw some RoseTone or other organic fertilizer on it when it starts leafing out in Spring, maybe again after the peak of Summer heat has passed, and water it deeply when you go past a week without rain. Otherwise, the old Noisettes are pretty easy where it's not too cold for them -- and if you're in USDA zone 8b, you're right where they love to be.
Check the Antique Rose Forum for more information on this and other Noisettes.
:-)
~Christopher
Here is a link that might be useful: 'Champneys' Pink Cluster' on HelpMeFind
Hey Pinkpearls,
Champney's does great in TX. It grows big enough that it needs to be put in the ground, eventually. If you can plant it while the weather is cool, it will help it to get its roots established to survive summer heat.
Plant it in a good soil mix, in good sun, & mulch well.
I'd resist the temptation to tidy it up by pruning now. In fact, I'd not prune for 2-3 years (yes, YEARS). Young roses, especially the ogrs, often go through a gangly "teenager" stage of sloppy irregular growth. But they need every cane & leaf to feed them while growing.
My 20+ yr. old Champney's is now a nice upright vase shape of long, thick basal canes topped by flowering sprays. I only occasionally remove a cane (from ground level, every year or so) to allow room for new basals to come up & renew the plant.
It's a good looking rose & blooms almost continuously.
OK, so to answer the question "Shouldn't this be considered as evidence that PNRSV can infect roses by mechanisms other than grafting?", I say "No, because other methods of infection were not excluded, and thus this fails to disprove your null hypothesis."
:-)
~Christopher
Christopher, could you give a reference for your use of "Null hypothesis"?
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The following was stated: "Henry's science background is in Chemistry. Mine was originally Animal Science for Pre-Vet, then a recent "second time around" at college for Psychology and Physical Anthropology, with special interests in genetics, ethology, and a dash of neural and hormonal influences on behavior. So neither of us is really the one to ask about plant viruses. That person would be Dr. Malcolm Manners."
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H.Kuska comment. A Ph.D degree in Physical Chemistry is expected to prepare a scientist to investigate the physics, and chemistry involved in understanding nature. It is a very broad theoretical based major in nature understanding.
Some examples can be found in the following links:
http://degreedirectory.org/articles/Colleges_with_Physical_Chemistry_Degree_Programs_FAQs.html
"Physical chemistry seeks to understand the physical and scientific basis of molecular properties and chemical phenomena. It can be used to understand how proteins fold, how nanostructures form and why holes in the ozone layer originated"
http://degreedirectory.org/directory/category/Physical_Science/Chemistry_Sciences/Theoretical_and_Physical_Chemistry.html
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Regarding Dr. Manners knowledge and my knowledge of rose viruses. In almost any field there are more than one Ph.D. scientist that can contribute to the field.
This is illustrated in this particular situation by the citations in one of the most recent rose viruses reviewed published scientific papers.
Dr. Manners is cited for his: " Manners MM (1997) Effects of rose mosaic disease on performance of hybrid tea roses in Florida. Proc Fla State Hortic Soc 110:118��"121"
This is the context for the use of his presented paper: "Previous reports have shown that symptom expression, virus distribution and virus detection can be influenced by several factors including cultivar, changing seasons/weather and growing conditions (Manners 1997; Sala-Rejczak and Paduch-Cichal 2005; Sertkaya 2010; Wong et al. 1988)."
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I am cited for the following paper: "Kuska H (2003) Can North American rose hybridizers use pollen from virus infected roses? Rose Hybridizers Assoc Newsl 34:7��"10"
This is the context for the use of my paper: "PNRSV is known to be transmitted mechanically, by root grafting and by seed (Abdel-Salam et al. 2008; Golino et al. 2011). The virus may be transmitted by pollen in rose although this hasn’t been fully ascertained (Kuska 2003)."
AND
"Reports of pollen transmission of ApMVin rose are inconclusive (Kuska 2003), but in view of the characteristics of other ilarviruses, it is possible that ApMV could be dispersed by pollen."
I feel that the appearance of any reference (unless being attacked) in a reviewed scientific journal means that the authors, reviewers, and editor feel that it has scientific merit for being included.
Here is a link that might be useful: link to recent rose research virus paper
This post was edited by henry_kuska on Fri, Dec 26, 14 at 10:53
i live in overly sunny Las Vegas, and found that the first year, I do get the spider arms, but after the 2nd year, the plants became more upright.
Having moved to the new house and put the new garden together, I did find that the plants that made it into the ground too late in spring were more spidery. My landscaper did not finish with the irrigation system and pavers until mid May. but I still get some lovely roses, and it is almost Christmas:
I do appreciate the further information on Florentina. It is good to know that the canes are easily trainable which makes it a good candidate for my fence in full sun. I was hoping that there would be *some* fragrance as Palatine's description says "fragrant rose" - I'd even settle for it being faint, not expecting the fragrance of an old rose or even an Austin. Well, I guess I will just have to give it a try. Disease free is another desirable quality in my no-spray garden, so thank you Cynthia for your experience.
I'll let you all know down the road how it does for me!
We try to be honest about the fragrance and not promise what we don't think is present. I spend a lot of time evaluating fragrance in roses. You are right it seems there are not many fragrant climbers. I think Kordes Golden Gate has moderate spicy fragrance. Another Kordes with very good fragrance and very good cold hardiness is Laguna. There are repeated very good reports on cold hardiness in the Midwest. it is an ADR winner with really great disease resistance.
Chris