22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
You could try painting the infected areas with 3 % drugstore hydrogen peroxide. In addition to possibly actually killing whatever it is, it should help booster the plant's immune system.
Aspirin tablets placed in the ground may also help with the immune system.
http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/roses/msg0610421011109.html
Here is a link that might be useful: aspirin thread
I'm in zone 8 in East Texas so we don't have really harsh winters. We do get below freezing but not a lot and it's easy to move pots in the garage during those times it does freeze. Seril I'm glad you did post that picture! It's funny how one certain rose can capture your heart thru a picture.
Just a note to Marty's caution: It is not just Knockout roses that can get Rose Rosette Disease (RRD). Just about any rose can get it (in fact, I'd guess ALL roses can get it).
Knock Out Roses are NOT more susceptible to RRD than any other rose.
Keep an eye out and if your rose starts growing really ugly witch's broom type growth or something like that, take a pic and show it here. We can probably help you identify whether or not it is likely to be RRD. No point going into a panic over everything that can happen to a rose and assuming it is RRD. Make sure it is diagnosed correctly first. If it is RRD, then, yes--you will probably have to destroy the plant as Marty says.
I have lost about 1 rose per year to RRD for the past several years. None of the lost roses was a Knock Out.
Kate
The following was stated: "Just a note to Marty's caution: It is not just Knockout roses that can get Rose Rosette Disease (RRD). Just about any rose can get it (in fact, I'd guess ALL roses can get it).
Knock Out Roses are NOT more susceptible to RRD than any other rose. "
H.Kuska comment: The above may be correct, but it also may not be correct. Controlled research is needed. One way that it may not be correct is if a certain type of rose all have another virus. The first virus may make it easier for the rose rosette virus to overcome the immune system. This is a quote from research titled:
"Fate of artificial microRNA-mediated resistance to plant 1 viruses in mixed infections"
"However, when the plants were pre-infected with these viruses, TuMV was able to co31 infect 12-4 plants pre-infected with TRV, CaMV, and, particularly, with CMV. So, pre32 infection by another virus jeopardizes the amiRNA-mediated resistance to TuMV."
http://digital.csic.es/bitstream/10261/93508/1/Martinezetal%20Phytopathology.pdf
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Is there any evidence to suggest that this occurs with successful rose rosette infections?
Yes, there is: 1) Early on infected multiflora rose was found to also be infected by a cryptic virus (H.Kuska comment: which is transferred through the seeds).
http://www.sipav.org/main/jpp/index.php/jpp/article/view/664/451
AND
2) Recently rose rosette infected roses were reported to also be infected by Blackberry chlorotic ringspot virus (BCRV). See the following quote: "The case of Blackberry chlorotic ringspot virus (BCRV) is of particular interest because the virus has been found to be an integral part of blackberry yellow vein disease and is widespread in rose plants affected by rose rosette disease." (H.Kuska comment: BCRV is also transferred through seeds.)
http://apsjournals.apsnet.org/doi/abs/10.1094/PDIS-08-13-0866-RE
It depends on if you are trying to control their size or not. If you want to keep them smaller then dead heading time is a good time to prune back deep. I've seen KOs cut in half with hedge clippers by mow and blow guys and they bounced right back and re-bloomed beautifully.
We have rose midge in Illinois.The second year was the worst for me. Not a bloom in sight very depressing indeed. That was the last time I used insecticides in my garden. Apparently the good guys were able to establish them selves as damage now days is very limited. May be my imagination but it seems after spider mites have a good year rose midge infection is way down for a while. I did try every thing ever suggested here to get rid of them. In the end the only thing that worked for me was to let mother nature take care of it. She's done a pretty good job. Best of luck too you.
As always, Kim generously shares expert advice. Just to say GC does well here & wondering what else may be going on in your garden. You don't mention the amount of sun your GC receives - could lack of sun exposure be a factor in GC's health & be keeping that area more damp? Do you have a mulch there holding too much water itself? How do you provide watering - sprinklers, drip, by hand, on what schedule & time of day or evening? If mechanically, could there be a malfunction? Any dips in the lawn or bed, gutters or downspouts slanting more moisture towards the rose? Is the area getting too much water? Is the rose itself getting too much or not enough? Any underplantings holding & releasing moisture? Any of these & more could impact the individual situation & immune resistance of your rose negatively, attracting bugs & disease.
Thinking over any contributing factors may help you rearrange & solve your puzzle. You might try a diluted seaweed spray foliar & root feeding to help boost CG's health. Consider temporarily removing any mulch & later replacing it with fresh, as it may be saturated with spores.
This garden is likely as humid as yours - seldom under 75% & usually closer to 95% in Summer, with frequent rainstorms. The CG here grows in a mixed perennial bed in an ESE exposure 8' out from the front porch. Gets 7-8 hours of sun from midmorning to late afternoon, in clay-based loam amended with gypsum & compost years ago & topped yearly with compost in Spring & oak leaf mulch in Fall. Compost doesn't touch the stems & mulch stops 8-10" inches from them until dormant in cold. Believe these conditions contribute to GC's good health these last 9 years with no antifungal treatments.
Troubleshooting is usually tough but necessary. Was your rose doing better till recently? If so, what's changed? Small changes often have big impacts. Put on your detective hat...
This post was edited by vasue on Fri, Jul 11, 14 at 12:59
Thanks for such thoughtful responses. This is the second year in the ground for GC and last summer it was spotty and disease prone as well. Glad someone pointed out that another rose might have the same problems in this spot, I wouldn't toss the rose before trying it in a different spot but I'd hate to keep rotating roses and seeing no improvement. I made some little changes and am hoping it starts to do better.
Though the spot gets a generous amount of sun (7-8 hrs) I think there were some factors making it more damp than the beds my other roses are in. The grass along the edge was very close and in some places directly underneath the canes. The pergola has a wisteria growing over the top putting the rose, though itself in full sun, on the edge of damp shade. I edged the new, wider bed with stone and pea gravel. We'll see!
Thank you! These are all beautiful! I'm kinda nervous so I think I'll research them all and see which one is best for me. I'm not to picky about scent or color. I think most all roses are beautiful. I'd like to go with the least demanding, since I'm new to roses. I'm also new to this forum so it's exciting to see responses, I didn't think I'd get any!
I'm not in Florida, but I think perhaps that most (if not all) of the Tea-Noisettes* would do well there. If you have root knot nematodes in your soil, look for them (and any other rose) grafted onto 'Fortuniana'.
*Note that many nurseries don't have the category of Tea-Noisette, and you'll find these roses under either Noisette or Climbing Tea. If you do an advanced search on HelpMeFind for Tea-Noisette, you'll find the roses that are put into this unofficial category. You can also take a look at Rogue Valley Roses' inventory of Tea-Noisettes to give you an idea.
:-)
~Christopher
Here is a link that might be useful: Tea-Noisettes at Rogue Valley Roses
I found this rose a few weeks ago at earl may and just had to have it. I am just in love with it already! I can't wait for mine to bloom. (there were several at the nursery with blooms but I didn't buy one with any)
Thanks for sharing your picture! It's just lovely. I am also looking forward to seeing how this overwinters!!
I know I cringe at some of the advice I read on forums. Some is based so much on "yesterday I did this and today I have this result and I googled it and found a study based on a different plant-condition-area and they agree" But what I have found is we tend to over think and over worry about plants, I know I do. They seem to do better if we look at the big picture and give them some time.
Things we did yesterday are highly unlikely to make any difference the next day (other than watering a dried out plant) I also worry that for some one reading some of that type of advice that it makes growing roses sound hard and challenging when that is really not the case most of the time.
Just my thoughts...off to the garden I go (and likely not to do anything other than enjoy my roses and not worry about what they are missing)
This post was edited by Kippy-the-Hippy on Thu, Jul 10, 14 at 13:07
Thanks for all the input folks. I also checked with our local soils testing lab. They said calcium is not usually a problem in our area. So I have 20 lbs. that I will either give away or use limitedly on the garden and yard areas until it is gone. That way it will not overload the soils causing any soils salts problems and be a bit beneficial.
That rose labeled "Heirloom" looks right to me. I don't mean to be rude, but whoever writes the descriptions of rose smells makes as much sense to me as the people who write wine flavor descriptions. I never taste a "hint of chocolate with coffee undertones" in wine, and with rose smells, my nose can't get beyond basics like "smells pretty." (I can tell basic differences, but not by much.) So if your bud up there smells pretty, I'm guessing it's Heirloom. Enjoy! It's a great rose.
The white bud I think could also be Honor.
I started out with roses from the $5 sale bin at Orchard Supply Hardware. I don't buy from big box stores now because I'm worried about what they spray, and I'm trying to make a haven for bees and other insects in the middle of Los Angeles (I am succeeding wildly with aphids and Japanese beetles. Oh, and thrips!). But I still have those old $5 ones, and many of them are, simply, classics I treasure: Peace, Queen Elizabeth, Mr. Lincoln, Tiffany, Gemini, Blue Girl, Icebergs. Land prices are so high in Los Angeles, almost all the old nurseries which were here 10 years ago are, simply, gone, with older owners retiring and selling out the land the developer makes into something else.
Dr. Pekemom, if you're not familiar with it, hightail it out to Agoura on the 101 to Sperling Nursery. Marvelous place with some pretty great plants and service. Apparently the elderly owner passed and his adult children don't want the nursery. Per some long time employees, the place is up for sale. It's pretty much certain it will become another auto dealer. Definitely worth the visit! Kim
Here is a link that might be useful: Sperling Nursery
Eeewww! Another reason why I don't care for mulching.
I wish I didn't have to mulch, but I do. I am trying to grow ground cover over a lot of area so I can cut down on mulching. But usually the mulch (even with the stinky fungus) is great for the soil.