22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Spraying them with a fungicide on a regular basis is the best way to eliminate BS. However, many of us have decided that we don't wish to use those harsh and dangerous chemicals in our gardens anymore so we've begun to use less hazardous methods. Removing the spotted leaves is one of those. But be careful with that too. If a leaf is still green it is still capable of producing food for the plant. And that plant will need energy to produce new leaves. I only remove the already yellowing leaves as those will no longer supply energy anyway.
Removing the leaves will not eliminate the BS. It just slows it down a bit. The spores for it are already out there everywhere. They are in the plants, in the soil and in the air and only need the right weather conditions to become active and spread through your roses. They particularly like cool wet nights which is why they tell you not to water late in the day. it doesn't give the plant enough time to dry off before it cools down and gets dark. That can't always be avoided though. It's pretty much a never ending battle and unless you want to spray constantly you really need to adjust your expectations some and learn to live with some spots. It doesn't make the blooms any less beautiful!
Not always. Some do the "float" or "sink" test and prefer planting the sinkers, feeling they have larger, heavier embryos inside. Sometimes they float due to trapped air bubbles. Sometimes they float because they are empty. If you have too many seeds to comfortably handle, it may be a convenient way to reduce the load. I don't do the sink test. If I have way too many of a particular cross, I may only plant the larger, plumper ones. If it's from a particularly intriguing or difficult cross, I'll likely plant every one of them. It's up to you and how you want to handle them. Try it, you may be surprised..or not. It's all part of the discovery. Good luck and have fun! Kim
The Antique Rose Emporium sells a 2 gallon sized plant for $19, and it is listed as being in stock on their website.
Palatine sells it grafted onto multiflora if you prefer it grafted.
HMFRoses lists quite a few sources for it. If you click on the "view all nurseries selling this rose" tab at the bottom of the "Buy From" page, you will be able to see all the sources.
Here is a link that might be useful: sources for Dortmund
Sounds good to me. Why don't you alternate Munstead Wood (dark purple/burgundy red) and Princess Anne (pink) or Boscobel (apricot pink)--they are all quite good on bs resistance and good on rebloom. And all about 3 x 2.
If you can hold out for an extra year, Austin's new Olivia Rose Austin may be available in America. She is a fantastic beauty. You can see her on the English David Austin site.
kate
I deeply sympathize but after gardening for 20 years in my present garden I am getting more thickskinned. I give a rose at least 4 years (I live in Sweden where the climate is harsh), often much more. But I have started culling non-performers and roses I don't much like sooner now. I still have enough space for roses but I am beginning to want other plants, too, more ornamental trees and shrubs, evergreens and large perennials. I hang on longest to roses from friends, it feels like a betrayal to get rid of them, however bad the plants. This New Dawn, an old clone, promises to be a keeper though. I got it and the little white rose in the background (a foundling, may be La Neige) from a friend.
It depends on the rose and the reason I wants it gone for me. If the plant is marked for removal due to excessive disease and such, then I just compost it because I can't see heaving a bad plant onto other people. Especially considering that I don't have any experienced rose folk around to give them to. Others that are good plants, but I want to remove them just to have space for something else, usually end up sitting around so long that I forget why I wanted to get rid of it and it stays. I'm lazy like that. If I happen to actually dig the plant up, I almost always pot it up...where it sits forever till I find a new place for it. :)
Some roses described as climbers are semi-shrubby with stiff, relatively upright canes. It is easier to bushify these types. Others make very long shoots that are nowhere near self-supporting.
To make a stand-up shrub, I let the new basal canes bloom out and then cut them back to 3-4 feet. The cane then produces 2 or 3 laterals that are cut back to a self-supporting length and then branch again. Every time I prune a lateral, I leave several bud sites to encourage branching. Once you get a lot of branches, the plant will produce fewer long basal canes.
The other option is to let it form a fountain shape as boncrow describes. Here you may need to allow for 10-12' width.
This post was edited by michaelg on Fri, Nov 21, 14 at 12:22
with the ten of thousands of roses available....
i would wonder why you would need to buy and try to make a climber ... into a bush ... other than for the sake of learning how to prune ..... you may come to truly understand the vigor of some of these climbers ...
sure.. anything can be pruned into whatever shape and form the pruner wants it to be.. think bonsai for the extreme ... pruning never killed anything ... itself ...
but i would step back... and try to find one.. that grows in the shape and form i wanted... rather than sign myself up for a lifetime of pruning ...
on the other hand .... i truly do understand.. that often.. you gotta have .... what you want ...
ken
Please wait until March or you'll worry yourself to death all winter over that rose. If it were bareroot (dormant) you could certainly plant it now but its awfully late in the season to plant a potted rose. The best solution IMHO is to schlep it outside during warm spells and keep it in the basement during Jan, Feb and especially cold spells in Dec & March. Mad Gallica is a very experienced cold zone gardener (she over winters all sorts of things in her basement including heirloom peppers) so take her advice regarding light set ups. I've been buying special fluorescent tubes for years and apparently I don't really need them LOL.
^^ I have Compassion climbing rose and I was sure that was it! Never noticed that.
For sure my favorite are swirled cup-shaped roses like Eden rose.
From http://i-lostinausten.blogspot.com/2011/11/ma-vie-en-rose.html:
Bishop Darlington looks very interesting. Thanks for sharing JeriJen. I really like the informal non-fuss but relaxed look. I am beginning to realize that singles and semi-doubles give it a very relaxed feel compared to the highly formal hybrid teas.
Anna-Marie de Montravel has that spring fresh look and it would really nice at night too. I really like it. It would look good in front of a garden. I bet it would really shine under a summer moon sky. Thanks Linaria.
Thanks Sara-Ann for Tiffanny. I have seen this rose many times but never had the chance to buy one. I like this shade of pink in roses. It doesn't scream at you..lol.
I agree with you Laura, which is why I bought mine this past spring. I only saw it flower once though but it was really nice. I am crossing my finger that it doesn't die under this snow. I am thinking of getting the red eden if it is available in my area.
I had to cut a big shrub ownroot rose (Pierre Gagnaire) way back and then move it in temps like that last year. It took forever to bud out, but the canes were green. He just sat there, green, for at least a couple of months, well into warm weather. It was the weirdest thing, but I knew I didn't get a big rootball compared to his original size.
Anyway, he did great. He put out one or two new basals along with leafing out. He didn't get especially tall yet, but I'm sure he'll grow up great again.
I treated him like I would any transplanted rose while he was doing nothing. So he got normal water, etc. I felt like giving up on him, but I'm so glad I didn't!
That would be a very interesting piece of information to find out about, Lynette. Remember, it was Hortico who "introduced" so many of his earlier roses in to North America, prior to obtaining any licensing from him and selling them to the US. That is why all those varieties were sold under their breeder's code names, such as AUSpat, AUStamora, etc. Once they've been introduced, there is a finite time in which to patent them and recoup any costs through royalties. Hortico jumped ahead of him by selling them so the only way he could benefit from their sales was to trademark their names so a retailer would have to pay to use those names. The roses could be sold under any other name you wanted, without paying any royalties, but if you used the trademarked names, you owed Austin royalties. I heard stories some years ago about a very "heated" face-to-face Mr. Austin reportedly had with the head of Hortico about that very subject. It would be QUITE interesting to know the back story whether Hortico's decision not to offer the newer types had anything to do with that issue, or if they simply chose not to offer the more expensive types as Pickering and others have. Kim
Yes old Hortico did get thrashed by Austin but that wouldn't slow them down. I suspect ( but do not know) that they may be budding Austins when they get them from other nurseries. The father (Jan) carried roses because he loved them and had many types, plus the unusual. I must be more appreciative of that fact. My garden had many of the tried and true from Europe and Denmark. Now that he has allowed his two sons to take over management, they seem to be culling many of the shrub type roses and just having the hybrid teas and those that do best in colder climates. Probably a good decision business wise. This year I placed a large order and it still feels like one is dealing with the three stooges. Very disorganized and confused. I know the rose business is dying so I am trying to send as much good budwood to Palatine or if Pickering opens again, to them also. But again with Pickering, it was the fathers love of roses, not his sons.
You're going to make thousands of spider mites and powdery mildew spores very happy in their new conservatory.
You may have to read-up on biological controls.....
:-)
~Christopher
Here is a link that might be useful: Predator Mites of Spider Mites in Greenhouses