22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

I heard the Rose Show was a little "rinky dink". A lot of exhibitors were not really to happy with the way thing came down.

Hi Henry, several members of my Rose Society were at the meeting. Here is a report from our newsletter about the RRD Roundtable:

Then we heard a great panel discussion on Rose Rosette Disease, including Drs. Mark Windham, Byrnes, Ong, and Tzanetakis, all of whom have been studying RRD. The RRD virus has been identified, and research recently has fulfilled all three of KochâÂÂs postulates to prove that it is the causative agent. The disease has been observed in the US since the 1930s. ItâÂÂs transmitted from bush to bush by the âÂÂrose leaf curlâ eriophyid mite. It moves through the plant slowly at first, from cell to cell, but then rapidly moves through the plant to the roots and to other branches. So what else did we learn? The disease may exist in plants and plant parts that arenâÂÂt showing symptoms, so if we have any suspicion of RRD we should act quickly to remove the entire plant from our gardens. After removal of an infected plant (and ALL its roots), we can safely replant in that space in a couple of weeks, since the mite doesnâÂÂt seem to survive in the ground. Early studies have been inconclusive about controlling the mite with common miticides, though research continues. Different herbicides (Round-Up vs 2,4d) may produce different symptoms on roses, but unless those symptoms appear in several plants/places, damage is probably not due to herbicide drift. Meanwhile, we may also see different symptoms of RRD on different cultivars, and different symptoms when there are multiple viruses infecting a plant. We donâÂÂt need to worry about transmitting the virus from plant to plant with pruners (unlike rose mosaic). We learned that Lysol is inadequate as a disinfectant for our pruners �" the professionals recommend non-fat milk!

In a place that warm, they won't go dormant. If you can arrange a light setup - simple hanging fluorescents - it should work quite well.

if they are still outside, they are in the process of going dormant NOW. Roses in any pots usually do not do well outside because the root system is not insulated by the surrounding earth. I overwinter many dormant potted and tree roses in my garage, but it is not fully heated because I do not open the vents. At 35-40 degress, they have 99% survival rate. Can you open a window or something to keep it a smidge cooler. Dormancy also requires decreasing light. Try to mimic mother nature.
And i would not judge anything by last winter.
best luck and keep us posted

Kippy, you will love it. They opened another section of the Chinese garden so now you can go all around the little lake and see the pagodas and bridges from other views. My roses are still going so I would guess theirs are too. Pasadena got spared from the nasty wind.

There is a very good bakery called Fredericos on the East side of Allen Ave. ( the street that leads into the Huntington's main gate) If you are using that street to reach the 210, you will pass right by it. It's on the right side on the corner as you come out of the neighborhoods .

I went to the open house at Sherman Gardens today

This is Spice Twice

Below is a link to a tour of the Sherman today

Here is a link that might be useful: Today at the Sherman

Can't wait to see photos of them!

Oh Boy. I have both of those roses and they are both in my top 5 most floriferous, healthy and beautiful roses. Parade gets HUGE blooms in the fall that quarter and Ivor's (so glad they renamed it Flamenco) is never ever without many many blooms. Healthy as a horse and vigorous. Give Flamenco lots of room and stand back. You got some good ones. The photo is Parade, and she is still covered in buds and blooms.
Susan

Thanks, everybody! I hope to hear more ideas,and will have to go onto HMF and look up the roses mentioned...

I think the Italian light might support more vivid contrasts so would consider pairing that grey/purple with euphorbia characias. The glaucous and sculptural euphorbia leaves, and the acid green bracts would do a sterling job of hiding RiB's gaunt and bare legs (it is a tall, thrusting rose) and contrasting really well. You might also have a bit of fun with the annual thunbergias - the plain orange and black thunbergia alata twines rather nicely about RiB. Although, I sort of recall you saying any colour but orange.....was that you?
Bronze fennel, at all stages of growth, will also melt and soften the angularity of this rose while framing the remarkable blooms - a wonderful colour which allows us to compromise about it's awkward coltishness....maybe add some of the white umbellifers to froth around - dip a toe in by sowing some ammi or orlaya - still time to do this now, sowing directly in the soil, for fat blossom next year which will flower at the same time as RiB's first flush. They do seed about but are easily spotted and hoed out.
For a complementary rose, look no further than Cowlishaw's earlier foray into 'blue' roses with the delicately lovely Odyssey. Not always easy to find (C.K.Jones in the UK) but from the same stable as RiB but with a smaller habit and good all-round health - a soft lilac not too far from Legrice's experiments with cool mauve roses...and the same generous stamens. Or, I have been hovering over Visser's 'Minerva' - a darker 'Blue for You' (now there's a thought?). I grew a neat annual nicotiana, 'Langsdorfii a couple of years ago....and that would be another greenish tubular flower (looks better than it sounds) to grow with RiB. You could also do that Hidcote thing of red and purple.....an audacious scarlet such as Home Run, geums, potentillas.......

I have 'Tangerine Streams'. It gets rust. It is nearly a dead-ringer for 'Pure Poetry', which doesn't rust nearly as much. In that color range I'm really liking 'Easy Does It' these days

Lee asked about Prospero's growth habit.

It is a slow-growing, very upright quite twiggy rose which does not take kindly to "normal" pruning. In fact, it is best treated like a China, and pruned minimally. Removal of dead growth is about all it needs.

It does not arch nor spread. After several years, our budded plants are about 4-ft. tall.

Jeri

I was trying to find it grafted a couple of years ago and had no luck. At that time, Roses Unlimited had it own root. Their website still lists it , but you have to call or email them for actual stock status of their roses. I've ordered OGR/antique roses from RU and been very pleased with their roses and service. I normally prefer to get my modern roses grafted, so haven't ordered any of those from them. I've never seen anything but positive comments posted about RU, though.

I purchased a couple last year from Roses Unlimited. They are an awesome place to buy from. You can call or email them and they will answer you back quickly. They are my most favorite online rose nursery. Nice nice folks there. You will LOVE Heaven on Earth. I would suggest buying 2. Or 3. Mine is the fastest repeater. Love love love it!! Judy

That looks like it should be a cover for a ballet program or on a poster outside the theater. Glad you got to see it in person.

They're very pretty-ice roses! What a great idea! Thanks for sharing. :-)

Wow, so many options :) Thank you all!

Poor katydid. I love to hear them at night. I would give her a stern talking-to . . . and then resume drowning as many Japanese Beetles as possible. :-)

Here is a link to a full paper. Of interest is the picture of a diseased rose and the finding that this virus is whitefly transmitted.

" Our results showed that the virus was transmitted by whiteflies in a persistent manner and caused systemic leaf curling and stunting on host plants (Table 1)."

http://link.springer.com/content/pdf/10.1007%2Fs13314-014-0147-9.pdf

Here is a link that might be useful: link for above

From our county which is a major producer of tomatoes, there used to be no problems with white flies. Winter got 'em.

Then farmers started extending their tomato season (and getting more $$$ for the out of season vine ripened tomatoes) by growing their earliest tomatoes in poly houses, and along with the $$$ came some major white fly problems.

Fortunately the tomato growin' is about twenty to thirty miles down wind of my roses.

Seil and KR - I'm sure I've had late growth like this, I've never noticed it to this extent before though. I recall a few times having a few blooms in late November and maybe early December. Kentucky Rose - Your frosty rose pictures were gorgeous. I think Saturday morning it got down to about 28. At least for the next week we're supposed to have highs in the 60's and lows probably in the mid 40's. We're supposed to have rain Monday evening into Tuesday. I have a few large buds that haven't opened yet, not many though. Souvenir de la Malmaison has several that I think will open in a few days. I can't wait to see what they look like this time of year.

I think roses continue to grow at 45 degrees and above...
Once temps drops below 45 degrees and are constant things will slow way down...

This post was edited by jim1961 on Sun, Nov 2, 14 at 20:26

The canes still look green. Try potting it up and see if it recovers. You'll need to keep it moist but not soggy and don't fertilize it until you see new leaves forming. In your cold zone it may not get any new growth now until next spring. Keep it very well protected for winter and see what happens.

The white stuff looks like some sort of insect infestation causing a variety bark scale, which can be scrubbed off, and the winter should take care of it shortly. I'm new to roses, but I've seen it on other shrubs like crape myrtles and azaleas.

I have plenty of roses with brown edges, Belinda's Dream being one of the worst affected, but most of them have it to some degree. The only answer is rain, and more rain.

Ingrid

You planted roses in the hottest part of the year if you planted them only 3 months ago. Three months ago was July 30th. They look toasted and no wonder. They are struggling to get going. They'll look better and grow better if we get some winter rains. The cooler weather will improve their looks greatly and you should see significant improvement by next April. That would be the time to start fertilizing.

Mulch. It keeps the soil cool, helps keep the soil moist, and as it breaks down adds nutrients to the soil.