22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
They ship to California? Not all nurseries do, because of the treatment requirements. At such reasonable prices, it's worth taking a risk. Most of their roses seem pretty generic though, like "red rose", "white rose" or "almost black". For roses, I'll stick with Burlington, Rogue Valley, Heirloom, etc. Joanne, maybe you could give your wrong rose to a friend or trade it in exchange for something they have.
There are several mail order companies served by that same nursery. Some are Direct Gardening, Exciting Gardens, 4SeasonNurseries and Farmer Seed & Nursery. They all have the same crappy customer service insisting that you send back your receipt and write a letter to get a refund or replacement. And then in many cases the plants they send you are not true to name. I have to admit, even knowing all that, it was difficult for me to skip buying my climbing roses from them for $5.99 each and instead to buy them from the better nurseries like High Country/Heirloom/Roses Unlimited/Sooner for over $20 more each.
I've sworn off all those nurseries that are supplied from the same place as Direct Gardening because of (1) horrible customer service (2) horrible product quality, often the bare roots they sell RRV, RMV and are rejects (or you can call them "seconds") (3) no guarantee that what you will receive is actually what you ordered. The best example I have on item (3) is, last year I purchased 3 ground cover roses from them that all turned out to be New Dawns!
It's no longer mine. I gave mine away when it overtook four other roses. My friend sat the pot on the side of the house. Her daughter started complaining about the monster outside her window. after a few years I went to visit and the KO was the monster. It was at least 8 ft tall and bigger around. I've never seen a rose that big. the pot was still sitting on the ground and was busted, the base of the rose was as big around as my leg!
As others say, it depends on conditions. I grow two red double KOs--one in the backyard in all day sun and the other in the front yard in mostly shade, although some of it might be described as "high shade" or "bright shade." That one also gets several hours of early morning sun.
I was surprised to discover that the one in lots of shade is nearly twice as large as the one grown in all day sun (and in Kansas, that afternoon sun in July and August can be a killer sun!). The larger one is maybe 6-7 ft tall and 4-5 ft wide--never really pruned. It also doesn't get watered as much as the backyard one. Not surprisingly, it isn't as bloomiferous as the backyard one either, although it is much bigger.
The backyard one--in full day sun--is not much of a grower--maybe 3.5-4 ft tall and 3 ft wide. It is usually lightly pruned every spring--seems to suffer from winter dieback more than the one out front. But as I mentioned above, it is much more bloomiferous than the one in front.
Hope that helps.
Kate
I am using milky spore done with a spreader because I have skunks digging holes in my lawn and I was told by Agway that that means I have grubs. I do also have brown spots. I don't see many beetles however ?? This fall will be the 4th time we've done an application with a drop spreader and I can see that I am a little late for most active feeding time. But I also see it can really take time in a cool (NH) climate. But is it odd that I don't see beetles during the summer if I have grubs? My garden is hardy perennials - only a couple of very hardy roses. Shall I do yet another application next spring and if so, what month? Also - can I now seed all these brown spots by getting up the dead grass and putting a little loam down and using a contractor's mix grass seed which is supposed to grown anywhere? I tried doing this with regular grass seed earlier this summer but I think I wasn't quite vigilant about watering. The spots where I cleared up to seed are now being taken over by violets and other weeds, to top things off! I don't need a perfect lawn but this is kind of a mess. I realize this is a couple of "help" points in one post! Thanks for all advice.
Deborah
The moss traps moisture, debris, dirt, insects and disease spores. I'm not sure if it can actually feed from a rose, but if sufficiently dense, it can shade out new growth like weedy ground covers can and it can help to trap the moisture around the canes and foliage which can make the conditions more favorable to insects and diseases.
You should probably check whether you have a cane borer in your area. We have the Pacific Flat Headed Apple Borer here in the West. You can see other sites about ithere , here and here. It attacks virtually anything and is attracted to sun burned wood. It lays its eggs around the scalded/burned area. The maggots hatch and burrow themselves under the bark where they eat the cambium layer, the circulatory system of the plant. They work their way downward, toward the bud union or roots. Once they hit that level and work their way around the cane or plant, the only remaining living part is the root system. It's entirely possible your standard damage is due to this type of issue, combined with the sun scald.
If the bark is split and black, try prying into it with a knife. If you find dried powdery tissue resembling cocoa powder, it's the "frash" or excrement of the borer maggots and used to be living circulatory system, cambium layer. Once the cambium is dead, for whatever reason (freezing, burning, physical damage from borers, girdling, bending, breaking, etc.) the tissue above it is doomed to die. Intense, direct sun shining on a point on the cane can cook the cambium layer under the bark, attracting the borers to do their jobs, or simply killing the tissue above it by starving it for sap. Humidity has nothing to do with it. In my old Newhall garden, the humidity was often single digit and the Flat Head borers were legion. The best defense against them is to keep a good foliage cover on the plants to prevent too extreme exposure to the direct sun. For standards, using the trunk protections used by orchardists for the trunks of their trees can help. White wash the trunks or wrap them in protective coverings to shield them from the direct sun. For the heads, just maintain as good a foliage cover as possible.
That's it - I'm done - my wish list /order list for this year is done! I am not (NOT) going to make anymore changes - absolutely NOT! (lol) I narrowed it down to 33 which includes 2 replacements for wrong deliveries. I put the order in for 20 today for delivery beginning of November. Think I am going to start preparing the planting holes - loosen up and get rid of all the big stones - will definitely make planting easier when they arrive.
Sharlene
It's not just the cold that causes this. Extreme heat and drought while the rose buds are forming can cause it too. I never have freezing temps or cold temps of any kind really, and my roses develope these all the time. Some roses are more prone than others (elegant fairy tale for example gets them very often). I just got one on my Eden rose and temps have been ranging from the low 90s to the mid-low 80's so not even a tad bit cold.
I've been a gardener or around gardens all my life, so it was inevitable I'd grow at least something when I got space of my own. My father grew up on a farm and we always had an extensive vegetable garden in the back as well as fruit trees, and he coached me patiently on techniques in growing those plants (my brother never took to it). My mom planted annuals and other flowers around the yard, and for a short while had some body bag roses that she tried to grow in one patch, but as we've all seen from many of these body bags, they didn't survive long (getting mowed over by my father by mistake probably didn't help). So like most of the world, I grew up with the notion that roses were fussy and not much worth bothering with.
When we bought our first house, I was determined to plant the entire front lawn in flowers and blooming trees, and the nursery recommended some shrub roses as landscaping. I didn't distinguish them much from any of the other shrubs or trees except to note that roses weren't that hard to grow after all. Champlain became my "gateway drug" rose because of this.
When we bought our current house, I was thoroughly hooked on perennials and bulbs and selected a house at least half because of the generous sized yard (with NO Virginia Creeper, curse the stuff!). I planted a Champlain of course, but didn't think much about roses for the first year. Then I got to looking at the main back garden and thinking that it needed more height. Hmmm, roses are bushes, they have height. Enter a local nursery with very reasonably priced HTs and my introduction to David Austin roses as well. Once I appreciated the diversity and still relative ease of most roses, I was truly hooked. Not that I don't love my perennials and bulbs as well, but they don't really take much of my thought any more (and I don't hang out on those GW forums - they're usually easy enough there's not much to talk about). Always plenty to talk about with roses, and the nicest people to boot!
Cynthia
When I was small, I used to visit my favorite aunt wuth a huge rose garden full of only 1 type of red rose . As it bloomed my aunt would collect roses and made rose syrup out of them and then give a big bottle of rosé syrup to my mom. That used be the only summer drink I loved . That's how it started for me. My mom is a gardener too but not for roses. She is into veggies a lot.
I hope Meilland send this rose to us in Australia as I think it would be as popular as the original Pierre de Ronsard/ Eden Rose. I told my daughter in Japan that it may be released there and she is very excited, as she loved PdR in my garden and now has 3 of her own.
Melodye
Moonstone
Touch of Class
Pretty Jessica
Mohana
Yes water and 2" fresh compost top dressing would help .
Thank you everyone for the encouragement and advice. I will give an update later. Have a great day.