22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Bart. can you get Rhapsody in Blue there? It isn't a "bush", but wants to be a semi climber. Here, it halts flowering in high heat (non issue there), otherwise repeating regularly. Great scent and DEEP mauve (violet tones). I initially chose Blue for You because of the "dove gray" tones it was capable of and its continued performance even when triple digits hit; its bush habit as opposed to climbing and its seeming (so far continuing!) freedom from black spot where Rhapsody is supposedly less resistant. However, who knows what it will do with your brands of the fungi? Jiminshermanoaks found it stopped flowering for him when the worst of the heat hit, but after a few years, it seemed to want to continue, so I guess I have to give it a try. Check it out. It might solve your problem. Kim
Here is a link that might be useful: Rhapsody in Blue
Kim, I already do have RinB. It's maybe in it's 3rd year,repeating nicely (but the weather has been quite clement so far; only one week of loathsome heat, and we even got...RAIN!!!!!!!!). For some reason, I don't like it as much as I think I should; a certain lack of delicacy in overall colour effect? not sure,but it doesn't make me almost "swoon" with delight the way Purple Skyliner does,or General Stefanik (too bad that's a once-bloomer. Other favourites: Excellenz Von Schubert, Raymond Privat...I'm trying Lavender Friendship, too, but plants too young still for me to have an opinion.Also, this Rosengarten Zweibrucken looks like a winner,colour-wise at least,but again, plants too young for me to form a real opinion. Instead, I think Perennial Blue may end up as a candidate for The Shovel. Healthy and vigorous, but the flowers lasted so briefly and were fried and ugly-ish; kind of stunted even...and the temperatures were basically pretty moderate here, by recent standards.
There are still so many on my wish list,especially if you start counting the once-bloomers... bart
It's been in the low to high eighties which is pleasant in the shade but in the sun after a few minutes it feels like 105. I can only garden in the evenings and then there's never enough daylight to do much except watering. No rain of course, and the drought conditions make for a blah garden. Wish we could siphon off water from the places that have more than they want or need!
Ingrid
It has been in the high 80's here by the Great Lakes, too hot! The air is like burning, feel like melting as soon as you step outside, riding scooter is no longer cool, zooming under the burning sun....... I want the ice-age back today. :-) Love the weather in the 70's. Gardening at night, it should be in the 60's under the moonlight.
It sounds to me more like winter damage. The canes are healthy enough to leaf out, but not healthy enough to produce healthy leaves and flowers. The remedy is pretty much the same though. Prune it out. However, the description doesn't match either or the two common rootstocks.
Pictures would help us come to a definitely conclusion.
It the non-flowering canes are rootstock, they would have grown from underground this season and would still be growing vigorously without setting flower buds. You would probably see differences in the leaves apart from size and color--different shape or number of leaflets, different degree of gloss. In this case do as Seil said.
If they are winter-damaged canes of the (original) scion variety, they would be old canes from last year that are not supporting good growth this season. Leaves could be paler, smaller and bunchier than normal. The canes would produce short stems that go blind (stop growing without setting a flower bud). In this case, just prune the canes to the ground as Mad Gallica said.
Yeah, my Mr Lincoln is the largest HT on my place and was a throwaway rose from KMart several years ago. I paid $1.25 for him. I really like how he forms and how he blooms.
Last year when everything else really took a hit from lack of sun he was still over 6 foot tall. AND he's in a POT of all things.....
I have an own root Mister Lincoln for 3 years and it has me bored to tears...
After our hard winter I took it out of the ground and transplanted into a large pot. It hasn't done much this year yet. Still waiting for its first two buds to bloom this year... YAWN!
Yours looks good though! Nice looking blooms etc...
Is yours own root or grafted?
This post was edited by jim1961 on Sat, Jun 28, 14 at 12:17
Remember this; As long as the canes are green, it's not dead. Most David Austin roses slow down to a crawl when it is extremely hot. Somehow give it shade from noon on. Keep it moist but not soaked. Don't feed it until next spring. Right now it just wants to grow a good root system. 1st year sleep, 2nd year creep, 3rd year leap. You'll see a difference next year and the 3rd year it should go crazy.
CMartien: What a beautiful rose and tribute to your mother. There is no information about the hybridizer on the description page of HMF on this rose. I will add it to the comments section and hopefully contact the administration so they can add it to the main description page.
Bonnie
Here is a link that might be useful: Peggy M on HMF
This post was edited by jasminerose4u on Sat, Jun 28, 14 at 2:55
We would need a sharp closeup of a typical spot to say for sure (blackspot vs other fungal disease), but basically I agree with what Kate said. The yellow veins are a probable virus symptom.
If it doesn't rain for a couple of hours, a fungicide like Bayer tebuconazole will be OK. It is absorbed into the leaf.
The following was stated: " Most of us find that the symptoms (gold marks on leaves) only show up occasionally in the spring. Other than that, the rose seems to suffer no problems as a result of the RMV. (There are a few posters who take a different approach to the subject, however.) "
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H.Kuska comment: PNRSV (apparently the most common rose virus found in the U.S.) is a temperature sensitive virus. At high temperatures the roses' immune system is effective in controlling the virus, at milder temperatures a controlled published scientific study (2007) reported that: "The effect of infection with Prunus necrotic ringspot virus (PNRSV) on growth, flower production and quality of three field-grown rose cultivars: Ingrid Bergman', 'Mr Lincoln' and Queen Elizabeth' was assessed in 2005 and 2006. One and two years after inoculation fresh and dry weight of flowers, diameter of flowers, diameter of shoots, length of shoots, number of shoots, number of flowers and number of flower petals decreased significantly."
This conclusion was consistent with earlier mild climate controlled scientific studies.
Will PNRSV affect the roses in your climate? Unfortunately Zone numbers cannot answer this question. Zone numbers are mainly useful for cold, freezing information. To find high temperature information, take the nearest city of appreciable size and do a Google search of the monthly average high temperatures.
Here is a link that might be useful: summary of high temperature effect information
I know this thread is ages old, but I really need to correct some of the misinformation in here about the EZ-FLO.
The dilution theory is correct when you forget that the EZ-FLO is designed to have MORE fertilizer in the tank that can be held in suspension in the water.
Normally only a small amount of fertilizer will fully dissolve in water. As an example, potassium nitrate will normally only allow around 5lbs of fertilizer to dissolve in water before no more will dissolve. Any additional fertilizer will remain un-dissolved. As fertilizer solution is drawn out of the tank and new water enters the fertilizer will continue to dissolve up to the maximum capacity that can be suspended in water. Mixing with water is then done by adjusting the speed selector in the cap of the EZ-FLO system.
Dilution does not occur until all available fertilizer has been dissolved in water. Even then fertilizer tends to be heavier than water and will gradually sink to the bottom of the tank. This is why the water supply and fertilizer tubes are at the bottom of the tank.
The actual dilution of solution does not occur very much until the end of the tank. Most people are not used to dumping large amounts of fertilizer in a small tank. I feed around 1/2 acre of squash, pumpkins, watermelon and muskmelon using the 3 gallon version. I routinely dump 25lbs of 10-0-10 Calcium Nitrate and 10-15lbs of 13.75-0-45 Potassium Nitrate in the injector depending on the stage of growth.
This is pushed out thru around 2400ft of drip tube that is placed subsurface next to the plants in the rows. I have had fantastic results and I routinely use 2/3 less fertilizer than if I had conventionally incorporated and side dressed. Cost is only marginally lower due to the need to buy greenhouse grade water soluble fertilizer. Champion and Peters are two good brands. Check your local hort supply store. 50lbs of Potassium Nitrate can most likely be had for $17-$20. Peters 20-20-20 all purpose in 25lb bags can usually be had for around $30. Compare that to 5lbs of MG at the local big box for $10.
This year was the wettest year in my neck of Wisconsin for over 10 years. Most of the corn looks very sick due to nitrogen leaching past the roots. My melons however did very well. Since only small amounts of Nitrogen were leeched during any one particular rain I avoided ground water contamination AND I was able to keep supplying my veggies with nutrients very close to the rates they needed for optimum production.
I know of no other cheap system that works as well as the EZ-FLO for the price. Set on the fast selection my fertilizer tank is empty after around 6.5 days or around 12,000 gallons of water. I use a bypass with a valve so I can control how much concentrate goes out. This is an optional purchase which was a must for me.
I would love to use organics but the cost makes no sense. Even the liquid fishy crap would require typically 5 times the amount of material as the chemical stuff. If the cost was only marginally more then I would use it. Organic veggies without having 400 head of cattle just is not commercially viable for the smaller grower. Maybe someday.
i recently purchased the ez flo 3/4 gallon, and intend to use it on a drip line for 1 line of trees/shrubs.There are approximately 20 trees.The line goes on via a timer for 1hour each night.Ive got the drips set between 5 and 10 gallons per tree for the hour.I have miracle gro water soluble fertilizer….My question is, how much should i put in the ez flo container?
I have always envied central Californians their proximity to Reagans and their convenience at shopping a middle man who has brought together a huge collection of interesting roses.
If we lose them, it will hurt the producers who have had a known number of sales. That's bad. Yes, I can still go to the original producers, but I want the producers to have as healthy a business as possible.
Without knowing what percentage of their business is walk in vs. mail and ship bare roots, it's impossible to guess where they might go. There are parts of the country where land prices aren't as dear; but how many such places have so many rose fanatics ready to buy roses?
No easy answers.
I'm not sure if this is 100% correct, but when I deadhead, I clip down until I see a new bud swelling at the base of a stipule. Usually, this goes along with "the first set of five leaflets" but sometimes it means further down. In other words, there isn't always a swelling bud at "the first set of five leaflets", and if not, I go down to the second or third.
:-)
~Christopher
First 5-leaflet from the TOP. However, this should not be a firm rule. With young plants, just pulling or snipping the blooms will usually produce the fastest growth--let the rose decide where it wants to grow out. New growth will soon cover the twigginess. Or for maximum neatness, cut above any leaf below the branching structure. Three vs. five doesn't matter.