22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Anne - I have not noticed that! I better go out and smell the roses. :o)
That's great I hope they do get bigger for you! I can't wait to see this rose bush once it's established. Woo! Mine is out in the open so it can really get as big as it'd like!! Sorry to hear about the bugs getting your blooms. Hopefully they hold off for you a little longer. And I sure can't wait to see your pictures!!
bbunnicula - thank you!! I have heard great things about Julia Child. I will definitely be checking out the ones you have. :o) The High Voltage blooms are a lot more of a pale yellow than I expected from photos but I love it!
Lol...wow...ok. my uncle who was an agronomist with the GA Ag Dept said leafhopper of some sort and to use spinosid. Yes they could be why my roses are dying. What we dont understand is why its just an issue in this hedge and not my other roses. At this point I dont care. Lol
I itch after rose scratches. ..and I have 15-20 little red bites...and they itch. .oh the joys of gardening!
In eastern zone 7, cercospora spot is more likely than spot anthracnose and affects a greater range of varieties. Bayer tebuconazole does not control these diseases, but mancozeb or chlorothatlonil (Daconil) may be useful. However, I just let these diseases go as they are not going to totally defoliate the roses and they don't spread much in hot weather.
We had a severe freeze in mid-April which did a lot of damage. Also the harsh winter may have done damage to the canes that you are not used to seeing.
Just be sure the roses get adequate but not excessive water and fertilizer and they will probably recover.
It is normal for some roses to suffer iron deficiency while others in similar soil do not. Give these roses some iron sufate, or whatever you prefer, every spring.
I love love love Oklahoma. And Mr. Lincoln. The only fragrant red I've ever grown that meets the requirements would be Barcelona/Francis Dubreuil. This is a bullet proof rose. Slow to grow, like a tea. But the color is gorgeous and the scent is to die for. I'm getting almost continuous bloom at this time in the season.
Susan
Snip or break off the spent blooms. I would leave a few and see if they set hips (fruit). If this variety does not set hips, then there is no need to deadhead. (Hips consume energy that should be going into growth and more blooms). The plant will bloom again in six weeks,
Wrong address for your link, Henry.
See the correct link below.
Here is a link that might be useful: TEMPERATURE EFFECTS ON VIRUS BEHAVIOR
Thanks Kim. If I cannot do this after your "budding for dummies" in depth post then surely I'm not meant to do so.
I've saved all the instructions to "my clippings".
You are a great asset and mentor to this novice and I appreciate the time you take to encourage and inspire us newbies!!!!!!
Susan
Hi Susan, you're welcome! I hope it helps. Thank you! The first, most important thing to remember is, don't let it intimidate you. If it doesn't work the first time, do it again. If the buds dry out, you didn't have cambium to cambium contact or the stocks either went dry or weren't actively growing. I'm soaking them in a basin of water for a few days prior to budding to make good and sure the sap IS flowing and that they don't dry out. There are only just a few inches of water in the basins in which they sit, so there is little chance of soil souring.
Practice with stuff you don't care about. Murphy will insure they ALL take. If you have any suckers or climbing growth you want to eliminate, practice removing buds and making cuts on those. Once you're comfortable you have some idea of what you're doing, start actually budding some things to see how many take. Now should be the perfect time in most of our areas as the plants are actively growing. With practice, you'll be amazed at how small material you can slice up and bud successfully. It honestly is NOT all that difficult. It simply requires practice and the self confidence which comes from practice and a few successes. None of us is ever going to succeed ALL of the time. Trospero admitted even he has some which thumb their noses at him. Burling has some which don't make it. If THEY can have buds fail, why can't we? So, fix yourself an iced tea, get everything together in a shady, comfortable spot and have a go at it. I think you'll enjoy yourself! Good luck! Kim
I didn't say they were "out of control". They are just getting floppier. I had some die-back in the back due to our horrible Winter in Milw., WI. Maybe that is why they are leaning more forward this season. Put a bamboo stick in the back of the Fair Bianca & tied with the biodegradeable twine.
There are some perfectly round small holes in the leaves and some in the smaller buds .. The tan areas do have a lace appearance . Is there anything I can use to deter these insects? This particular rose doesn't get bayer product and such because it's very close to many of my nectar plants and also some lady bug favorites, so I try not to spray it for insects , just disease. I have milkweeds/ yarrow/ joe pye just beyond this bed and I'm very careful not to spray near my butterfly plants.
You have to look on the underside of the affected leaves to see if they are still there. Probably not.
Most of us have rose slugs every year. Wasps and other predators usually control them. Next spring, watch for the damage and wipe the tiny worms off the underside with your thumb. If you can't keep up with that, spray the affected areas with a spinosad product, reaching the underside of the leaves with thorough coverage.
Sure, no problem. Round them off. They will just grow again.
However, it does look like the longer growth they are producing is more like the eventual mature size of the plant. If you wait they'll likely become more symmetrical on their own--- your choice.