22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
You need to give yourself permission to ignore the few you miss. They won't destroy your garden nor "lose the war for the Allies". Those are part of the "small stuff" you're not supposed to "sweat". You are the only one who is going to notice them, believe me. Permitting yourself to be bothered by the one or two you missed out of the hundreds is you giving yourself permission to be over worked and over whelmed. Try giving yourself permission to not be "perfect". Life is grand once you learn how! Kim
Carol, for me the point was having an evocative planting scheme. The emotional experience derived from the composition; not from any single plant. Honey Dijon was like the sofa sized painting that color coordinates with all your living room furniture. Perfect for the setting, but no soul. And I was hesitant to shovel prune Honey because she was so perfect -- how sad. I would have missed the experience of being swept off my feet by a rose that touches my soul.
We're spoiled brats Jim, shovel pruning roses that are good enough. It's such a waste. Why do we do this?
In our intimate relationships, do we settle for someone who is good enough . . . or do we seek head-over-heels in love?
Maybe we need the same magic in our precious personal spaces; for inspiration, for renewal, for the expression of who we are. Or maybe we just need an excuse to go plant shopping.
jannike
I found myself not taking as much attention to the ones that I didn't particularly like. Now that I am paying attention, I find that they are pleasing me so much more. I told myself that I would not have planted them, if they were not beautiful. So in long run, I am now a better rose person for it!
TF is pretty hardy, but if you had say minus 15 last winter, all the canes may have been damaged and needed to be pruned to the ground. I would cut back all the canes except the ones with good flower clusters until the inside looks healthy, or all the way. Weak growth on damaged canes will be more susceptible to disease.
TF is quite susceptible to cercospora spot disease, which makes small reddish spots with smooth margins. These can coalesce and--after some weeks--kill large areas on the leaves. In most areas, this disease does not spread much in the heat of summer.
TF is also susceptible to spider mites, which cause bronzing of the older leaves with fine stippling on the upper surface and a dirty appearance underneath.
I can't give you a full diagnosis, but these are some things to investigate.
The link below takes one to an abstract that allows one to link to Supplementary Material (1).
The Supplementary Material (1) is a WordPad document that describes the virus symptoms observed for each virused rose that they observed. It would of been nice if they included pictures. but until someone does that for all 17 known rose viruses this is probably the best information available. Also, please notice the number of roses that have more than one infection.
http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007/s13313-012-0191-x
Here is a link that might be useful: link to abstract - needed to look at supplement
Just a note to everyone. Thank you all so much for your thoughts, ideas, suggestions and knowledge. The rose in question has lots of buds on it now so after reading everything I can, I've decided to keep it as long as I'm happy with its' performance. I'm excited to see the blooms! Again, thank you to each of you who took the time to help me.
Thanks all, I'm learning a lot. What a depressing problem, though. Behind my fence my neighbor is growing roses a few feet away. I'm not sure if she'll treat hers so I worry that this will be a constant battle. Sounds like Bayer is the way to go if I don't just give up rose gardening altogether :/
Remove anything that looks dead and water, Water, WATER it. If it's lack of water that will help. If it's over fertilization the water will help flush it out. It it's the heat water will help. In any case it needs more water. And as Michael said, shade it some way during the worst heat of the day. Put a lawn chair over it if it's not too tall or make some kind of awning over it with cloth and stakes if possible.
Check around the base of the plant to make sure there isn't a handful of fertilizer touching any of the canes or shank. A "glop" of fertilizer pellets against the plant will burn the devil out of it. If there is, remove it and as much of the soil under the "glop", replacing with clean soil which isn't saturated with fertilizer, then WATER like a fiend to dissolve and flush through as much of the fertilizer as possible. All the other suggestions are great, just add this one to them to cover pretty much all the bases and good luck! Kim
If you have a New Dawn that doesn't rebloom, then you don't have New Dawn. Rather, you have the original parent, Dr. Van Fleet which is a once bloomer.
True New Dawn's rebloom very well provided they are deadheaded and usually have 3 flushes per year even here with our short summers. We get the heavy spring flush in June, another small flush in late July/early August and then another larger flush in mid September. Basically every 5-6 weeks or so.
Thanks the morden man, they are pretty when they are in bloom.....just planted Blossomtime and Awakening rose bands next to them, hopefully in 3 years I will see some re-blooms out of the same spots. Also I will try deadheading after their first bloom this year.....I might buy another New Dawn and give it a try if I can find a grafted one at any local nursery......
I see you're in Ontario, there is a Niagara Parks Botanical Garden, it has over 2400 roses, I love there!
Thanks again
1. Look in the vicinity for a worm and kill him.
2. If it is sawfly larvae or caterpillars, and a number of buds are affected, spray all the buds with spinosad (see the first post above).
I think it is too early in the season for katydids in zone 5a.
That hype is specifically because Applause contains genes not indigenous to rosa. They initially marketed it in Japan where the aesthetic appreciates manipulation of Nature. Think bonsai trees; melons and fruit grown in lucite boxes to alter their shape to cubes, etc. That aesthetic also values the gift and the honor it is meant to bestow based upon the cost of the gift. You and I may be honored and pleased by the gift of a vase of flowers from the giver's garden. That aesthetic is more likely to feel more honored knowing each stem of the rose cost the giver $35 (Applause's initial sale price in Asia). Not that the bloom is actually "blue", but it does represent many years of genetic manipulation to alter the color of the initial rose from red to the mauve color it expresses. In that light, it is presented as "the blue rose", which is how it is accepted by that aesthetic. I agree the photos of Blue Bayou does appear rather "blue" in the pastel range. Some images of Rhapsody in Blue appear quite "blue" in the darker range. For the whole organism, its health, ease of growth and ability to flower in all types of weather here, Blue for You still wins, hands down in my book. I need to get hold of Blue Bayou. I have some definite ideas for breeding with it... Kim
I've never heard of cyanidine expressing itself as blue. It is a red-to-purple plant pigment. To my knowledge the blue plant pigment is delphinidine. And that is what makes the Suntory Applause rose unique. The color being expressed is coming completely from delphinidine. Unfortunately the celluar pH isn't basic enough to fully express blue so what they got was lavender, which we already have in the mauve color class of roses.
I will get a pic this weekend. I was hoping to plant a short climber that repeat blooms so I will have color when the ND and PM are done blooming. My New Dawn looks scrawny to me and has never really turned into a monster like I have heard it can be. My PG is a very small, I received her as a cutting and put her in the ground so I don't expect her crowd anything out anytime soon and I really only want to plant something new on the side as the ND.
Thanks all. Most of the credits go to my husband who prep the flower bed for me last year. The bed was raised a foot and half and he filled it up with top soil with peat moss. I believe the top soil have some composted manure added. Last Fall he shredded dry leaves and covered the whole bed with with. We're both new at gardening. So everything is guess work for us. In Spring I gave them a little Scott's rose food. I'm thinking about trying milorganite but I'm doing some research on that right now. Do you have any suggestion for good rose food?
I do get yellow leaves, usually at the bottom. I usually pull them off and spray the plant just a little once a month.
Also, some of my roses are slowly growing and no bloom. I got some tea roses that were impacted by the harsh winter and just woke up. Also, 5 bareroots from David Austins that I acquired at the end of April. Anything I can do to speed them up?
This post was edited by Joopster on Tue, Jun 17, 14 at 9:52
I don't know if this is just coincidence or if it works. This spring when I had thrips really bad, I would spray the tops with bonide insecticide. It has the same active ingredient in Orthene. I used the full strength, 2 TBSP for 1/2 gallon every 3-6 days. I haven't noticed ANY bore holes! Coincidence? Usually, I will have bore holes some even with sealing the cane with Elmer's exterior wood glue.