22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses


1. Look in the vicinity for a worm and kill him.
2. If it is sawfly larvae or caterpillars, and a number of buds are affected, spray all the buds with spinosad (see the first post above).
I think it is too early in the season for katydids in zone 5a.

That hype is specifically because Applause contains genes not indigenous to rosa. They initially marketed it in Japan where the aesthetic appreciates manipulation of Nature. Think bonsai trees; melons and fruit grown in lucite boxes to alter their shape to cubes, etc. That aesthetic also values the gift and the honor it is meant to bestow based upon the cost of the gift. You and I may be honored and pleased by the gift of a vase of flowers from the giver's garden. That aesthetic is more likely to feel more honored knowing each stem of the rose cost the giver $35 (Applause's initial sale price in Asia). Not that the bloom is actually "blue", but it does represent many years of genetic manipulation to alter the color of the initial rose from red to the mauve color it expresses. In that light, it is presented as "the blue rose", which is how it is accepted by that aesthetic. I agree the photos of Blue Bayou does appear rather "blue" in the pastel range. Some images of Rhapsody in Blue appear quite "blue" in the darker range. For the whole organism, its health, ease of growth and ability to flower in all types of weather here, Blue for You still wins, hands down in my book. I need to get hold of Blue Bayou. I have some definite ideas for breeding with it... Kim

I've never heard of cyanidine expressing itself as blue. It is a red-to-purple plant pigment. To my knowledge the blue plant pigment is delphinidine. And that is what makes the Suntory Applause rose unique. The color being expressed is coming completely from delphinidine. Unfortunately the celluar pH isn't basic enough to fully express blue so what they got was lavender, which we already have in the mauve color class of roses.


I will get a pic this weekend. I was hoping to plant a short climber that repeat blooms so I will have color when the ND and PM are done blooming. My New Dawn looks scrawny to me and has never really turned into a monster like I have heard it can be. My PG is a very small, I received her as a cutting and put her in the ground so I don't expect her crowd anything out anytime soon and I really only want to plant something new on the side as the ND.



Thanks all. Most of the credits go to my husband who prep the flower bed for me last year. The bed was raised a foot and half and he filled it up with top soil with peat moss. I believe the top soil have some composted manure added. Last Fall he shredded dry leaves and covered the whole bed with with. We're both new at gardening. So everything is guess work for us. In Spring I gave them a little Scott's rose food. I'm thinking about trying milorganite but I'm doing some research on that right now. Do you have any suggestion for good rose food?
I do get yellow leaves, usually at the bottom. I usually pull them off and spray the plant just a little once a month.
Also, some of my roses are slowly growing and no bloom. I got some tea roses that were impacted by the harsh winter and just woke up. Also, 5 bareroots from David Austins that I acquired at the end of April. Anything I can do to speed them up?
This post was edited by Joopster on Tue, Jun 17, 14 at 9:52

Most European OGRs bloom on old wood -- even many of those which repeat. So what happens is that new canes (thick shoots from the base) will grow this year, and next year will bloom on laterals on last year's canes. After the first flush, if you cut back the laterals on last year's shoots, they'll bloom again (if the rose repeats).
Basically, they bloom on new shoots growing from last year's canes. This is the case for most of the long-caned Bourbons and Hybrid Perpetuals. Some of those with an extra dose of China or Tea will bloom on new shoots the same year, but 'Zephirine Drouhin' isn't one of those.
So if this rose is new for you, don't expect much in the way of blooms the first year -- sometimes not much the second year, either. The rose first needs to grow its layer of canes which will mature and then flowerHybrid Teas and Floribundas have heavier doeses of China-derived repeat-blooming genes, and so they will bloom on new shoots their first year (hence their being able to take hard-pruning in Spring and still flower that same year).
:-)
~Christopher


Roses are the beautiful flowers through which you can show your love to someone, if you want to buy flowers, then contact flowersatkirribilli that has different varieties of flowers are available.
Here is a link that might be useful: different varieties of flowers


Mine virtually disappear as the spring flush opens and with not significant damage. This applies to about 40 years of roses. I suggest that people try doing nothing and see what happens. (No harm in spritzing or wiping if you want to take the trouble.)



It took mine 4-5 years with staking to develop a self-supporting framework. Fortunately it is cane-hardy at least to zone 6, or else you'd never get a decent plant. If I had it to do over again, I would use a 6' tripod or tuteur to help it gain height. It needs to be tall because the flowers nod. Heed Tuggy's suggestion of cutting the drooping laterals back to an inside (upward-facing) bud after blooming/
Mine has been gorgeous this spring flush. It is really strange that some people can't smell it. My 73-year-old nose finds the perfume to be powerful and consistent. But different people have different sets of scent receptors.
I would describe the colors as apricot to mild orange, fading to beige at the end. In my climate it is not often pink.
This post was edited by michaelg on Mon, Jun 16, 14 at 12:18

Thank you, Nancy! It is planted near Husker Red Penstemon Digitalis, which reliably blooms at the same time as the roses each year in the late spring. After the white blooms are over, you can cut it back and the foliage still looks nice for the rest of the summer. It is called "red" because the foliage and stems sometimes appear to have a dark, maroon type color.

Wow--they look great! I placed an order too. I got Purple Splash (cl) and a replacement Marilyn Monroe that didn't make it back from winter. Hopefully they get here today or tomorrow.
I've been very pleased with RU and their great plants. When I don't buy local roses, they are the first site I am on for hunting down roses on my wishlist.








If you have a New Dawn that doesn't rebloom, then you don't have New Dawn. Rather, you have the original parent, Dr. Van Fleet which is a once bloomer.
True New Dawn's rebloom very well provided they are deadheaded and usually have 3 flushes per year even here with our short summers. We get the heavy spring flush in June, another small flush in late July/early August and then another larger flush in mid September. Basically every 5-6 weeks or so.
Thanks the morden man, they are pretty when they are in bloom.....just planted Blossomtime and Awakening rose bands next to them, hopefully in 3 years I will see some re-blooms out of the same spots. Also I will try deadheading after their first bloom this year.....I might buy another New Dawn and give it a try if I can find a grafted one at any local nursery......
I see you're in Ontario, there is a Niagara Parks Botanical Garden, it has over 2400 roses, I love there!
Thanks again