22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
No, so long as it isn't a bareroot plant, but potted and growing, and you understand its watering needs over the summer.
Given the truly marginal roses that are described as 'hardy', it is easy to run out of words to describe Explorers. If you would do it with a lilac, or any other hardy shrub, you can do it with these roses.
I have a lot of young roses, hydrangeas and clematis so I water regularly. That wouldn't be a problem. I was looking at high country roses, they have an own root quadra on there for a good price.
Thanks so much for the advice. I think I will go w/ quadra for my arbor. :o)
Posted by jazzmom516 Zone 7 LI, NY (My Page) on Mon, Jun 16, 14 at 10:36
The second rose appears to be taller and bigger than Rose de Rescht. The scent is very strong. I really love the scent. Someone has suggested Rose Charles de Mills. But if you examine the leaves, they all have seven leaflets.
It's too big for either "Rose de Rescht" or 'Charles de Mills.' Though I've never seen it in person, the first name which came to mind for the second rose is 'Russelliana.'
:-)
~Christopher
Here is a link that might be useful: 'Russelliana' at HelpMeFind
Also see:
http://www.bbg.org/news/the_roses_are_in_bloom
Here is a link that might be useful: link for above
Both photos look like fungal disease problems and as others have posted-- choose disease resistant with excellent disease resistant qualities roses.
Many of the 'Earth Kind' roses are under that category as well as many newer varieties of Kordes roses and of course any of the hybrid roses created by Radler (Knock Outs and anything with baseball terms in them (Home Run)
Many of the Earth Kind and Knock Out roses are landscape shrub roses and not really specimen roses like say hybrid teas.
In the PNW you could have any of 5 or so fungal diseases, but these will tend to subside during the dry summers. I agree with campanula that it looks more like cercospora than blackspot, which is the more serious disease. Unlike blackspot, these sports have clear, firm margins. You can probably ignore it.
I figured we'd have lots of company across the country with balling (aka botrytis petal blight - thanks Michael). We finally had a dry week and the buds with fried edges have opened relatively cleanly after that week. I hadn't thought of the wet being a reason for the shattering, Harry, but you're entirely right - they've lasted maybe a day if that.
Unfortunately with all the rain and weak young canes from being pruned to the ground, all the longer canes are lying on the ground. I tried to move a few to upright but they snapped right off at the base, and I'm not risking those with only one or two canes. Too many times that has been the death of the rose, equivalent I guess to ripping off the rootstock at the base to kill it. I'm sort of hoping this will be a form of "pegging" so those canes lying on the ground sprout up laterals, but I've found most of my HTs and floris are reluctant to do this.
Ah well, I'll prune them back when they're done blooming and we'll move on from there.
Cynthia
Since you are in Australia availability is different, but you might be able to find 'Renae', which is pink, thornless (or at least 99% thornless), and fragrant. It also reblooms well.
Here is a link that might be useful: Renae @ helpmefind
NoAcceptance,
Drought the season earlier decreases Japanese Beetle grubs. I think it is harder for them to bore into the ground, and for the eggs to hatch without moisture.
I am speculating that a 4' deep frost line helps keep them down, too. We shall see. But prior to two years ago when they were so numerous here, I would usually get multiple grubs in each shovel full I would dig in the garden. And I have seen only 1 or 2 beetle grubs, and that was in May.
It's normal for so many roses, I wouldn't worry about it. Small own-root hybrid teas are usually going to be slow. Just keep staking until they can stand up. I have Pink Enchantment (Souv. de Baden-Baden) in 2nd year from 1-gallon. All canes were lost over winter, so it's still kind of pitiful. I removed the flower buds from the first flush and will stake as needed.
I would suggest that you keep nitrogen fertilizer at a low level so as not to encourage plant growth. On an own root young plant pinch back the stems so as to encourage lower breaks which will help form a bushy shrub with strong canes. it often takes a year of growth to form a nicely balanced plant from a one gallon container.
Kentstar,
I finally remembered my camera today Kentstar but I was to late as they already ripped out around 14 Ko's that never came back to life at our local Catholic Church...I'm really surprised as I thought they were more winter hardy... Hummmm
I did take some pics anyhow to show winter damage on some of them that nobody pruned out yet.
Looks like this type of KO's did better with less winter damage:
Awesome, thank you so much for answering my questions :) glad to hear they are good shoots. Will just let them go and see what it does, since it's finally seem like it has woken up and is doing well.
Basically, grafted/budded roses are "two plants in one" -- the roots are one variety, and the top-growth is another. Suckers (new shoots from the roots) are new top-growth from the root variety, and something you DON'T want.
But own-root roses are the same rose all the way through, top and bottom. So if new top growth comes from the roots, it will be the same as pre-existing top-growth. If the new shoots are not where you want them to be (as in Gallicas and Spinosissimas), then certainly remove them. But in your pic, those new shoots will help to develop a fuller, bushier plant than would be possible from a grafted/budded rose.
:-)
~Christopher