21,402 Garden Web Discussions | Roses

Someone needs to invent cheap speaker/motion-detector/solar driven units that could be placed all over ones property. The units would transmit to a receiver which in turn would cause the speaker that was the farthest away to start producing a pack-of-dogs barking sound. Then slowly advance to the next speaker unit that is in a direct line to the deer/object detected. Such as the dogs coming out of the barn to chase the deer. With the sound of a pack of dogs always behind the deer it shouldnâÂÂt be hard to run them off your property.
So, there ya go, run with it and make your millionsâ¦. just remember you heard it first here on GardenWebâ¦.. lol

Last year, I started with four cages. I found some plastic stakes that had a hole near the top. I used four stakes per cage and attached them with shower curtain hooks. It was a bother to keep unhooking the cages to access the bushes. I didn't notice any movement with the cages, unhooked, so I left them unhooked. The deer sick their tongues inside the cages and will eat anything they can reach. I need at least six inch clearance from plant to cage.
I have increased the size of some of the cages to get the clearance. They are all around four feet in diameter and four feet high. I have observed through deer damage that the deer can't eat anything higher than 3 1/2 feet.
About 25 years ago I rebuilt a wire fence between my property and a creek bed. The fence was 50 feet long, six feet high with 2/4 pressure treated wood in concrete. The wire fencing was attached with u shaped staples. The fence was not intended to keep deer out. One day a deer in my yard felt trapped and kicked the wire until an opening was created. I haven't bothered to repair it, since it would happen again. If a deer pushes against a cage, it flexed but doesn't move. It is more of a psychological than a physical barrier. A dog or a raccoon would need about three seconds to get under the cage. Fortunately my problem is with deer.
I have what is known as urban deer. A few small families that stay in the same area.
I rarely see a buck. Last year, there was a one that hung out around mating season and they are much more wary than the does.
I now have a cluster of 8 cages that offer more protection than a single cage. They go all the way to the right side of the photo. As you can see, they are not as obtrusive as a fence and no gate is required.



I don't usually prune them off unless there is some other issue that would require it to be removed. Black spot is out there everywhere and whether you have some spots on the canes or not the plant may still get it at a later date when the conditions are right for it to grow.

I got one at our Lowe's in Jan. It's already sprouting out and looking good so far. Will be interesting to see what it does. I'm really enjoying the Hulthemias. I tried numerous times to get EUPHRATES years ago, and never could manage to get it. I don't even remember where I tried to get it, but it was at a couple different sources that listed it back in the 90's. I'm glad to see so many new, similar, and apparently better roses. I got BULL'S EYE two yrs ago, and this yr got EYECONIC MELON LEMONADE and EYES FOR YOU. Also got a few yrs ago PERSIAN SUNSET as an own root, but it hasn't done much. It'll be fun to see everybody's pics of these this season.


I have to agree with Quadra too, even over the others mordenman listed, for a zone 4 climber. In my zone 5 yard, I would have put Illusion and Quadra in the same camp, but in this bitterly cold and snowless winter, Illusion survived fine but is getting pruned down to about 6" but Quadra sailed through the winter with only cosmetic pruning. It's supposed to be hardy to zone 3, and blooms for me all summer. The blooms are more crimson-pink than a true red but that's true of most "red" roses, particularly climbers.
Make sure it's a big and sturdy trellis that can hold a lot of weight. Quadra gets big canes and can tip over free-standing pillars, and it grows to second-story window height pretty easily, even with pruning.
Cynthia


I agree with everything Seil said about your roses, and this may be one of those learning experiences to see what roses like in your zone. Nowhere do they like being without air circulation, which is what those rose cones and some other kinds of protection can provide, so the canes that are black are dead and need to be cut off. Whether the rose itself is dead remains to be seen. As Seil said, cut off cane until you see creamy white/tan insides of the cane, but don't cut below the knobby chunk at the bottom of the rose - assuming it's a grafted rose, this knobby part is where the rose you want starts, and pruning below it will only leave a different root stock behind. As long as some cane is still alive above that graft, or even at the graft itself, the rose will come back and you might never know it was cut back by mid-summer.
For fall protection next time, you may want to check some old threads or post a new one in September or October and we can coach you in some relatively straightforward ways to protect roses with better odds for survival. Of course, in cold zones there are some roses that won't survive regardless, so it might not be the cone's fault.
Cynthia

Meye heavens, I'm still trying to get used to all the name changing as a rose crosses borders. I'm beginning to think the rose industry gives MI-5 a good go in a who-has-more-aliases challenge. Of course, there's nothing cagey about rose names.
I shouldn't be too critical of such habits. After they've been in my garden a few years, roses become "this one," "that one," or "the one back there," etc. Hopefully, none will ever be known as "that old thing?"
Anyway, thank you to kstrong in the thread linked below for letting me know that if I want to find Peace and Love I have to get some Eyes on Me.
Here is a link that might be useful: European Posters?? -- Eyes on Me

Honestly, a rose has three (3) names already and is registered for exhibition in the US with a fourth but is being sold in North America with a fifth?
Let's see if we can follow this.
CHEsumsigns becomes 'Love and Peace' which becomes 'Bright as a Button (or was it the other way around?) which becomes 'Eyes on Me.' 'Eyes on Me' is now AKA (also known as) 'Raspberry Kiss.'
I guess the CIA said it didn't like the reference to MI-5 and insisted that North Americans prove they could have more aliases!
Actually with my brief web search, it appears that Mr. Warner's rose is now primarily known as 'Raspberry Kiss.' So, it would probably be more accurate to say that it is also known as any and all of the other names as well as a certain magazine's promotional name.
And it turns out that ole Amos Pettingill either thinks it is exceptional somehow or believes that it's actually white with deeper and deeper pink shading. No telling which.
Latest name change announcement in the thread linked below:
Here is a link that might be useful: Raspberry Kiss (Eyes on Me)


Thank you all for your suggestions!
I think I am going to go with Alchymist from High Country. It achieves the height I need, along with being hardy to zone 4. It only blooms once, but those huge apricot blooms look amazing. The clematis and side garden should fill in the gap as well. I've come to realize that thorns are a part of roses, so I'll just have to give those pruners an extra workout! :)

Thanks for all the suggestions. I ended up putting the Gemini in the pot. I have read in a lot of places that roses on fortuniana can do well in pots, so I thought it was worth a try. I just wish I had more spots in the yard to put them in the ground. Makes me want to move to a place with a bigger yard.

Thanks you all. That's a real shame...I only ordered Austins from Pickering (Palatine doesn't sell them) and a few others that Palatine didn't have as I have ordered from Palatine before and been thrilled with the quality!
I was in HD today and saw body bags with canes 3 X the size of the Pickering roses.
I'm glad to hear that the Pickering roses do ok. I was really, really disappointed. Not just in the size but in the health.
Susan

Susan, the body bag plants you saw were most likely budded on Dr. Huey from Texas or California. Comparing them to anything on multiflora, particularly from anywhere in a cold climate (compared to the south or south west) is not really fair. Both may eventually resemble each other, but very few will initially. Kim


All lavenders are not the same, if you can find a Goodwin Creek Grey mine seem to just keep on blooming non stop. The one that is getting too much water is bigger than the one that is getting less. Mine have spread to the 3 foot size (and yes I planted them thinking they were going to be 2 footers....)
I love the greens and deeper tones of Hidecote, it blooms less so far for me, but I will be adding more of this one. It is also much smaller.
My Munsteads are growing much slower so I really can't tell you much about them.
If you have space and want non stop flowers...Goodwin Creek Grey is a winner.







I saw several pictures of it on HMF growing in pots as a shrub so... It sure is gorgeous!
I have mine growing essentially as a free-standing plant, though I'd describe it more of a pillar than a bush. It grows fairly thick self-supporting canes without much significant support, though once it gets beyond about 6 feet I have to either provide something to prop it up or prune it back to keep the top from flopping over. Under these conditions, it doesn't seem to put out many basals so the blooms are mostly in the top 1/3 of the plant. Mine is 6-7 feet tall but no more than 2 feet wide. In contrast, my Quadra when it was grown as a self-supporting bush was probably 6 feet tall and 8 feet wide with gangly masses of canes from the base reaching all over the place.
i presume with different pruning patterns Aloha could be encouraged to broaden out a bit, but it doesn't seem to be its first choice. Also a Med climate your conditions are considerably more humid and warmer than mine.
Cynthia