22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
In zones 6/7 any new growth that results from cutting them now will probably not have enough time to harden off before winter sets in, so you will lose it. Not to worry though. Just cut what you want and enjoy them. Hold off on doing any other hard pruning until next spring though. You want to leave as much cane as possible for the rose to store energy in for spring.
I work in a greenhouse. We have discard piles that need to be written off. Usually we wait till we have enough to go to the trouble. Well in that pile one day I was walking by and something bright orange caught my eye. When I got closer I saw that it was a very pretty orange blossom on a little rose that was almost dead. The rose was Orange Triumph, a hardy shrub. I have nursed it back to health at the greenhouse. It has grown well with the extra attention. Sorry I don't have a picture to show you but it might be worth checking out.
Valerie
I love Tropicana, but it can lean toward the coral side of orange. One that I had that I loved was Cary Grant. Huge buds and blooms, strong fragrance, took my breath away everytime I saw it. Unfortunately I don't have it anymore, but may need to put it on my list to buy again. I only had it four years...
Good to know. I'm looking for tan roses, but they must make good cut flowers. The only reason I didn't order it at Rogue Valley is because I didn't want another big climber. I have Mels Heritage on the way and I have been warned that it becomes enormous.
Thank you Roseseek, looks like I dodged the bullet on Butterscotch. I would have been so disappointed to find out after growing it a few years that it did not make good cut flowers.
You're welcome. I sincerely doubt you are going to find any garden rose in those tones that will come close to lasting as long as anything selected for cut flower work. Either their petals are too soft; they have too few petals or not enough petals. Those selected for floral work more often have heavier, waxier petals which stand up to being handled and transported. It's what the catalogs always called "heavy petal substance". It's what makes some roses more suitable for exhibition and some less suitable. If there was an exhibition variety in that shade, it should be closer to what you want than anything scented.
I don't know what they are on, but both my love song and Posidon are grafted. I bought them at a local nursery sale when every rose was $7. As you can imagine I went nuts. The roses all had "Weeks" tags on them, so I imagine they are on whatever Weeks uses for warm climates.
A lot depends on the soil conditions and the gardener--I've moved very large root systems--up to about 4' x 4' with many large roots in all directions--which can allow you to move a very large plant during dormacy and have a big vigorous plant growing in a new spot. But, if the soil is too sticky or too hard, you may have to re-consider how much of the plant you want to move.
I agree with Seil. It is better to move it in spring.
November is not a good time of the year to prune or move a rose in a cold climate. Pruning a rose causes stress and the plant exudes sugars. The plant needs all its energy to make it through the winter.
After you move a rose you have to water a lot. November is not a good time to water a lot. November is not a good time to fight swirling winds and watering roses.
A winter protection method will help alleviate some of the dieback. I use the same winterizing method for my viking queen climber, topped off with frozen curled up leaves with zero dieback.
In Zone 5 cold climate I move a rose in the spring. Like a bare root rose. I wait until I see the new growth appear in the Spring, then I prune the plant back to make the move easier. Water water water. Roses roses should be pruned in the Spring.
I try to get as much soil and use a tarp. Or another method I used this year. I soak the soil for 1hr, use gloves and slowly pull the entire plant up. Just like bare root roses.
Then I add compost and soil from where I removed the rose from.
The spring is much better for me, no dieback.
Sam
Kublakan, The second list is different from the first. Are those roses in addition to the first list. I called down and got the same girl I had placed my order from and she could not tell me for sure.... Now I am worried about my order. Hopefully, I will get everything OK.
Thank you.
I am not part of this circle nor of previous discussions, but I do want to point out that people sometimes ask the wrong questions (or make bad assumptions) and it may be truly the best thing to do to answer what they should have asked (with some explanation why). This is a general observation and not at all geared to this particular discussion...just wanted to point it out.
You're welcome, Paul, thank YOU for creating a rose Carolyn (who saw EVERYTHING which passed through and originated from Sequioa for three and a half-PLUS decades) was sufficiently impressed with to bear her name. That speaks volumes. And, yes, thank YOU Jeri for fascilitating such marvelous roses' spread and preservation. Both require a great deal of love, talent and dedication. (It is lovely to "see you", Paul. You have been AWOL far too long!)
Several years ago I lost 10 rose plants all from cane bores. I am not sure what kind they were but they also took out a citrus tree. I tried to use wood glue over a cut, then I tried orange shellac, nothing worked. The borers found or created their own pinpoint hole in the sides of the green cane, even though from what I read they were not supposed to do this. But when I tried to cut the borer out I could go above the worm and find good cane, but they kept finding their way back inside the cane and not from the top or the cut. Eventually, they ate the rose down to the graft killing the rose. Since then I started using the Bayer systemic when I replaced the roses - so far I haven't had any cane borers.
I have also started using spinosad because now I have chilli thrips
A lot of things can effect the blooms. Any condition change during the early development of the buds can make the bloom have more or less petals or change color or size. If it was hot when one developed and cold when the other developed that could do it. If it was sunny for one and cloudy for the other that would do it. There are tons of variables involved. Wait and see what the third bud does, and if it was me, I'd wait for another flush before deciding on it.
If possible, bag them before cutting as you may disturb the mites. I wonder where they came from....have you seen similar looking growth in your area?
Surprisingly enough, I find that I don't get root suckers of multiflora in my acid clay soil. Seems like I can just whack the bushes with an ax and they go away, unlike Dr. Huey, which will regrow from tiny bits of root left in the soil. As a precautionary measure I took out the three big multiflora that were growing in my yard that came with the property in 2001.