22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
But remember -- again -- that "Disease Resistant" is relative.
Those knockout roses are considered "disease resistant," because they appear to be resistant to most types of blackspot.
In my part of Southern California, where blackspot is a very rare visitor -- they mildew.
So one area's disease-resistant rose is another area's fungus-ridden disaster.
Jeri
"Roses", Jack Harkness. Scientist, poet, romantic who "spoke roses". The book gives personal experience with many dozens of varieties and explains why they were milestones in their days.
"Rose Growing Complete", Edward LeGrice, the paperback edition, not the earlier hardback as the later paperback contains so much more information. Includes "150 years of British Seedling Roses" and the history of the Royal National Rose Society.
Both of these authors were fine gentlemen who were highly respected as people, business people, breeders and rose producers. It shows in their writing. Two men whom I would have loved to have met in person. And two breeders whose roses taught me much and brought me much pleasure.
"Roses: From Dreams to Reality", Herb Swim. A very interesting look into the mind of one of America's most successful rose breeders.
"Papa Floribunda: The Gene Boerner Story". Interesting look into the man who created the "modern floribunda", which contains historic information about a number of roses; J&P and personalities surrounding them.
"A Rose Odyssey", Dr. J.H. Nicholas. A "round the world" rose adventure in 1937, just prior to the outbreak of WWII, written by one of the more knowledgeable, experienced and observant rose men of the Century.
"Hennessey on Roses", Roy Hennessey. The author had OPINIONS! He was engaged in open warfare with the ARS. He authored a rose column in the local paper which also ran the ARS rebuttal to each edition. He was a conspiracy theorist on MANY subjects. Ralph Moore's first experience with him was as he was "profanely" throwing Robert Pyle (Conard-Pyle; Star Roses) off his property. Mr. Moore said, "Letters from Roy arrived SMOKING", though he reported Hennessey always treated him well. Much of his "rose theology" may have been appropriate for his time and location, but not for many of ours. But, who could resist a book whose dedication reads (click on the image to enlarge).. to which I would respectfully add, Mrs. Hennessey was a long-suffering saint! Kim
You're welcome Kim. I hope that's what it is. It's a really great rose. It's almost always in bloom, and just loaded with them. The buds start out creamy white with a hint of red and open up with edges coral-red, fading to a med coral pink. One stem can make a whole bouquet. I planted mine at the front of one of my flowerbeds that joins two other beds at an intersection of walkways. I have to be careful walking in between there because this rose just takes over the whole area, and I often get snagged on one of the big canes. Wish I would've known how it grew before I planted it there, cuz it would be better somewhere else. Every yr I hack it way down, and it comes right back the next season like a big monster!
Hi Seil: Thanks a lot for the reply. Well, for one thing I want a sandy space for planting my beebalm and asters where they won't get drunk on my rose soil and fall over. It's my only available sunny spot. But at the side I also wanted a little rock niche to experiment with some very small plants, such as the gentians. Not having a clue what I was doing, I bought a trumpet gentian before finding out how hard they are to grow and get to flower. Once I found out, I figured I could either put it in the compost now and save myself the trouble, or else I have to make a home for it and pray to the saints of Beginner's Luck. There is only one place on my property for it, and that's at the foot of New Dawn's growing area, which is slightly sloping. I also would like to try other gentians that are easier to grow in the future, and there may be some pH differentials needed between New Dawn and the gentians. So I'd like to put some slate vertically in the ground between the rose soil and the sandy soil, and I'll be putting lots of gravelly soil at the bottom of the sandy part for good drainage. Also lift up the soil level of the lower half of the space so that New Dawn's water no longer flows down and saturates the bottom. I erred when I said there were 3-1/2 ft open space in front of where ND is planted. When I took out the rocks around the bed, there are actually 4-1/2 ft, and I'd like to cut that down to 2-1/2 to 3 ft from ND, which has considerable open space in other directions. Any further advice would be much appreciated.
Subtropical and humid? I'm in like Flynn... especially if it comes with a free rose of a sort I can't currently get Stateside. 'Hugo Roller', maybe?
Okay, I'm dreaming out loud again, but the book does sound like it would be pertinent to my conditions, and at least some of the recommended roses are likely to be available here, right?
Thanks for the heads up,
Virginia
When it is released, it will be announced on his website, including international sales. Kim
Here is a link that might be useful: HainsRoses
First frost Sunday night in New England and much of NY State! We are a little further South and won't get frost, but frost in mid-September! Hope that we won't be getting hit by another vortex this winter. Where is Al Gore with his slides on global warming when you need him?
Ann,
Thank you for your response. I looked the rugosa over and the sepals on the hips look the same throughout the plant and I can't tell a difference with leaves other than lighter color on new growth. The growth seems to be happening all over the bush and not limited to a cane or two. The only thing that I felt was odd as how quickly the last set of blooms was spent but that was probably the weather. I will keep watch. Do you by any chance have any photos of the infected rugosas you have encountered?
Thank you again for taking the time to respond.
I'm sorry I don't have photos.
On one near Knoxville, there were even denser thorns and curved stem growth and the 'rugose' leaves had spaces in between the veins that had overgrown the spaces and it almost looked as if I could pop the spaces (like an odd bubble wrap.)
Up in Canada, the rugosa crosses were second or third year infections and they had canes lines with witches brooms at every leaf break/bud axils. And distorted blooms.
One of the oddest things about RRD is that a certain point, the blooms stop having 'normal' sexual parts and things start to be missing. An example is the blooms on 'New Dawn' which has petals coming right out of the stems (no receptacles, no seeds, just petals.)
When RRD gets into the roses gone wild in New England, I think we'll see a lot more different kinds of aberrant growth.
Ann
More reports about 'Pink Enchantment' nee 'Souvenir de Baden Baden' are available in the thread linked below.
(I cannot report because first, I grow own root and own roots are not available in commerce as quickly as grafted plants, and second I try to adhere to a rule that I won't comment on them before their 3rd year ).
Here is a link that might be useful: 'Souvenir de Baden-Baden' / Pink Enchantment
âÂÂAt the September ARS National in St. Louis, one of the speakers was a breeder from Kordes. He pointed out that 1990 was the year that they quit spraying in the fields. That is when disease resistance truly became a criteria for selection.â -- Posted by flower2sew z6 Indep MO on Thu, Oct 4, 07
It takes about 10 years to bring a rose into commerce.
Doing a little math:
1990 - stopped spraying.
Add a year for the observation of those results yields
Add ten years yields
This is why I specify the 21st century Kordes roses.
I have 5 Tantau roses and one Kordes on trial for the third year now. They are not entirely new but new for Sweden which is why they sent them here for trialling. Three Tantaus are quite healthy, Baronesse, Mariatheresia and Pastella are absolutely BS free. The fourth in the same bed is Alabaster and this year it is very spotted, probably because of our strange summer with cold alternating with heat and rain. The single Tantau climber Uetersener Klosterrose did very well the first two years but has been a disaster this summer. The only Kordes rose, Rotkäppchen is perfectly healthy.
Looks like it will be a good way to find rose videos for presentation at rose society/gardening meetings.
http://www.site.co.uk/drag_it/web_drags/search_all/gardening-roses-videos
Here is a link that might be useful: example search
I had St. Patrick. It was one of my favorites. I never had a balling problem, the blooms would open, but not fully. But as Ken said, you could have 2 dozen or more long stem blooms on one bush at a time. I once was able to cut a very nice dozen and bring them in the house. Mine had gall and I had to dig it up. I would like to replace it.
Ok, after these mixed reviews, I have decided to keep mine for a while longer and give them a chance. I actually have a few blooms now that did not ball. They are small but the form is perfect. I think they are liking the milder temps we are finally starting to have. I am going to see what October brings. Jim, you can tell the grim reaper to go away. :-)Thanks everyone!
That said, many of the older Hybrid Tea Roses do NOT grow well on their own roots. They were bred and released to be grown as budded to a vigorous rootstock.
As the trend will be, more and more, to own-root production, some of those roses will probably be grown only by collectors, or as custom-budded, by nurseries such as Burlington Rose Nursery.
In the case of your 'Black Magic,' there are a good many sources listed on HelpMeFind. If I wanted a rose badly, I'd go right down the list, and check with all of them.
If that didn't pay off, I'd get one from Heirloom, on its own roots. Then, I'd contact Burlington, about custom budding.
Here is a link that might be useful: Sources for Rosa Black Magic
LINK WARZ!
See the following from Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott, a horticultural scientist who knows the research on mulches and has contributed some herself. Wood chips are excellent if you don't have leaves or pine needles on your property. Call a tree guy and ask him to dump a load when he is in the neighborhood. Should be free or maybe ten bucks. Great for the garden, no shipping / energy costs, and it keeps stuff out of the local landfill. Or use whatever else is cheap and local.
Here is a link that might be useful: wood chips
What was with that flood of posts by the earlier poster? Is he just carrying on a long monologue with himself? Or does he really think he is interacting with other real life posters?
Weird. Reminds me of an earlier poster who used to post message after message after message--in a row. Oblivious to the fact that no one was responding to any of them. Hmmmm.
Kate