22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Hi Seil: Thanks a lot for the reply. Well, for one thing I want a sandy space for planting my beebalm and asters where they won't get drunk on my rose soil and fall over. It's my only available sunny spot. But at the side I also wanted a little rock niche to experiment with some very small plants, such as the gentians. Not having a clue what I was doing, I bought a trumpet gentian before finding out how hard they are to grow and get to flower. Once I found out, I figured I could either put it in the compost now and save myself the trouble, or else I have to make a home for it and pray to the saints of Beginner's Luck. There is only one place on my property for it, and that's at the foot of New Dawn's growing area, which is slightly sloping. I also would like to try other gentians that are easier to grow in the future, and there may be some pH differentials needed between New Dawn and the gentians. So I'd like to put some slate vertically in the ground between the rose soil and the sandy soil, and I'll be putting lots of gravelly soil at the bottom of the sandy part for good drainage. Also lift up the soil level of the lower half of the space so that New Dawn's water no longer flows down and saturates the bottom. I erred when I said there were 3-1/2 ft open space in front of where ND is planted. When I took out the rocks around the bed, there are actually 4-1/2 ft, and I'd like to cut that down to 2-1/2 to 3 ft from ND, which has considerable open space in other directions. Any further advice would be much appreciated.
Subtropical and humid? I'm in like Flynn... especially if it comes with a free rose of a sort I can't currently get Stateside. 'Hugo Roller', maybe?
Okay, I'm dreaming out loud again, but the book does sound like it would be pertinent to my conditions, and at least some of the recommended roses are likely to be available here, right?
Thanks for the heads up,
Virginia
When it is released, it will be announced on his website, including international sales. Kim
Here is a link that might be useful: HainsRoses
First frost Sunday night in New England and much of NY State! We are a little further South and won't get frost, but frost in mid-September! Hope that we won't be getting hit by another vortex this winter. Where is Al Gore with his slides on global warming when you need him?
Ann,
Thank you for your response. I looked the rugosa over and the sepals on the hips look the same throughout the plant and I can't tell a difference with leaves other than lighter color on new growth. The growth seems to be happening all over the bush and not limited to a cane or two. The only thing that I felt was odd as how quickly the last set of blooms was spent but that was probably the weather. I will keep watch. Do you by any chance have any photos of the infected rugosas you have encountered?
Thank you again for taking the time to respond.
I'm sorry I don't have photos.
On one near Knoxville, there were even denser thorns and curved stem growth and the 'rugose' leaves had spaces in between the veins that had overgrown the spaces and it almost looked as if I could pop the spaces (like an odd bubble wrap.)
Up in Canada, the rugosa crosses were second or third year infections and they had canes lines with witches brooms at every leaf break/bud axils. And distorted blooms.
One of the oddest things about RRD is that a certain point, the blooms stop having 'normal' sexual parts and things start to be missing. An example is the blooms on 'New Dawn' which has petals coming right out of the stems (no receptacles, no seeds, just petals.)
When RRD gets into the roses gone wild in New England, I think we'll see a lot more different kinds of aberrant growth.
Ann
More reports about 'Pink Enchantment' nee 'Souvenir de Baden Baden' are available in the thread linked below.
(I cannot report because first, I grow own root and own roots are not available in commerce as quickly as grafted plants, and second I try to adhere to a rule that I won't comment on them before their 3rd year ).
Here is a link that might be useful: 'Souvenir de Baden-Baden' / Pink Enchantment
âÂÂAt the September ARS National in St. Louis, one of the speakers was a breeder from Kordes. He pointed out that 1990 was the year that they quit spraying in the fields. That is when disease resistance truly became a criteria for selection.â -- Posted by flower2sew z6 Indep MO on Thu, Oct 4, 07
It takes about 10 years to bring a rose into commerce.
Doing a little math:
1990 - stopped spraying.
Add a year for the observation of those results yields
Add ten years yields
This is why I specify the 21st century Kordes roses.
I have 5 Tantau roses and one Kordes on trial for the third year now. They are not entirely new but new for Sweden which is why they sent them here for trialling. Three Tantaus are quite healthy, Baronesse, Mariatheresia and Pastella are absolutely BS free. The fourth in the same bed is Alabaster and this year it is very spotted, probably because of our strange summer with cold alternating with heat and rain. The single Tantau climber Uetersener Klosterrose did very well the first two years but has been a disaster this summer. The only Kordes rose, Rotkäppchen is perfectly healthy.
Looks like it will be a good way to find rose videos for presentation at rose society/gardening meetings.
http://www.site.co.uk/drag_it/web_drags/search_all/gardening-roses-videos
Here is a link that might be useful: example search
I had St. Patrick. It was one of my favorites. I never had a balling problem, the blooms would open, but not fully. But as Ken said, you could have 2 dozen or more long stem blooms on one bush at a time. I once was able to cut a very nice dozen and bring them in the house. Mine had gall and I had to dig it up. I would like to replace it.
Ok, after these mixed reviews, I have decided to keep mine for a while longer and give them a chance. I actually have a few blooms now that did not ball. They are small but the form is perfect. I think they are liking the milder temps we are finally starting to have. I am going to see what October brings. Jim, you can tell the grim reaper to go away. :-)Thanks everyone!
That said, many of the older Hybrid Tea Roses do NOT grow well on their own roots. They were bred and released to be grown as budded to a vigorous rootstock.
As the trend will be, more and more, to own-root production, some of those roses will probably be grown only by collectors, or as custom-budded, by nurseries such as Burlington Rose Nursery.
In the case of your 'Black Magic,' there are a good many sources listed on HelpMeFind. If I wanted a rose badly, I'd go right down the list, and check with all of them.
If that didn't pay off, I'd get one from Heirloom, on its own roots. Then, I'd contact Burlington, about custom budding.
Here is a link that might be useful: Sources for Rosa Black Magic
A lot of these older HTs were bred to be grafted and were never tested as own root roses so there is really no way to know now how they might preform as such. The only thing you can do is give it a try and see how it does in your garden.
If you can find a better quality grafted plant at a nursery, whether local or on line, you may find it will do much better for you. The big box stores like Walmart do not get in the best quality plants to begin with and that may be why you're having difficulties. Some times a rose is just a dud from the get go. It might have a weak root system or have been grafted poorly or whatever. It's just never going to do well no matter what you do. That doesn't mean that that variety is a bad rose. It just means you got a bad plant of it.
Thank you everyone. I liked Kate's suggestion about trying the multiflora so I decided to go ahead and order one from Palatine, I've already done it. I am still a little curious about the own-root from ARE, I have been wanting to try them, because of the high praise they receive. It could be that since lizardacres lives in zone 9 that makes a big difference in the way CI would perform. Years ago I had a Chrysler Imperial planted on the south side of my house. Seems like it got fairly large and was covered with blooms. Perhaps planting it in a different location would help.
"Girdle" just means the bark dies all the way around the cane, so the cane dies above that spot. If the bark is killed only halfway around, the cane will survive and support some growth and bloom.
There are borers that tunnel way down the cane, but these do not start with drilling the fresh-cut pith at a priming cut. Google "raspberry horntail." Nests of the pith-drillers ("small carpenter bee") are usually 2" deep, although once in 35 years I found a deep tunnel.
Canker is a fungal infection and there are several kinds. Dormant sprays of sulfur or lime sulfur can help with one kind, but its not worth the trouble IMO.
I did live in the burbs in Houston for almost a decade, and if I see your gardening area correctly, the rose is planted right next to a cement slab. (And the weepholes in the brick wall in back of the rose?)
The problem is, or at least may be, that the slab may be affecting the pH of the soil. And that pH may be affecting nutrient uptake by your roses. (Also there may be some chemical treatments done to the perimeter of your house before you moved in.
First, call the Texas County extension agent and ask him or her about getting a soil test for that specific soil (forget about any suggestions that you should take samples from all over your yard, that's for grass growers). Also ask that the test check for nutrients in the soil.
As Ann says, iron deficiency chlorosis commonly occurs next to slabs and foundations because of high pH. However, this looks like mild RoundUp or other herbicide damage to me. It commonly shows up in new growth when there was enough of a dose to throw the development process off but not enough to kill the extant leaves. A tiny amount can cause symptoms on roses.
Gorgeous. And what a lovely friend you are.
This post was edited by susan4952 on Sat, Sep 13, 14 at 23:36
You're welcome Kim. I hope that's what it is. It's a really great rose. It's almost always in bloom, and just loaded with them. The buds start out creamy white with a hint of red and open up with edges coral-red, fading to a med coral pink. One stem can make a whole bouquet. I planted mine at the front of one of my flowerbeds that joins two other beds at an intersection of walkways. I have to be careful walking in between there because this rose just takes over the whole area, and I often get snagged on one of the big canes. Wish I would've known how it grew before I planted it there, cuz it would be better somewhere else. Every yr I hack it way down, and it comes right back the next season like a big monster!