22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I doubt it too with commercial mulch and their composted temperatures. I am concerned that another vector for this disease might be aphids as they mimic the mites in terms of their sucking parts of the sap.
Currently from what I understand, there is not enough research money or someone setting up a scientific study to determine if aphids are another vector of this disease.
I bought a bunch of bags of mulch this weekend. I forgot to put out two of them. So last night I opened them and put them down. The mulch was so HOT!. I hope that killed all the weeds I put it over.
Those bags sit out in the sun at Home Depot or whatever. I'm not sure the mites could survive that. But still, don't put a RRD bush in the landfill or compost!
That is the first time I have ever seen a full-grown bush of George Burns. Had no idea it would be so lovely and floriferous!
As to the weak branches practically lying on the ground, just look around the yard for a twiglet of the right size that has fallen from a tree and carefully position it under the weak branch as you gently raise it to a more upright position. The twiglet will be hardly noticeable, and the weak branch will appreciate being able to lean on the twiglet.
I often do that for my new baby roses.
kate
Here in NY its a lot different the fertilizer schedule. Here we wait till the roses leaf out completely and then I use Espoma Rose Tone around each plant -- I either wait for rain to be in the forecast to wash it in or if you do not mulch, you can scratch it into the soil. I also apply my 1st application of Epsom salts around each rose too. Figure about a half cup of the fertilizer and salts around each rose.
In May, June, July and August I feed again with the Rose Tone and in July I do my 2nd application of Epsom salts.
They do pretty well with this routine.
Mad is right, they need cooler and damper conditions than most homes have. I can't give you exact figures because I really don't know. They also like good air circulation too so you'd need a fan to create some air movement. I guess if you can provide all of that it might work. But truthfully it will be a hard job to keep them happy. They're better off outside.
"The Effect of Photon Flux Density and Lighting Period on Growth, Flowering, Powdery Mildew and Water Relations of Miniature Roses"
See:
http://www.scirp.org/journal/PaperInformation.aspx?paperID=46556#.U5c9PvldWcU
Here is a link that might be useful: link for above
First, forget the pebbles or any other "stuff" in the pot bottoms. It doesn't help. Second, if you can safely remove the soil balls without them breaking up and messing up the root balls, you can safely repot the plants. If the root balls aren't sufficiently knit together so they don't break up, don't mess with them. It would be better to wait until the soil balls are sufficiently knit together so they come out whole, in one piece. If that's later this summer, do it later this summer. If it doesn't happen by late winter, early spring, when you would be planting bare roots anyway, wait until that time and repot them. If they break up and put the roses at risk because of the disturbance, at least it is the appropriate time of year for them to experience that disturbance. Good luck! Kim
Botrytis normally affects the outer petals most. On flowers it produces brown rotten spots, not usually noticeable gray fuzz, I have never seen or heard of the problem you describe on a HT. Some cluster-flowering roses abort some buds for mysterious reasons. The neck tissue turns reddish and then yellow.
Oh, Carol,
Your Perfume Delight was one of my earlier learning experiences. I had two of them. I loved the bloom color, the bloom form and (most of all) the scent.
And that's where the love stopped.
My two Perfume Delights had BLACK SPOT. The BS they had was the worst of any roses I've ever grown. It became a challenge to find a spray to suppress their BS. This challenge became more serious as they shared their BS with roses in the same bed, and the immediately down wind roses suffered.
Nothing worked to keep leaves on Perfume Delights . Nothing.
When I shovel pruned them in their fourth infected year, I felt a giant relief and the rest of the roses in that bed did much better without a source of problem so near by.
Splotches on the canes ....were worst on my Graham Stuart Thomas hedge of roses and on IIRC Patricia Austin. Those roses kept leaves with spraying fungicides.
Perfume Delight was a learning experience.
Ann (of the ethylene comment)
Okay - good thoughts.
I think I might toss it if it gets bad black spot. I don't tolerate that in my roses - and there's no need to spray here - since very few roses get BS.
Hmmmm....I'll keep an eye on this one.
Bummer. - but thanks!
Carol
Date: 06-09-2014
Problems: I think Sunshine Daydream may be getting Blackspot. The picture shows a few yellowed leaves with spots. So far, they only appear on the lower portion of the rose bush, and are really close to the ground. I have also seen some yellow leaves on Fourth of July, Julia Child, and Roxy. But that may simply be natural aging of the leaves, some they only appear on the lowest portion of the rose bush, and well hidden by the leaves above.
But so far, Bolero, Dick Clark, and Knockout stay completely clean. But they don't have much leaves on the bottom to speak of, because of pruning and transplanting.
I don't see any yellow leaves on the Lady of Shalott.
In the past few days, temperature has been from 50's to 80's, with humidity in the range of 50% to almost 90%.
I love 'Sunshine Daydream'. Pretty in bud as well as opened. Lovely aged color too. I've heard yellow roses are the most susceptible color to blackspot. I'd be willing to spray with this one.
But 'Lady of Shalott' absolutely knocks me out. Incredible beauty that I finally saw in person this year.
Shoots from the graft and above cannot be rootstock unless they grafted rootstock on rootstock.
Tropicana has dark matte foliage, while Dr. Huey has glossy. Yours appears to be matte.
Tropicana has an awkward plant habit and does throw some long canes. Or it could be the climbing sport of Tropicana. Ordinarily I would expect most roses to have flower buds by this time of the year, but I wouldn't give up on it just yet. If it is the climber, canes might grow 7-8' before blooming.
This post was edited by michaelg on Mon, Jun 9, 14 at 16:14
I posted after seeing only your first photo. After looking at the newer pictures and close ups I rescind my first statement. If those canes are coming from ABOVE the graft, which they appear to be, they are probably Tropicana. They are just new young canes. I would wait and see if they bloom before doing anything else with it.
In order to post more than one picture at a time you have to put your photos on some kind of photo hosting site like Photobucket, Shutterfly or Picture Trail. Then from there you would copy and paste the HTML code into your post. You can post as many as you want that way.
No need to treat for mites and thrips--there's no sign of them. If you had mites, the treatment would just be to spray underneath the leaves repeatedly with water. It's unusual to find thrips being bad enough to require treatment. Agains, the image doesn't suggest thrips to me.
Also my roses do well without extra fancy soil. Obviously you need to get rid of any large rocks. If your soil is sandy, the best additive is clay in the form of plain kitty litter, between 10 and 15% of the volume. Then did in some manure and maintain an organic mulch that will rot into the soil over the years. If your soil is clay, just add manure and avoid compacting it when it is wet.
HSOB, as long as your native soil is good enough to grow healthy plants and has good drainage I would not worry about using fancy soils...
Unless you plan on creating raised beds for your roses...
No need to treat for anything until you identify your exact problem...