22,152 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Shoots from the graft and above cannot be rootstock unless they grafted rootstock on rootstock.
Tropicana has dark matte foliage, while Dr. Huey has glossy. Yours appears to be matte.
Tropicana has an awkward plant habit and does throw some long canes. Or it could be the climbing sport of Tropicana. Ordinarily I would expect most roses to have flower buds by this time of the year, but I wouldn't give up on it just yet. If it is the climber, canes might grow 7-8' before blooming.
This post was edited by michaelg on Mon, Jun 9, 14 at 16:14
I posted after seeing only your first photo. After looking at the newer pictures and close ups I rescind my first statement. If those canes are coming from ABOVE the graft, which they appear to be, they are probably Tropicana. They are just new young canes. I would wait and see if they bloom before doing anything else with it.
In order to post more than one picture at a time you have to put your photos on some kind of photo hosting site like Photobucket, Shutterfly or Picture Trail. Then from there you would copy and paste the HTML code into your post. You can post as many as you want that way.
Sara-Ann, thank you for the info, now I can't decide whether to dig it or leave it...I do have Columbus Queen that I suspect can use a better home, it's been a one-cane wonder with no sign of basal break :(
Seil, I think you are right, no amount of watering can competely replace rainfall. On that note, maybe I should cut back on the watering since it's not totally necessary to give them that much water.
I totally agree about the rain being better than just watering. It's amazing how quickly things can change with roses. Several of my roses are absolutely loaded with new growth. As an example, Tropicana, which I like very much and is a good rose for me is producing more buds than I have ever seen on that variety.
My choice is DEER. The local rose garden in the park had a HUGE deer problem until they had a twelve foot fence installed. Now the garden is lovely all year. If it is a chain link fence the deer can see what there is to eat and will happily leap a five foot fence.
It sounds exactly like what happened in my yard a few years ago. I fenced my front yard in. We pay through the nose in taxes for the previlege of living in one of the heavily regulated jurisdictions in the U.S. so the fence naturally cannot be go higher than 6 feet and cannot be anything less than cast iron or alumium under town ordinance. And of course that it does not work. To show their contempt at my feeble attempt to thwart them, a herd of day left an extraordinary amount of fecal matters on my walkway a few days after the fence was put in. So, in addition to the fence, I have been using a combination of Repellex (which supposeldy makes the roses taste bad to critters) and lots and lots of Milorganic (made from raw sewage, the stink is what supposedly repells deer). So far, so good. But I am knocking on wood as it only takes one deer to destroy my rose reason...
I usually do not fertilize first year roses I plant in the ground.
But if you do maybe wait until after it blooms then just use a fraction of the amount of liquid fertilizer it calls for in the directions since the rose probably is smaller...
It's a coretta scott king grandiflora. From what I understand they are new this year. Seil thank you for the info . I had clay type soil but I dug out about a 3x3x3 spot and filled with 2/3 topsoil and 1/3 compost/manure blend. The rest of my plants have adapted but I want my roses to have perfect conditions. I have researched everything else pretty heavy but I couldn't find anything on the leaves
That is really good to know about Eden being a somewhat finicky rose depending on the area. That is another lovely picture. My mother-in-law and father-in-law visited Vancouver Island and showed my gorgeous pictures. Even though these are not good roses for your area, I'm sure there are so many stunning roses that you are able to grow that I can't. I'm really hoping the Eden and Balero will both do well for me. Does BS stand for Black Spot? I'm sorry, I'm really new to growing roses. The only rose I've ever grown before recent is the iceberg rose... which is an amazing rose for my area. It performs like none other. Here's a picture of it growing at my old house where it was grown in under a patio cover, so it didn't get the ideal amount of sun... yet it still bloomed almost year round for me.
BS is blackspot, yes. It is not a debilitating disease in Southern California. In other climates especially east of the Rockies, it can be so devastating as to kill a rose, because the rose cannot hold any foliage, goes into a harsh winter weak, and doesn't survive the winter. Here it's a minor annoyance, mostly in rainy winters.
Thank you every one, you guys are all so wonderful. Thanks Bonnie and Buford, thats a great idea to join the rose society. I did join a local rose society this year. I seem to have been bitten by the rose bug badly and buying rose bushes like crazy. Ordered from roses unlimited and got roses from Palatine roses this spring.
For people in zone 5 and colder, palatine roses has a good selection, they are grown in Canada, weather similar to zone 5 ( got to know about them through the local rose society) They are grafted bare root roses, but their roots are very robust.
For some reason my roses in containers are doing better than the ones in the ground. Will post pictures shortly.
Madri.
I know what you mean, bart. I always strategically plant 1-2 trees in the southwest corner and 1-2 trees somewhere along the western property line. Those spots give the best shade from our boiling hot late-afternoon/August sun. The flowers and bushes are planted in between or under the trees (shade plants) or to the east of the trees (which cast long shadows after 4:00 in the afternoon).
Morning sun is a whole different ball-game--take advantage of all the morning sun you can get.
Kate
I grow a lot of Knockout roses (200+), and many of them(150+) are under four Spruce pine trees, I cut down the lower branches for the sunlight, and they're are doing very well, I water them once a day during the hot and dry summer days (above 75ðF/24ðC). The hottest day here is under 90ðF/32ðC. They're wonderful landscaping roses, fill your gardens with colors, so my old garden roses can just take their time with no hurry....... :-)
This post was edited by Summerseve on Mon, Jun 9, 14 at 0:01
It looks splendid! I use soaker hoses too. I have a couple of beds that I have no way of running drip to and it's a little too pricey for me anyway so I did the soaker hoses instead. The roses do respond wonderfully to having a steady supply of water. I think in another recent thread someone else said the same thing. The most important ingredient seems to be water!
The blooms that were on it at the store were probably set in cooler conditions or in a greenhouse. That's why they were larger. Now that it's getting hotter where you are the blooms will naturally be smaller in size. The heat is probably also why the edges look a little burnt. Roses love sunshine but are not fond of high heat and will burn.
Without seeing a picture of the leaf damage I can't say what is eating them. Try blasting the undersides of the leaves with a hard spray of water and see if that helps. The yellow leaves at the bottom could just be old leaves that have served their purpose and are no longer feeding the plant so they die off and the plant sheds them.
Keep it well watered and when it starts to get very hot find a way to shade it. Even a lawn chair over it to keep some of the sun off will help.
If there is new growth you can go ahead and fertilize it but be careful. You don't want to burn it further. You can use any good balanced fertilizer, dry or liquid, organic or not, but maybe just start it out at half strength. Be sure to follow all other directs carefully. Water the rose before fertilizing and then again afterwards. Water helps the plant take up the nutrients. Do not fertilize if temperatures are above 80 degrees. Do it early in the morning or in the evening when the sun is less strong.
Roses are amazingly resilient and want to grow so most of all fret less and enjoy more!
As Seil said, this is probably transplant shock involving stronger sunlight and maybe disturbance of the roots. All you need to do is keep it watered but not saturated. In moderately warm weather, I water transplants thoroughly every three days. Fertilizing makes it harder for struggling plants to take up water.
Date: 06-09-2014
Problems: I think Sunshine Daydream may be getting Blackspot. The picture shows a few yellowed leaves with spots. So far, they only appear on the lower portion of the rose bush, and are really close to the ground. I have also seen some yellow leaves on Fourth of July, Julia Child, and Roxy. But that may simply be natural aging of the leaves, some they only appear on the lowest portion of the rose bush, and well hidden by the leaves above.
But so far, Bolero, Dick Clark, and Knockout stay completely clean. But they don't have much leaves on the bottom to speak of, because of pruning and transplanting.
I don't see any yellow leaves on the Lady of Shalott.
In the past few days, temperature has been from 50's to 80's, with humidity in the range of 50% to almost 90%.
I love 'Sunshine Daydream'. Pretty in bud as well as opened. Lovely aged color too. I've heard yellow roses are the most susceptible color to blackspot. I'd be willing to spray with this one.
But 'Lady of Shalott' absolutely knocks me out. Incredible beauty that I finally saw in person this year.