22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
We had a rough winter across the U.S. If you read through past posts here you will find many many experienced rose growers lost roses over the winter. Many of us also had to cut back our roses far more than they are normally cut back due to dieback of the canes. I am guessing your landscaper noticed this was needed as well. I agree with the above posters. Patience, and stop fertilizing for now. Keep it watered, and mulch it if you can. I wouldn't fertilize it until it has had its first flush of flowers. It takes a rose a bit to recover, especially when it has to be cut down so much as the rose gains its energy through its leaves and it has less at the present time. If you would like you could post a picture so we can take a peek and see if there are any additional concerns.
There is a couple recent threads on this same subject.
That is (sawfly) rose slug damage cambel...
click below:
Here is a link that might be useful: Rose Slug thread
I just use the bamboo garden stakes. Find one the proper height for what you need. You don't want some giant unsightly stick out the top of the rose. Hold the branch up to the position you want it in and place the stake in the ground accordingly and twist tie the cane to it. Don't make the twist tie too tight though or you can damage the cane. I have to stake things all the time around here. It's never seemed to harm the roses.
The reason is, they have been in cold storage since November and are losing vitality. The mass marketers usually put on sales in June for this reason. Some of the plants will do OK, some will never break dormancy, and the odds get worse as the month progresses. Pots in semi-shade sounds like a good idea if you have hot, dry summers. Or mound the canes, or spray them with Wilt-pruf.
I second the wilt-pruf idea,
I've planted bare roots as late as July and had them survive. Not intentionally. I bought some large potted roses from HD on clearance and when I took them out of the pots all the dirt fell off. I doubt they had been in their pots for more than a week before being put out for sale. They were too inexpensive to bother returning them.
I cut off almost all the top growth, drenched the soil and mounded mulch on them for the first few weeks.
After a little research I am pretty sure what I have are paper wasps, they are a little longer and more slender than some photos of yellow jackets, and they don't really seem to be too aggressive, I tried photographing one that kept flying around and around my potted golden celebration (my rose with the most leaf damage) it was very obviously checking the undersides of leaves & it payed me no attention at all. It was kind of neat to see this in action, these bugs are obviously pretty intelligent and seem to remember finding the larvae in that area before. BUT don't get me wrong, even if this type of wasp is less aggressive than actual yellow jackets I am still terrified of these little critters. Especially after researching them and reading a few of those horror stories out there. I just hope I never happen upon these guys' nest, I don't see it anywhere on my porch or my yard, so hopefully it's in my neighbor's yard!
Michaelg, when you say yellow jackets usually don't do that until October, do you mean that they usually don't show their faces until that late in the year, or that they seem to be more aggressive around that period of time?
As I understand, the yellow jacket workers will not survive winter, so they become randomly aggressive in the fall, by way of teaching other species not to mess with yellow jackets. They are present all summer, with numbers increasing over the season. The nest is a burrow with an entrance 2-3" diameter in well drained soil, preferably on a bank or behind a retaining wall but sometimes in turf. They furiously defend the area near the nest.
Mud-daubing wasps are generally harmless, and paper wasps will sting only if antagonized.
Thanks, Kippy!
Welltraveled, they were dead as door nails. I have already removed all the potted ones and none of them had any white feeder roots left on them. Some of them pulled right out like there were no roots left at all.
The ones in the ground are still there because I'm not going to play Russian Roulette with them until after my show. I had to cut most everything to the ground (the exception was Reine des Violettes) and all of the others are growing very well and even setting buds now. So I'm sure those are dead too. After my show I'll dig them up and move some around and replant.
Patience rewarded in a different thread.
Hint: If it's good in 5, then it should be guaranteed in 6.
Red and Pink from the_morden_man -
Here is a link that might be useful: Climbing rose for arbor in Zone 5???
This post was edited by sandandsun on Thu, Jun 5, 14 at 18:22
I have three grafted climbing Eden just planted this year and they are the best perform rose in my humid garden. The flowers are beautiful and stay on for a long time. If I have a big garden I would love to plan more Eden rose.
On the other hand, I have two climbing America at their second year and they don't perform very well. It is possible that the Eden bare root roses I bought from Regans have a good start with the thick best looking canes and were planted in an area with more sun. Here are the pictures of my Eden roses.
I grow both, and from the angle it is hard to tell, but I'd vote WBY over OTB. Wild Blue Yonder has larger, more ruffled blooms with a lighter mauve center on a tall, vase shaped bush. OTB blooms start out bright purple with the yellow base and fade to a soft mauve with white base. OTB is a large shrub form, and mine is nearly thornless.
Here are bush shots of both of mine:
Wild Blue Yonder
Outta the Blue
Look for an ice melter with only calcium chloride. Sodium salts are harmful to plants, more so in gardens with heavy soils and low rainfall. Chlorides are not helpful, but all brands I have seen have chloride. There is no sign of salt poisoning in the images, however.
I am still confused by the reddish veins, but yellowing of the new growth without distortion of growth patterns is usually iron deficiency. It can be caused by pH over 7 or cold, wet soil. Excessive phosphate fertilizer can contribute.
It is not unusual for some plants to be chlorotic and others not. Multiflora rootstock and own-roots of some varieties have more trouble garnering iron than Dr. Huey rootstock. There can be local variation in pH.
Could be Marmara leaf cambium miner causing the problem.
Sactorose website (http://www.sactorose.org/rosebug/irosepests.htm) has great photo of the leaves being affected by a leaf miner. See optional link below.
Here is a link that might be useful: