22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I think that the consensus is NOT to spray.
I've had midge before and I was advised to use something like your option #2 in the planting area for my roses.
The life cycle of the midge depends upon the pupa being able to survive and develop after dropping from the affected plants on to the ground below.
If you nuke (your concept) the ground your roses grow in, then you break the cycle (i.e. no more midge).
It worked well for me. I only had midge the third year of 10 years of growing roses.
I guess the recommendation of aegis may be as good as you will get here. Most of the gardeners on this forum are opposed to "nuking" plants with insecticides, though sometimes some feel they have to. But since most of us don't use insecticides, we often don't know much about them in terms of what "cures" what condition. We do know that they kill bees and earth worms, etc.--and we try to avoid that.
You do see Bayer mentioned as a spray on this forum by a number of gardeners, but they are talking about the fungicide (for blackspot), not the insecticide put out by Bayer.
Sorry I can't be more help. Good luck.
Kate
Well, first, there were two yellow miniatures sold as Golden
Sunblaze. If the tag has the code name on it (something like MEIcupag), it will let you know which of the two it might be. The first one sold under that name was Ralph Moore's Rise'n Shine. Meilland didn't have any minis of their own breeding when the miniature boom started, so they licensed other peoples' minis to be sold under their trade names. Once they had bred their own, they substituted them for the trade names. So, yours could be either rose.
In Zone 5b, both will be quite a bit smaller than they will in warmer, longer seasons, but I would think either could grow to about an 18" X 18" head on top of the 24" trunk. Perhaps if they aren't pruned hard each year and don't suffer significant winter damage or die back, they may grow larger. Congratulations on your bargain! Kim
Thanks for the info Kim!
The roses I got are from Monrovia (according to pot and label on the trees) and the name of them is Rosa x 'Meicupaq'.
Forgot to mention I bought large concrete planters 18" T x 21" D x 21" W and I will be storing them in my non insulated garage for the winters. I don't want to plant them in the ground and risk losing them after another harsh winter.
This post was edited by Cal_00 on Tue, Sep 2, 14 at 0:09
Seil, my 1st Randy Scott (3 yrs. old) didn't survive the harsh winter. It had thrived and was a big producer. My 2nd one was a weaker plant than the 1st and survived the winter. Both would always have BS issues and I do spray. I got Dona Martin last year and she did great for a 1st yr. bush, made it through winter. The bush is a good producer with little BS. Dona Martin and Randy Scott are great roses. Has anyone else had similar results?
You need to wait until the roses are completely dormant and there isn't a chance that it will warm back up again. I don't do mine until December most years now. Last year did catch us off guard but we just went out and did it in the cold and snow anyway. Better that than putting it on too soon. If it's too warm it will cause mold and canker to grow on them.
Roses are sort of longterm investments. What you do early in the season will show later on, even the next few years. You can safely add compost and water now, but wait for cooler weather to fertilze. When spring comes mix some organic fertilizer in a good radius around the plant, three feet or so for larger roses. The more mulch you add the more nitrogen will be drawn out of the soil and spent to brake it down. Then adding a bit of fertilzier becomes a must. I don't know for your area or climate, but twice a year for solid organic fertilzer is a must for reblooming roses when you have a long growing season.
Best of luck :- )
This post was edited by taoseeker on Sat, Aug 30, 14 at 17:03
It could be any HT rose. They all grow differently. I have some that get 6 feet tall and only a foot wide like a column and others like to grow sideways instead of up. Veterans' Honor is always tall and narrow but my Hot Romance is never more than 2 feet tall but it can get 4 feet wide. Each variety has it's own growth habit and without knowing what varieties you have we can't say whether this growth you are experiencing is normal or not. If you want you can prune it back to shape but if it wants it may just grow right back!
I have had several roses that appeared to have crown gall. The growth would look like cauliflower or brain. Early March I dug up Over the Moon and Grande Amore (side by side) that had crown gall visible at ground level. These roses were several years old, Dr. Huey and own root, and different vendors. I think it's just in my soil and when opportunity knocks, it will appear. Over the Moon never was vigorous, but Grande Amore always was.
I had a few leaves like that, too. It's hard not to panic, thinking is it the early, early stage of RRD that hasn't been documented? Sometimes I'll pull the leaves off. Maybe it's environmental or another insect or spider? I am glad you posted this question and I would like a definitive answer instead of my speculation.
That is interesting Jay.
The problem with standards, is the tall "trunk" that can not stand the cold and is the Dr Huey part. But start a new thread on protecting them and bet some one can tell you how they have had success....being in SoCal, I am jealous of some of those colder weather roses, but am really amazed at how much work some people need to do to keep their roses alive. You know how much they love their plants!
I am a bit of a fanatic with my tree roses. The grafted roses have great difficulty surviving a NORMAL zone five winter in the elements, as the graft freezes
. I have about ten in large pots that are rolled in after 3 hard frosts. I have two, Black Cherry and April in Paris that have survived in a very protected spot outside. Some of the tree roses are tall bushes that have been trimmed to a central chosen branch and cultivated to flower from the top. Much like a topiary hydrangea, hibiscus, etc. that way the root supply is underground and protected. Reagan has a wonderful inventory.
I would add mulch, water when the soil is almost dry (use 50% more water per watering than usual in sandy soils) and do a soil test to check for salt toxicity (too much salt) and mineral defficiencies. Then add organic compost at the recommended levels per your soil test result.
This post was edited by luis_pr on Tue, Sep 2, 14 at 8:43
Never apply insecticide unless a particular pest that has serious consequences has been identified. You are stressing the plants unnecessarily with chemicals that can burn leaves. The symptom of Sevin poisoning would be bronzing and dead brown spots on the leaves. However, I doubt that is the problem.
Let me repeat my point that, if you plant Western-grown roses in Florida sand, they will decline after 2-3 years from root-knot nematodes. If you dig such a plant for inspection, the roots will be sparse and lumpy, Choose Florida-grown roses on nematode-resistant Fortuniana rootstock.
If that is not the problem, it is probably insufficient water or nutrition. In sandy soil during summer, pants need water every three days and over an inch (about 6 gallons) per week.
I strongly disagree with the advice not to fertilize in summer. When I gardened in Central Florida, we fed roses every 4-6 weeks year around. Malcolm Manners is a professor of horticulture in Lakeland and a world expert on roses. He feeds twice as much in summer as in winter because the rainy season leaches nutrients from the sandy soil. He uses Osmocote-for-Florida every 3 months plus organic ferts and lime.
Let me ask again if the yellowish leaves have green veins.
You should get a soil test through the county extension agent.