22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
I gave New Dawn climbing rose to a gardening buddy to plant with her climbing red rose. I had seen a picture of this combo with the viticella clematis 'Etiole Violette' (purple) and it was gorgeous. Not in person. We were both very disappointed. The foliage of this viticella clematis was so profuse it eclipsed both of the strong growing climbers.
I recommend the Boulevard Collection clematis by Evison. They grow 4ft. to 8 ft. depending upon cultivar. And bloom repeatedly! I have the 4ft. 'Cezanne' which is a pastel blue-lav. (not pinky like some pictures) and has a gorgeous satiny quality. At pruning time they are cut down to 10-12inches. Very unfussy. And these all are suitable to pot culture as well so you can 'design' before you plant.
Are you wanting pastel, med. or dark pink roses?
Here is a link that might be useful: Evison Boulevard collection
Water.
Easiest solution. Every morning go out and spritz your leaves.
Powdery mildew needs dry leaves in order to survive.
If you do this from the start you won't have to deal with pm ever.
With an already infected plant, it won't cure the pm. But it will stop it from spreading.
Water.
Easiest solution. Every morning go out and spritz your leaves.
Powdery mildew needs dry leaves in order to survive.
If you do this from the start you won't have to deal with pm ever.
With an already infected plant, it won't cure the pm. But it will stop it from spreading.
Not sure about growing the Cardinal in that climate and having it bloom. Cardinal Richleieu is a gallica where it is NOT as important for it to get a lot of hibernation time to bloom. On the bright side it is very lightly armed with prickles. In my climate it can grow to five or six feet tall but it bends way over while blooming because of the weight of blooms.
I haven't grown it, but Renae has the reputation of being a good rose that is less winter hardy than most climbers. If you are in eastern zone 7, this year's unusually hard winter would have damaged the canes. Black canes are probably dead, others may be injured internally. By now you should have vigorous new shoots coming off every healthy cane and setting flower buds. Instead I think I'm seeing a lot of blind growth--shoots that stopped growing without making a flower bud. Look for any small flower buds at the tips. You can mark blind shoots because the top leaf has matured. On a growing shoot, the top leaves are small, crinkled, and a different color, or there is a flower bud.
Blind shoots occur because they were injured by an untimely freeze, or because the underlying cane was injured back in the dead of winter. The plant just needs to be pruned back. Roses can recover from being pruned all the way down, as I had to do this spring. Prune to healthy white center pith.
Red spots are probably cercospora or spot anthracnose (fungal diseases, but not a big deal).
Sorry to be so long-winded!
Best,
Michael
Thank you so much, I didn't see your response until today.
I'm in the Pacific NW and we are in such a funny location we are either zone 7 or 8b, depending on the direction of the wind, LOL!
We had a mild winter but I still did as you suggested and pruned the branches back. I also found a fertilizer/fungal treatment and dose it with that.
Thanks again for your advice.
I have not seen crown gall go systemic, but Ann may be right. Usually aerial galls are found at old pruning sites where the bacteria entered through wounds, but these are all along the stem. They are probably shedding bacteria onto the soil beneath.
The rose might carry on for a long time. I guess I would wait until the flush is over and prune out all the infected stems on my side, sterilizing the pruners after every cut with a bactericide. Maybe do this every year. There is a product called Galltroll, but I am not familiar with it.
Thanks to both of you for your replies, I am a novice gardener at best and not very knowledgeable. It's disheartening to hear but what I expected.
The rose has not bloomed yet (that picture is from a few years ago), which is typical based on my experience with it. It does have many buds tho that will probably burst within the next few weeks. So I should wait until its done blooming to prune?
I bought a brand new pair of shears. I will disinfect both the old and the new from now on, but the old will only be used on this bush just to be extra safe.
I'll let my neighbor know as well. I plan to prune back his growth, I know he won't mind. While I doubt he would ever remove the rose unless it were on its last legs, he has a significant bonsai collection and several other roses which I would hate to see suffer if he did not know to take precautions.
I did see something about the Galltroll, but I couldn't find much information about it, and whether I could even purchase it or that it would be helpful for an already infected rose - but I am going to try to look into it further.
Thanks again for all your help.
Dr. Huey is the most common rootstock variety. See link.
Nick, take a look at my post above to see if it is clear to you, and ask questions if it isn't. A grafted plant consists of two different varieties physically stuck together above and below. The rootstock can survive after the scion dies. Or sometimes the rootstock sends up shoots while the scion is still alive. These can crowd out the scion variety.
Here is a link that might be useful: Dr. Huey
No. Suckers are simply rootstock, and rootstock plants do bloom.
They just don't bloom like the rose you purchased. And MOST rootstocks bloom only once a year, spring-or-summer.
Dr. Huey is the most common U.S. rootstock, and it is, as noted, a dark burgundy-red once-blooming climber, which has fungal disease problems in most areas.
Although roses are not winter-killed here, I still prefer roses growing on their own roots. They cannot "sucker."
Could be these are once-blooming roses that you are frustrating by pruning severely in the fall. Once-bloomers bloom in late spring on laterals produced by canes that have been through a winter. Most of them should not be pruned severely and never in the fall. (Actually rose people do not do ANY major pruning in the fall on any type of rose.)
If your roses used to be hybrid teas (florist-type) and have been neglected, the tops may have been killed by winter and the rootstock has taken over. The rootstock would be a dark red once-bloomer called 'Dr. Huey'. It has glossy dark foliage that is reddish when young. The canes grow out vigorously but do not set flower buds in their first season. They will bloom the following spring.
Where are you? (approximately). Water is the most important thing, but what kind of rain do they get already? For example, where I live in CA in a normal year (which we haven't had for 3 years), it rains 40 inches, but only Nov thru Feb, with the other 8 months being totally dry. So, we irrigate our gardens for those 8 months (at least those of us who have roses).
Does it rain every week or month where you live? How much?
Also, how cold does it get in the winter? Snow? For how many months?
If you can give us just some basic info, someone on here will be able to give you good advice.
Jackie
Please tell me my 3 year old will look like yours! Mine is surrounded by mostly Austin's. the runners seem to shoot out in every direction, but they have not yet affected the roses. This is early spring so u cannot tell, but there is a New Dawn that happily coexists with this tree. I know the standards are a lot easier to control. Your vine is beautiful.
Hmmm, looking closely at the original posters foliage, you're quite right. My perfume delights leaves are different, very matte. Also my Perfume Delight doesn't keep it's color, it fades... a lot. I still love it for sheer vigor though. :)
Hmmm. The fragrance is medium to my smeller -- but then I have Austins. I'm really on the fence becuz it does look like Perfume Delight, has large dark green matte leaves and red thorns. Very vigorous. But it also really looks like Pink Peace. . .counted the petals 52. . .when I go to HMF and look at the photos, it resembles Pink Peace more.