22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
This is an interesting subject. I have always thought that you were to fertilize at the drip line. Osmocote does not go too far in my garden, but I toss it in from the drip line yet not close to the main canes.
I also purchase cheaper fertilizers to use since I have so many roses. Yet I realize that most of you have more roses than I do. I think in the next couple of weeks we should fertilize or forget it for this year.
Sammy
Osmocote is a very mild and efficient fertilizer, but can be a bit on the expensive side if you have a large garden I think.The major advantage is even release of nutrients through the coating of those tiny pearls. The benefit is great for plants in pots and anuals where you can mix the fertilizer in the soil and replace the soil next year. I know nurseries prefer this stuff mostly because then they don't have to worry about anything other than water.
I don't use it as much as I used too, I still might for potted summer flowers though, but not for roses and perennials in the ground. I get noticeably healthier plants when I use different organic amendments and fertilizers. I use regular composted cowmanure, well composted bark and wood chips, and dry seaweed meal. I have to buy most of it in bags because my garden is too small to produce enough on its' own, but it still comes out fairly well prize wise compared to osmocote and the more advanced artificial fertilzers. I really like the seaweed stuff (!) Once in spring I might add pelleted chicken fertilizer, or I use some type of other organic stuff with at least as much potassium as nitrogen. In summer when the roses are starting their first flush I apply a second round of less smelly organic stuff.
For plants in the ground compost and organic amendments are much more important than loads of phosphorous. In the soil super phosfate will bind to different substances and over the years it builds up. It doesn't stay water soluble that long. For roses and perennials to be long lived and healthy we need the soil to be healthy and active too. When organic stuff is added regularly (once or twice a year) it makes sure there are plenty of earth worms and microlife to work the soil and keep nutrients available to the plants. This is at least how I have approached the subject after total failure with a large rose- and flowerbed I had years ago. I can almost promise healthier and more longlived roses when switching to organic fertilzers. I would however not recommed a lot of chicken based stuff, it is very high in nitrogen and too low in potassium to be used on its' own. I only use it in spring, but it depens on the type of soil you have how much or often you can use. Low nutrient soils can benefit from more frequent applications of it a season or three. If you can get the sort of well composted chicken manure that doesn't smell at all (looks more like soil) it has much lower nitrogen to kalium ratio than the pelleted stuff. Roses use a lot of energy to set flowerbuds, at least the reblooming varieties, and they need a lot of potassium. When we use composted manure and organic stuff regularly there tend to be plenty of phosphorous with out any more effort. Then you don't need super phosphate or osmocote. Seaweed adds more trace elements than practically any fertilizer on the marked.
I post this because I love roses and gardening, and I love reading posts on this forum even if it is a long time since I lived in San Francisco (I live in a much colder place now). Still, my experience is that organic stuff makes it much easier to have success with roses.
:- )
This post was edited by taoseeker on Tue, Aug 26, 14 at 10:59
Pretty petals I love seeing praying mantis too they are amazing hunters. I use to run a greenhouse and would always bring in a couple of egg sacks in and by mid winter I would have lots of little mantis all over the place eating the bad guys. I do get upset with them when they sit in my Buddlia and chow down on the butterflies that visit the bush. By the end of the summer there is a beautiful mulch of butterfly wings at the base of the shrub. I have heard they can even catch a small hummingbird but have never seen that happen, thank goodness. They appear to be territorial because I see the same ones in the same place day after day. I cannot imagine what that guy was doing on the deck maybe catching some rays. I like to let them walk up my arm kinda creepy but cool. Someone told me they bite but again thankfully I have never experienced that either.
I agree with Seil. Of the two MISTER LINCOLN is the "truer" red. The petals remind me of crushed red velvet. As a rule all the classic fragrant reds will "blue" (i.e. take on purple tones) as the blooms age. For ML this usually happens when the bloom is fully open. I actually don't mind the transformation as the burgundy petals contrast beautifully with the golden stamens in the center.
As for fragrance, to my sniffer ML has one of the best, if not THE best, Damask scents. It isn't just strongely scented, it is INTENSELY fragrant at all stages of the bloom development. Mister Lincoln was my father's favorite rose and he grew it for years until his death. Whenever I smell a red rose it is ML that I'm comparing it to.
One word of advice. Mister Lincoln is VERY vigorous cultivar. You'll need to prune it down hard after it booms to keep it in bounds and to encourage repeat bloom.
Since it was only one cane, I assume that one can immediately rule out the type of herbicide damage described by arkroselady . If it is herbicide caused I would expect that a root picked up some herbicide from the soil.
Kippy-the-Hippy's observation about the excess thorns seems to be the key observation. Using a magnifying glass and looking for mites is recommended by some "experts".
My information is given below:
http://home.roadrunner.com/~kuska/rose_rosette_disease_virus.htm
Here is a link that might be useful: link for above
It is hard to tell if any of the hips were from the mutant branch. If so, some hybridizers may be interested in trying to germinate the seeds. If future flowers do form on the mutant branch, some hybridizers may be interested in using the pollen.
The article below is in Russian, but an English summary is give.
A regular Google search using the search terms albino and plant turns up some interesting background reading.
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=albino+plant
Here is a link that might be useful: link for Russian scientific article above
This post was edited by henry_kuska on Mon, Aug 25, 14 at 19:50
For those who don't want to read on-- Many synthetic chemicals, including a number of pesticides, are probable "endocrine disruptors" that, typically, mimic female hormones or counteract male hormones. These, along with actual female hormones that are in our rivers downstream from cities (the consequence of using birth control pills), have the potential to keep developing male young from being fully masculinized. Probable evidence of these effects has been found in fish and frogs, which are particularly exposed owing to their spawning and developing in the water.
The paper Henry linked investigated ways that the conazole-type fungicides could disrupt hormones at the cellular level. They found that tebuconazole is likely an effective disruptor. Tebuconazole is the ingredient in Bayer Disease Control for Roses, Flowers, and Shrubs and some Bayer combo products. Women who are or might become pregnant should try to limit their exposure to endocrine disruptors.
I'm not sure how much shade you are talking...most roses like at least 6 hrs of sun, but some can handle 4 hrs...in your heat maybe less. I tried to grow drift roses in the dappled shade of Sycamores, but had to move them to full sun due to poor blooming performance. I replaced them with Gruss an Aachen and have had very good luck with those. They bloom in flushes (about once a month for me) with scattered blooms in between. Others that bloom decently for me with much less sun than recommended are Eutin and Marmalade Skies. Bonica is reportedly very shade tolerant, but I don't have any experience with that one. David Austin roses normally prefer morning sun only or dappled all day sun in high heat areas...some can be monsters in warmer climates, though, so you would need to ask which varieties stay small in your area. Also, if you are in a humid climate, keep in mind roses are much more prone to blackspot and other fungal issues in shadier spots.
PS- It's hard to take a picture of the length of the bed as the house starts to get in the way after the big hydrangea. I only have a 50 mm lens for the camera which is great for super close glamour shots and tricky with distance. There is a small magnolia ('Henry Hicks') on the other side of the hydrangea, some variegated hosta, azaleas and a row of massive rhododendrons.
I have other roses but those are the only two in this section. I didn't photograph the back third of the bed as it's still empty. It narrows so I'm thinking I'd like to grow a rambler on the fence if the neighbors are ok with it. I LOVE Banksia Lutea and 'Crepuscle' but I know they're not really supposed to be hardy here. I'm still thinking about trying one of them anyway.
This post was edited by Gabrielsyme on Sun, Aug 24, 14 at 14:23
I love the softer palette too but jumped at anything when I first started growing roses. I suppose my taste have changed but I still love the brighter ones too but usually cut my softer shades first to bring inside. Please keep sharing pics. Gardens and children!! Judy
I live in Middle Tennessee. When you drive here there are signs on the Interstates that say "Welcome to the Blackspot Capital of the World." (It says that in very small type under something about a music capital, so you might have missed it.) Any way in my no-spray-because-I'm-too-lazy-garden the old tea roses are the best BS resistant performers that I have.
The modern roses I have that can match their stellar performance are Annie Laurie McDowell, Ivor's Rose, Marianne and Belinda's Dream. All are cleaner than the Knockout I had.
FYI the old teas I grow are: Duchess de Brabant, Mme Antoine Mari, Mrs. Dudley Cross, Mons Tillier, Safrano and Mrs. B R Cant.
Hope this helps.
This post was edited by subk3 on Sat, Aug 23, 14 at 15:50
In my garden here in the humid Smokies I have 1 HT that stays 99% clean all summer long. Remember Me. I don't spray from mid May until late August and this HT stays clean and full of foliage from top to bottom. Another HT that has surprised me by staying at least 75% clean is Louise Estes. Almost all of my other HT's loose most of their foliage by late July. Most of my OGR's and David Austins stay at least 75% clean all summer long.
When I had our Mister Lincoln in the ground we got about Approx. 22+ blooms off him per growing season.
I transplanted him back into a large container in April of this year. So far Mister Lincoln has had only 7 blooms this growing season.
But I think he will do better next year...
Our Mister Lincoln hardly ever blooms late in the year as it does not like the cooler weather...
This post was edited by jim1961 on Sat, Aug 23, 14 at 14:34
Henry, I won't get to the ag library to read the article for several days. It is interesting and sad.
That they call for immediate quarantine could have serious repercussions (and we have to wonder why no one did this fifteen years ago).
Did they say what time of the year (temp conditions) they examined the plants for the vector?
Ann this is a "Accepted for publication" reference. I do not know when the actual issue will come out or whether there will be more information than is presented above. Your best bet may be to contact one of the authors. In the past I have found the University of Florida authors very easy to talk to. I would also expect that anyone connected with a federal lab would also be approachable.