22,795 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
It is hard to tell if any of the hips were from the mutant branch. If so, some hybridizers may be interested in trying to germinate the seeds. If future flowers do form on the mutant branch, some hybridizers may be interested in using the pollen.
The article below is in Russian, but an English summary is give.
A regular Google search using the search terms albino and plant turns up some interesting background reading.
https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=albino+plant
Here is a link that might be useful: link for Russian scientific article above
This post was edited by henry_kuska on Mon, Aug 25, 14 at 19:50
For those who don't want to read on-- Many synthetic chemicals, including a number of pesticides, are probable "endocrine disruptors" that, typically, mimic female hormones or counteract male hormones. These, along with actual female hormones that are in our rivers downstream from cities (the consequence of using birth control pills), have the potential to keep developing male young from being fully masculinized. Probable evidence of these effects has been found in fish and frogs, which are particularly exposed owing to their spawning and developing in the water.
The paper Henry linked investigated ways that the conazole-type fungicides could disrupt hormones at the cellular level. They found that tebuconazole is likely an effective disruptor. Tebuconazole is the ingredient in Bayer Disease Control for Roses, Flowers, and Shrubs and some Bayer combo products. Women who are or might become pregnant should try to limit their exposure to endocrine disruptors.
I'm not sure how much shade you are talking...most roses like at least 6 hrs of sun, but some can handle 4 hrs...in your heat maybe less. I tried to grow drift roses in the dappled shade of Sycamores, but had to move them to full sun due to poor blooming performance. I replaced them with Gruss an Aachen and have had very good luck with those. They bloom in flushes (about once a month for me) with scattered blooms in between. Others that bloom decently for me with much less sun than recommended are Eutin and Marmalade Skies. Bonica is reportedly very shade tolerant, but I don't have any experience with that one. David Austin roses normally prefer morning sun only or dappled all day sun in high heat areas...some can be monsters in warmer climates, though, so you would need to ask which varieties stay small in your area. Also, if you are in a humid climate, keep in mind roses are much more prone to blackspot and other fungal issues in shadier spots.
PS- It's hard to take a picture of the length of the bed as the house starts to get in the way after the big hydrangea. I only have a 50 mm lens for the camera which is great for super close glamour shots and tricky with distance. There is a small magnolia ('Henry Hicks') on the other side of the hydrangea, some variegated hosta, azaleas and a row of massive rhododendrons.
I have other roses but those are the only two in this section. I didn't photograph the back third of the bed as it's still empty. It narrows so I'm thinking I'd like to grow a rambler on the fence if the neighbors are ok with it. I LOVE Banksia Lutea and 'Crepuscle' but I know they're not really supposed to be hardy here. I'm still thinking about trying one of them anyway.
This post was edited by Gabrielsyme on Sun, Aug 24, 14 at 14:23
I love the softer palette too but jumped at anything when I first started growing roses. I suppose my taste have changed but I still love the brighter ones too but usually cut my softer shades first to bring inside. Please keep sharing pics. Gardens and children!! Judy
I live in Middle Tennessee. When you drive here there are signs on the Interstates that say "Welcome to the Blackspot Capital of the World." (It says that in very small type under something about a music capital, so you might have missed it.) Any way in my no-spray-because-I'm-too-lazy-garden the old tea roses are the best BS resistant performers that I have.
The modern roses I have that can match their stellar performance are Annie Laurie McDowell, Ivor's Rose, Marianne and Belinda's Dream. All are cleaner than the Knockout I had.
FYI the old teas I grow are: Duchess de Brabant, Mme Antoine Mari, Mrs. Dudley Cross, Mons Tillier, Safrano and Mrs. B R Cant.
Hope this helps.
This post was edited by subk3 on Sat, Aug 23, 14 at 15:50
In my garden here in the humid Smokies I have 1 HT that stays 99% clean all summer long. Remember Me. I don't spray from mid May until late August and this HT stays clean and full of foliage from top to bottom. Another HT that has surprised me by staying at least 75% clean is Louise Estes. Almost all of my other HT's loose most of their foliage by late July. Most of my OGR's and David Austins stay at least 75% clean all summer long.
When I had our Mister Lincoln in the ground we got about Approx. 22+ blooms off him per growing season.
I transplanted him back into a large container in April of this year. So far Mister Lincoln has had only 7 blooms this growing season.
But I think he will do better next year...
Our Mister Lincoln hardly ever blooms late in the year as it does not like the cooler weather...
This post was edited by jim1961 on Sat, Aug 23, 14 at 14:34
I've cut it back some and watered every day it hasn't rained. The rose is still very stringy, but MUCH happier.
It never occurred to me to water it. How stupid is that? I've only ever had boxwood and trees outside and I've never watered them.. If I had tried to grow a plant indoors in a pot I probably would've drowned it.
Will update.
CHARLES DE GAULLE is indeed a wonderful rose. For me, it was promising, but hardly worth the effort as an own-root plant. I've found it to perform very well, however, on Dr Huey. It's one that I'd really like to try on Fortuniana.
LILA VIDRI is another one that I've found to be superior as a grafted plant. I think it's classified as an HT, but in my experience it performs more like a Floribunda,
ROYAL AMETHYST is a workhorse rose for me. It had a broad, rather than tall, growth habit, and blooms from the base to the top with good repeat even in my heat. The individual blooms, though, are unremarkable here. This is one that gives lots of color, but, IMO, is best viewed from a distance.
Mrs. B.R Cant, Archduke Charles, Cramoisi Superior are old roses that bloom all summer. MBRC is the size of a VW, however! Easy Does It, Carefree Beauty, First Impression, all fairly new shrub roses are all excellent bloomers with impeccable foliage health. Look up 1st Impression. The blooms are as pretty in my garden as the pictures! Non stop in my garden since April!
I purchased the Bayer Garden Disease Control for Roses, but it is granules I sprinkle on the ground .
I don't have a Lowes, Home Depot, etc nearby (within 50miles) so I went to Walmart and this is the only product they had. Would this work? There are approximately 4 bushes and they grew together making a large group, very attractive.
I have a planter with Martha Washington geraniums nearby that have the black spot on them now.
Do you think these granules will work for me?
Since it was only one cane, I assume that one can immediately rule out the type of herbicide damage described by arkroselady . If it is herbicide caused I would expect that a root picked up some herbicide from the soil.
Kippy-the-Hippy's observation about the excess thorns seems to be the key observation. Using a magnifying glass and looking for mites is recommended by some "experts".
My information is given below:
http://home.roadrunner.com/~kuska/rose_rosette_disease_virus.htm
Here is a link that might be useful: link for above
There are people who track RRD, I know Ann Peck does. It's unfortunate, but it looks like you found it early so maybe prevented it from spreading to other roses.