22,153 Garden Web Discussions | Roses
Here is documentation that even within each virus type, there can be differences which cause a specific form to be more or less potent than another form.
The following link leads to the full copy of a reviewed, published, scientific 2011 paper that studied this point for three PNRSV strains that have been found to infect roses.
Title: "Biological and molecular characterization of Prunus necrotic ringspot virus isolates from three rose cultivars"
"The PNRSV-R1 isolate seemed to be the most pathogenic. It produced more severe symptoms on Cucurbitaceae plants than PNRSV-R2 or PNRSV-R3."
Please note that each statement made by the authors had to be approved by the reviewers and the editor.
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Variations in structure of PNRSV that infect other plants also have been reported.
http://apsjournals.apsnet.org/doi/abs/10.1094/PHYTO.1999.89.11.991
Here is a link that might be useful: link for rose study above
Multiflora does best for me here. Very vigorous. Yes, the laterals have bloomed on the canes. I believe that photo is one of the long canes. The clusters on the bush have yet to bloom... I can't believe how well the flowers have held up in rain and in a really hot position.
Yes, you just gotta be patient....
Iris, that is catmint. It's all over my yard. Cures a million ills!
Susan
No, I wouldn't. Dis-budding is meant to help the plant grow it's roots quicker. If these are established plants you already have the root ball. It's just the canes that died back. I had to cut all of mine to the ground too and they're coming back nicely. Some have buds and I'm going to let them bloom.
Seil - I am so happy that you are finally able to enjoy some sunshine and warmth and your roses, I know it was a miserable winter for you! M - I wish you could send some rain to me and Kate! I think Kate would agree, we would be glad to send some sunshine and warmer weather your way! My roses haven't been hurt by the drought yet, but they could be if things don't turn around. It would be so nice if we could all just have the right balance of everything, that's not realistic though. Jim, thank you!
The_bustopher - I know, it is frustrating. We've had hit and miss showers for awhile now, until recently they were totally missing my area. I'm not sure how far behind we are, but I would guess it's probably a similar amount to what yours is.
This post was edited by Sara-Ann on Mon, May 26, 14 at 23:21
all of California and a large chunk of Texas are in severe drought or worse.
Add to all of the above that the majority of the Buck roses were introduced by Roses of Yesterday and Today, a nursery well known for using a contract grower who infamously used infected Dr. Huey root stock to produce everything. Years before the original nursery ceased operations (the current version is owned and operated by descendants of the last original owner/operator, and has little to do with the original other than in name), I visited them and toured their growing grounds. There were hundreds of three gallon, paper pulp potted roses and symptoms in every row of plants. I have personal experience with an Earth Song which was given to the gentleman from whom I obtained it by Dr. Buck himself, at Iowa State. It is virused. The man from whom I obtained it never budded it. He received it infected. So, if you hope to find any of the Buck roses (except, perhaps the later ones introduced in the nineties and later, but no guaranty) uninfected, it's pretty much going to have to be one which has been put through the treatment program somewhere to eliminate RMV. Like the majority of the AARS roses, which came out through Armstrong Roses (and were infected by them), the Bucks came to market infected. I haven't grown one yet which didn't show symptoms in my climate. Kim
Thank you all for the replies and info. I originally learned of Buck roses on these forums and they seemed well suited for my area as I am in Iowa. At this point, I will keep my eye on it and see whether or not it has reduced vigor and decide what to do from there. I also asked local growers about experiences growing an infected Buck roses here.
I on the other hand, found direct sunlight to be the driver in out zone 6a garden. Its probably due to the weather. We don't have the long growing season of south California and even most of May was cloudy with drizzle. So the true sunny days are precious.
This post was edited by mikeber on Mon, May 26, 14 at 22:01
I'm inland SF bay area. During the summer months, we alternate between cool weather with the marine layer and frying with 100+ weather. The heat makes thing happen too fast once the HT start their growth spurt. Ideally, the heat get things going and it will cool off so I can enjoy the blooms. We don't get as long a growing season as Scal
There could be any number of reasons for that funky growth but I don't think it's RRD. You got them a couple of weeks ago and planted them right away. We had some frost warnings just a couple of weeks ago, did you too? That looks like cold damage to new growth in my opinion.
As far as the thorns are concerned, some roses ARE thornier than others. I don't see anything like the massive thorniness of RRD. You wouldn't be able to see much of any green cane at all between the thrones on RRD canes.
You need to relax and be patient and let this poor thing warm up and really start growing.
Thanks for the responses,
They did not come potted - just in plastic bags to protect the roots.
I don't believe it could be cold damage as we haven't gotten below 40 degrees in some time. I was actually a little concerned because the usual ship time is in April and I didn't get them until the 6th of May. First week I had them the temps were in the 60s 70s which is rather warm for planting roses according to my reading?
Does flushing the soil mean shoving a hose in the ground and running it for a while? Sorry if that's a silly question.
Funny,
I've always thought fall bloom is our best. Spring is always a fight against weeds and weather.
Fall bloom comes more slowly, bloom sizes can be huge without heavy fertilizer (just cooler days) and better color because the sun's rays aren't as intense. Also no hail storms. No late Easter Freeze. No really hungry dear and their fauns. Slower caterpillars.
I guess Fall for the win.
Actually, I've used rebar to stabilize the timbers and they have held up quite well in our Mississippi red clay! You just use a hole bit to drill the holes on each log. Because the logs are not exactly the same length, it's not a bad idea to drill them while stacked, leaving an imprint on the next log. Pound in the rebar (make sure to have the utility companies out to mark the lines in your yard) and then cover the stack with a 2x4 to keep the rain out of the holes and rusting the rebar. I hope this helps!
Has anyone ever used cinder blocks for a raised bed? I am considering making some beds out of these - they can be painted and there are caps that can be used on the tops - there is a cement glue that can hold them together, plus pour concrete in some of the holes and set with 2' pieces of rebar so they should last for years. I don't want to construct any more beds with landscape timbers - though they work well for some years parts of mine rot and must be replaced. Plus, someone told me the chemical used to treat them was not as strong as it used to be [saving money for the company] so they rot quicker. Any thoughts from anyone who has used the cinder blocks?
Judith